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Brakes won't work! Help please!!


Scapy

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Hey everyone, so i recently got my 280z with a l28et running.... Thing drives perfectly!!! I cant get my freaking brakes to work though, so ive been driving it around the neighborhood with the handbrake lol.... So I tried bleeding, that didn't work... then I rebuilt master cylinder and put dot3 and bled again, that didn't work.... So I picked up a new master cylinder and put dot4 and bled again and went around and tightened every fitting on the brake system, that didn't work.... What else can be going wrong? There is no leaking throughout brake lines but when pump the pedal hard you can hear some air or bubbles or something near the master cylinder area (I think thats normal though). The reservoirs seem to leak just a tad around the base where they are secured to master cylinder, but i figured that that couldn't have much of an effect (gunna pick up new ones soon). Also when I was bleeding my rears (one at a time), the brakes got to feeling normal, but then when I tightened the little bleeding bolt thing and pumped the pedal again, it was back to its light feeling... When driving around if I press the brake down all the way while using my handbrake the rears skid, but it feels like the fronts are barely resisting. Any advice would be very very appreciated. Thank you in advance! <3

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Are they stock or "upgraded"?

 

If you pump the pedal do they start to work?  Air in the system.

 

Does the check brakes light come on?  Imbalance between front and back pressures.

 

Watch the reservoirs when someone presses the pedal, or use a mirror.  If large quantities of fluid leave and come back there is air in the system.

 

Bleed screws must be at the top of the calipers.

 

Adjust the play in the mechanical parts.

 

Try to be more descriptive than "don't work".

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This is my new S30 brake bleeding procedure:

1.  Bleed the Master Cylinder

   Two clear hoses from the bleed nipples on the side of the M/C looped back into the reserviors, held with a clip.  Pump the brakes until the air bubbles are gone.  Tighten them back up and remove the tubes.

2.  Bleed the front calipers.

    Start with the closest (left).  (You shouldn't need more than 3 or 4 pumps of the brake pedal to completely bleed any part of the circuit once the M/C is bled...)

3.  Bleed the rears.

    Start with the Right side, bleed the Left last (it's farthest away in terms of piping)

 

And ya, if it takes much more than 3-4 pumps at any of the wheels, you have another problem...

I do it by myself these days with a cheap little HF bleeder bottle that I set in a bucket in case it overflows.

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Go to the brake section and research:

 

  • Brake bleeding
  • Soft pedal
  • Bench bleeding master cylinder
  • Missing reaction disk
  • Adjustment of the master cylinder push rod.

There are many threads that deal with your exact problem.

 

Take notes and form a plan to diagnose the problem.

 

Make a check list and investigate each component of the brake system starting with the master cylinder e.g.,  did you bench bleed the master cylinder?

 

Many brake solutions can be found at ClassicZcars.

 

Google 240Z brake problems,  240Z bench bleed master cylinder

 

etc.

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