240devilz Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Hi guys I have 72 240z with jtr conversion 350 chevy mild cam, around 375 lbs torque with t5 borgwarner. My z is a street car and don't want to weld my diff. Currently my diff is a open r200 3.54 . I want to go lsd and I've already use the search button plenty of times and I just want to be sure what I'm doing and buying. First of all, do you guys think it is worth to swap a subaru r180 and buying stub from wolfcreek to get it fit instead of my r200? Will it handle the torque from my v8? I came accross what i think is a pretty good deal so it is tempting, its suppose to be a r180 lsd 3.9 out of a v8 subaru sti 2004 for 280$ from what the guy told me. Here's the differential Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 A V8 subaru STI?? If that's really what this diff came from, then wouldn't it be fine for your V8 240? Even if it were, you'd still have to spend a fair bit more on that diff plus the stub axles than if you bought an OBX LSD for your existing R200....true? Furthermore, I wouldn't recommend buying that diff until you've had a chance to pop the cover and verify the LSD and overall condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zguitar71 Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Too much torque. If the subie had a v8, it's torque was split between 2 diffs so it would be fine in that application. The torque in your car is all for one diff. Stay with the r200. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 (edited) Not sure what kind of usage is intended by the OP, but the four-pinion R180s used by Subaru for LSD applications are pretty stout. I'm putting down 330 ft/lbs of torque with my SBC, and my old open R180 lasted three years of racing (track, not strip) fine. I now have a newer Torsen R180 in it and it's working great as well. Furthermore, we're assuming that the donor vehicle retained the front differential, which may not have been the case if it was transplanted with a V8....in which case all the tq + hp was directed to the rear diff. Just sayin'.... I completely agree that the R200 will withstand much more abuse (and will probably be a cheaper overall solution for this individual) but I wanted to make sure he had as much info as possible before making a decision. P.S. I haven't seen many V8 Subarus, and the couple I have seen are all-out race builds.....I'd be interested to know a little bit more about the donor car, just out of curiosity. Edited September 18, 2014 by jhm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240devilz Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 (edited) A V8 subaru STI?? If that's really what this diff came from, then wouldn't it be fine for your V8 240? Even if it were, you'd still have to spend a fair bit more on that diff plus the stub axles than if you bought an OBX LSD for your existing R200....true? Furthermore, I wouldn't recommend buying that diff until you've had a chance to pop the cover and verify the LSD and overall condition. V8 is for version 8 subaru , its supposed to be a 2004 . I heard that the k stamp subaru lsd are the stronger 4 pinion available but im not sure. Edited September 18, 2014 by 240devilz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240devilz Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 Too much torque. If the subie had a v8, it's torque was split between 2 diffs so it would be fine in that application. The torque in your car is all for one diff. Stay with the r200. How much torque the sti diff its supposed to handle? Don't find to much info on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240devilz Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 (edited) I read about the obx but its seems that is the cheapest lsd unit on the market so the quality goes on right? I have seen people say that these unit get wrongly assembled more often, so I'm not sure about this one, unless someone has a good tips or link that explain how to check it and fix it. Edited September 18, 2014 by 240devilz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 300 ft. lbs. is about the limit for an R180 driven hard. That requires a good 4 pinion LSD and frequent fluid changes. Hard dragstrip style launches are risky at over 250 ft. lbs. of torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240devilz Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 300 ft. lbs. is about the limit for an R180 driven hard. That requires a good 4 pinion LSD and frequent fluid changes. Hard dragstrip style launches are risky at over 250 ft. lbs. of torque. Thanks for the advice, so I'll keep my r200 since it already handle my power. What about the obx? What you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Thanks for the advice, so I'll keep my r200 since it already handle my power. What about the obx? What you think? You sure you used the search feature? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/57834-obx-vs-quaife-with-pixors/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240devilz Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 I do more more burn out than launch. I already switch for 280z stub axle for more security. I never put the z on track or drag, but kindly hard on it on the street more often. I just want to decipate the power equally cause it dont lock the 2 wheels anytime and I'm affraid of spider gear failure. Since is it a street car for cruisin too, I don't want to weld it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240devilz Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 You sure you used the search feature? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/57834-obx-vs-quaife-with-pixors/ Thanks that is what i was looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 (edited) Ahhhh...."Version 8" vs "V8"....my bad on the Subaru nomenclature. Yes, the OBX unit has been discussed a bunch here. In talking to the guys I know that have purchased one recently, it appears that their workmanship and overall quality has improved quite a bit from the earlier units. I don't know anyone that has been unhappy with theirs, especially considering the $400 purchase price. Here's another lengthy thread regarding OBX inspection and installation....some duplicative info with the other thread referenced, but it never hurts to have too much info. Check out the "Drivetrain FAQs" for even more useful info. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/88099-obx-differential-inspection-and-installation/ Edited September 18, 2014 by jhm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240devilz Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 Well i'll save money cause I don't think the obx is worth it and I don't want to pay 400$ to tear it apart and take a chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240devilz Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 Ahhhh...."Version 8" vs "V8"....my bad on the Subaru nomenclature. Yes, the OBX unit has been discussed a bunch here. In talking to the guys I know that have purchased one recently, it appears that their workmanship and overall quality has improved quite a bit from the earlier units. I don't know anyone that has been unhappy with theirs, especially considering the $400 purchase price. Here's another lengthy thread regarding OBX inspection and installation....some duplicative info with the other thread referenced, but it never hurts to have too much info. Check out the "Drivetrain FAQs" for even more useful info. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/88099-obx-differential-inspection-and-installation/ h Thanks i'll check this out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 ive heard that the STI rear diffs are good to about 450 lb ft or so, so you should be alright. it swaps out really easy too, i have a torsen diff out of an 08 sti in my Z with the wolf creek stubs and all i had to do was swap the pinion flange, pop the stubs in and swap the mustache studs and it bolted right in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malibud Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Just be careful "Popping them in" mine did not go in with a hammer so I used a press on one side and broke the clip that holds the stub axel..I wish I took it to the local diff repair guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240devilz Posted September 19, 2014 Author Share Posted September 19, 2014 ive heard that the STI rear diffs are good to about 450 lb ft or so, so you should be alright. it swaps out really easy too, i have a torsen diff out of an 08 sti in my Z with the wolf creek stubs and all i had to do was swap the pinion flange, pop the stubs in and swap the mustache studs and it bolted right in 450 lbs of torque on a awd car or front/rear car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger280zx Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Check what 510 guys do with subbie diffs, r160 is even smaller, 2wd, a bit lighter than a z but not as heavy as an subbie. 300-400 depending on who you ask. Keeping good cool fluid in there is crucial. Don't forget some of those wrx's have a 1.1:1 center diff, meaning the differentials actually get even more torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 Well... I disagree with the idea that an R180 is reliable and can safely handle more then the torque numbers I listed above. I road raced for years and my racing L6 made 275 ft. lbs. in a 2,100 lb. car with 275 width Hoosiers. Running a Quaife ATB, a welded diff, and a OSG Super Lock. In all cases the diff got too hot to touch after a 30 minute session even with a 5 row Mocal cooler. Fluid tests showed that even Redline 75W/-140 was losing is additive package after a weekend of use. There is a metallurgical limit to what a 7" ring gear can handle. I also know that Ken Block's STi had its rear diff swapped out after every event (and sometimes between event sessions) with a new unit from Subaru. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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