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Studs in stub axles come loose.


EF Ian

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I'm running a set of very new (less than 200 miles) chequered Flag stub axles.  

 

I was getting my wheels balanced today due to a vibration I assumed to be a wheel balance issue While taking the rear wheels off I noticed that two of my studs were loose, one was so loose I could push it right out and both the stud and the housing are damaged on this one.

 

 

Anyone else had problems?

 

Do the studs need tack welded in place?

 

I regularly check my nuts for tightness so I haven't been running with loose nuts or anything. 

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Could be that you have the wrong diameter studs.  Use a a caliper and measure the diameter of each stud and compare to the diameter of the correct studs. I have the Chequered Flag stub axles and installed the studs with a press - they are tight.

 

 

Example stud:  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-610-320/applications/make/nissan/model/240z

Edited by Miles
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I am using the studs that came already installed in them so they must be the correct ones.

 

That is an assumption.  The previous owner (PO) may have installed the wrong studs or screwed up the installation. Many horror stories here about mistakes made by the  POs of these old cars.

 

Contact Chequered Flag and see if they have ever had this problem or might offer a solution.

 

But simply measuring the studs and installing new studs of the correct size should fix the problem unless the holes have become augered out. 

 

I have also had wheel studs loosen up when removing the lug nuts.  Replacing the studs fixed the problem every time.  Should work unless the holes have been screwed up. Even with that scenario there are still solutions.

 

If you order new studs note that they come in different lengths.

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Here's CFJ's description, just for reference.  Maybe they didn't get pressed in fully. 

 

Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z Chromoly Stub Axles 
  Billet 4340 heat treated, cryogenically treated, and double tempered Stub Axles!
 Available in typical Datsun/Nissan 4 lug (4x4.5) or 5 lug (5x4.5)
 Includes one pair of billet stub axles and one set of M12x1.5 ARP studs WITH the ARP studs pressed in.
 They are a direct replacement  you must use the large 27 spline 280 flange or any of the adapters below.

 

http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html

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Knurled part is damaged now and I reckon the hole has been too damaged too much to press in a new one.

 

 

 

That is an assumption.  The previous owner (PO) may have installed the wrong studs or screwed up the installation. Many horror stories here about mistakes made by the  POs of these old cars.

Well, it is an assumption, but I would hope the manufacturer would install the correct studs.

 

All studs were fully pressed in and tight when I received the stubs.

 

 

 

 

Have contacted Chequered Flag, to get one in time I need to pay for it, fit it and then send my faulty one back, just hope they will give me a refund because money is tight at the moment. 

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PM me if you want a part number for an ARP 12x1.5 stud that you can drill/rheem out to. I should have it in my book. You can get them from Summit and be back on the road quicker if you just go to something with a larger knurl. When I press in studs, they are always a little crooked and I have to tweak the alignment with a rubber mallet before a wheel will bolt up. Do they pull in straighter when you use the pull-in method??

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Just a thought - is it possible that you used a short lug nut on a thin wheel and the stud bottomed out inside?  Then you spun the stud when you thought you were tightening it?  Hard to imagine how a properly torqued lug nut, of four or five also properly torqued, could allow the stud to move enough to wallow out its hole.

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