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Welding around por15


Silverone858

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My z is an incomplete project my friend started, since the car is torn down as far as it is I'm going to go a little deeper than he did. 

My friend dealt with the rust on this car with a wire wheel and Por15, the entire interior floor, engine bay and front wheel wells. 

I want to cut out and repair a few areas of rust, stitch weld, complete the frame rails to the rear and roll cage. 

I'm wondering what I can do to get rid of the por15. 

-soda blasting - looks like eastwood has a 100# blaster, and from what I read the 80/20 mix says it will "The soda media will remove urethane, epoxies, enamels and lacquer top coats along with virtually every primer and filler for automotive and marine use" 

- media blast - What media is best? How can I keep from warping the metal? 

-Wire wheel - I don't think I can get into every nook and cranny. 

-Por15 remover - terrible stuff I hear, can I throw the used chemicals in the trash when I've stripped the por15? 

Thanks in advance for your help! 

Edited by Silverone858
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Soda blasting is the least (safest) aggressive. If that doesn't work (kinda doubt it will) try plastic.

 

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200321271_200321271?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Abrasive%20%2B%20Sand%20Blasters-_-Abrasive%20Blasting%20Accessories-_-155686&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=155686&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=155686&gclid=CM2Os4vE_8ECFezm7Aod6DsASw

 

Warping is not a issue with soda blasting, plastic is relatively safe as well. With plastic and anything more aggresive like sand, silicon carbide, etc use the lowest amount of air pressure in your blaster that will get the job done. Ideally you don't want to use sand EVER, it'll warp a panel very easily and it causes something called "hydrogen embrittlement"....basiclly sand and Silicon carbide will work harden sheet steel.

 

If you have access to a oxy-acetylene torch and the area to be stripped has had anything that could be damaged removed you could try torching it and see how that does.  Use a slightly acetylene rich flame and fan the heat around. Be careful to not get an area too hot as you can warp the metal. If you do it right you can heat it and it will release and be easily scraped and wire wheeled away  If you are not comfortable using a torch then I would suggest you stick with plastic media.

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Be very careful with using mig gas with high heat with brake cleaner= mustard gas. Not sure about with brake fluid.

Hmmm mustard gas sounds great, this is exactly why I posted these questions here, I'm very hopeful that the soda blasting With the 80/20 mix will do it tho I like the torch idea too. Tomorrow is Monday Itthink I'll try to call the Por15 people and see what they suggest. 

Please any more ideas keep them coming! 

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Hmmm mustard gas sounds great, this is exactly why I posted these questions here, I'm very hopeful that the soda blasting With the 80/20 mix will do it tho I like the torch idea too. Tomorrow is Monday Itthink I'll try to call the Por15 people and see what they suggest. 

Please any more ideas keep them coming! 

 

 

I don't have a clue if brake fluid will strip it, but I wouldn't worry about any gas side effects if you remove the brake fluid before you weld.  Use a  Automotive Grade  wax and grease remover like "PPG DX330",  a cheaper alternative would be "Klean-Strip Prep-All",  and in a pinch you could also use lacquer thinner. Wipe the area down then use a clean prep towel, or paper towels to re-wipe the area you just wiped. That will remove any trace of the brake fluid. As long as you don't have any puddles of brake fluid anywhere you would have no reason to worry about "mustard gas".

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I was using the mig a long time ago and had brake cleaner sitting on the cart when an old welder friend of my dad came in. He saw it and told me about it. I looked on the can and sure enough there was a warning for it. I went home and googled it and found this:

 

CHLORINATED HYDROCARBON SOLVENTS

 

Various chlorinated hydrocarbons are used in degreasing or other cleaning operations. The vapors of these solvents are a concern in welding and cutting because the heat and ultraviolet radiation from the arc will decompose the vapors and form highly toxic and irritating phosgene gas. (See Phosgene.)

 

PHOSGENE

 

Phosgene is formed by decomposition of chlorinated hydrocarbon solvents by ultraviolet radiation. It reacts with moisture in the lungs to produce hydrogen chloride, which in turn destroys lung tissue. For this reason, any use of chlorinated solvents should be well away from welding operations or any operation in which ultraviolet radiation or intense heat is generated.

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Don't use brake cleaner on anything that will be heated or welded.  Acetone is safer and cheaper then brake cleaner.  You have to physically and chemically remove the POR15 from any surface you intend to weld.

 

We get old Porsches in the shop that have POR15'd floor pans and suspension pans and its cheaper for the customer if we cut out and replace the entire POR15'd paneland replace it with a new then to chip, wire wheel, scrape, and clean the areas to be repaired.

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Thanks Chris.  Yes we do some pretty amazing stuff with old Porsches.  We also have two S30s in the shop right now.  One is a full restoration on a 11/69 build and the other is a 2016 Peking to Paris Endurance Rally car for a father and son team.

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