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Racing with a 3.2L NA Engine


gnosez

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Does anyone have any experience running a Rebello 3.2L on a road course track (sessions lasting 30-60 minutes)?

 

Wondering about:

 

1) the flywheel/clutch combo (flex plate and puck style or other?)

2) oil pan type, accusump, cooler (temps with any of these)

3) carb settings

4) timing

5) overall engine life

 

I've just put in my street engine into the 240 race car so here's what I have right now:

 

1) AZ Z car race flywheel and clutch (11 lb flywheel) - used this on the L28 and L24 race engine - very nice

2) AZ Z 6 qt oil pan (haven't plumbed in the oil cooler or accusump yet) - I'm going by 260 degrees max as per Dave's recommendation

3) Mikuni 44mm w/mains set at 175

4) 34 degrees (might drop a degree)

 

Thanks in advance for your responses....

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On my 3L is ran a Quatermaster 5.5" carbon/carbon double disk clutch and a Nissan Comp 8qt. oil pan.  Oil cooler was a water/oil Niagara unit built into the radiator.   Timing was controlled by the Motec and the initial setting was straight up (0 advance).  After 25 hours we pulled the rod bearings and they looked fine.  Put in new ones and set the next inspection at 100 hours.  Sold the car and engine before then.

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I've run a Rebello 3.0L the last year. 

The first motor failed after about 7 hours use (threw a rod).  Cause determined to be... not worth fighting about.

Rebello helped resolve the motor in a reasonable fashion.

 

Arizona Zcar pan with a 2qt Accusump.  I am rigging a light so I can watch when (if?) the Accusump ever even contributes during a race.

275/35-15 R6 Hoosiers.  If the Accusump never fires I will remove it next year.

 

Ran the Arizona Zcar "race" clutch and it failed after about 15 hours racing.  One of the locating springs for the pressure plate snapped.

Dave at Arizona Zcar did nothing to remedy the situation.   Bought a Heavy Duty ACT clutch and immediately noticed the pressure plate springs were WAY beefier that the Arizona Zcar "race" clutch.   I avoided a super-light clutch since I need brute reliability more than the last bit of performance.

 

On my Rebello motor I found it was critical to set the timing on a dyno as when we used too much advance there was a distinct drop in power.  For very high revs you need a good amount of initial advance and less at the top which can only be maximized with a fancy RMP dependent system.

 

The motor is a blast. 

Tj

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No diesel crank in the 3.0L I assume and therefore no issue with a possible rotational problem with a heavier flywheel.

 

I've got over 40 race hrs on the AZ flywheel and clutch with no issues.

 

The 3.2 has less than 15 hrs of street use.

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We run both Centerforce and ACT with no problems.

 

Duragg, you might want to reconsider the Accusump even if it's not feeding. I lost an oil pump at Road Atlanta and did 3 laps with low to no oil pressure to finish race. No damage on tear down. Plus I like looking down at the direct pressure gauge when my dash gauge/sender looks funny.

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My wife dropped extended towing off AAA under the rationale of "we never use it", I'm not paying $100 a year for something we never use.

 

I found that out, upon calling AAA after my turbo "made a noise" on the last run of the day at MSA AutoX.

 

End result of trying to make it home babying it the 10 miles from race venue to my house?

 

Well more than the insurance cost that year, what the full price tow was quoted as, and what the insurance was for several prior years...

 

 

Accusump is insurance, not a bandaid for poor design. That's how I view it.

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My 3L uses an offset ground L28 crank

 

The Accusump I have has a 2 qt capacity. You set oil level in the engine with the Accusump fully charged (full of oil). If it gets triggered it dumps another 2 qts in the engine resulting in pretty high oil level.

 

It exists primarily to augment oil if during accelerations the sump pickup goes momentarily dry which my oil pressure light to me happened with a stock pan.

 

With the AzZcar pan I dont *think* it runs dry and so the Accusump is just a bunch of weight.

 

I weigh 2440 lbs with me in the car and zero fuel but my classing rules say I can be 2400 so it might be on the chopping block. :)

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I never got a 2psi low indication when my turbo went...

 

Cornering on extended turns of a specific direction can make it happen as well, not just straight line acceleration.

 

40 lbs is 4 HP. Do a tune up and use good plug wires. There is your downpayment on the insurance policy in your passenger's footwell!

 

You wanna lose 40 pounds? Go on a diet. Nobody here I've seen looks like Dith Pran on "The Killing Fields"...

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....

 

The Accusump I have has a 2 qt capacity. You set oil level in the engine with the Accusump fully charged (full of oil). If it gets triggered it dumps another 2 qts in the engine resulting in pretty high oil level.

 

....

 

It should fill back up as soon as your oil pressure is above the spring/air pressure you set the accusump to, so high oil level is only temporary. Like a giant capacitor for oil, used to damp out the oil pressure fluctuations. If you set the accusump to 60PSI, any time your main galley or wherever you have it hooked to, drops below 60PSI, it will start to dump until its empty or until the pressure picks back up above 60PSI.

 

I'm not really sure why I felt the need to post, I'm pretty sure you already knew this along with the others....

 

Trying to avoid homework. I'm sorry. :ph34r:

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