For the Nissan people.
I am installing an '05 VQ35DE into my '73 240 for which I have had for 15 years now. This project also includes all restoration work needed as well. This is the second rebuild and 3rd engine, this time being much more in depth. I have already replaced the floor boards and frame rails with sub connectors, full suspension, steering, and brake replacement among many other things. If it's on the car, it's been touched. I won't go into too much detail as there are others that have done so very nicely, however, I will point out what I have done differently.
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So I have researched and researched and reread everything I could find before starting this. Hell it took me 2 years just to decide what engine to swap into it (RB, LS, LQ, L99, etc). I ended up with the '05 engine, 6 speed, engine harness, ECU, accelerator pedal, clutch pedal box, clutch master, brake booster/ master cylinder, and driveshaft. All from the same car with 59k miles on it. And for those interested, this ran me about $2500 from a local salvage yard. I used McKinney Motorsports mounts, Hoke Performance (Austin) shifter relocation and modified stock fuel rails. Which by the way, the fuel rails look great, more info on HokePerformance.com or on FB.
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For those familiar with this swap, you probably already know which way I went for engine management according to the parts list, Zfever. Currently I am finishing up all fabrication on the car before taking everything back out to paint. So I will not get to the wiring and firing bit until January or February. As for the Mckinney Motorsports mounts, they work, but I have found that if you are installing this engine and trans into a 73, nothing fits easy. It is different from a 72 in the transmission tunnel and in my 73, the bracing is a U shape. In a 72, it is 2 braces, one on each side for the stock transmission mount to bolt to. I had to cut it out for the trans to go up all the way. And the K member...jeesh, I cut the hell out of it and boxed it in and used gussets. Also cut for the oil filter and oil pressure sender, both boxed in. You are limited by two things here when installing this into an S30, the firewall and the front crossmember. Then there is the hood, I have never had a stock hood on the car so I picked one up locally for 50 bucks. It too had to be modified to clear the intake manifold because of the mounts. I bought the car with a fiberglass cowl induction hood.
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I'll get better pictures later, but ultimately I'm happy with how it sits now. I added some plates to the floor where the transmission cross member bolts up. This reinforces the area and ties this into the frame rails. They are tacked now and will be fully welded when I remove the engine/trans.
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I bought Speedhut Revolution gauges and modified the stock housings so they fit like stock. There have been numerous write-ups on this so I won't go into detail but here is the mockup. I am using the GPS speedometer so that I do not have to fool with speed sensors or a turk system. The coolant temp is fitted in an adapter inline on the upper radiator hose while the sensor for the electric fan will be in the upper coolant tube at the block. The oil pressure sensor is in the stock location. I also have the speedhut fuel level sensor in a modified stock tank, more on this later as this is still in the works.
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I also have electric power steering. It's the kit from ZPowersteering.com. I bought one of the first NRG hub adapters for the S30 to adapt to their quick disconnect and steering wheel. AutoPower roll bar, 1 3/4" bar welded between the rear strut towers for the harness bar, Corbeau seats, dapper lighting projector headlights, oh and I've had Rota RBR 17x8.5 on the car for a few years as well as TTT camber plates, rear control arms, tension rods, GC coil overs (225/250), Tokico adjustable, ST rear sway, MSA front sway with plates. R200 with OBX helical limited slip carrier 3.9 gears, Blah blah the list goes on...as I said, if it's on the car, it's been touched.
But on que for purchase are the Driveshaft Shop axles and driveshaft, and some goodies from Z1.
Initially, I wanted to swap the pedal assemblies for the 350Z clutch and brake. However, the 350Z brake pedal assembly will not fit without lowering the booster and pedal because the top of the pedal assembly hits the cowl. I did manage to squeeze in the 350Z brake master cylinder and booster. I'm not sure if anyone has done this so here are some more details. This will NOT work with just any motor. For sure will not work with a carb'ed L series with stock linkage because the booster is in the way. I drilled the new bolt pattern for the booster and enlarged the opening a few mm. The 350Z booster is huge, it takes up a lot of space, including the stock clutch cylinder. It will NOT work with a stock clutch cylinder which brings me to the next part. I was able to fit the entire clutch pedal assembly from the 350Z. Since the booster covers the stock location, it is moved outward by a couple of inches. It is a very tight fit but with the way the pedal is bent, it works great. I reinforced the firewall with some plating so it doesn't flex as it is outside the stock reinforcement.
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I have the Aeromotive Phantom System that is all in one, bladder and pump. This is what I am currently working on, I am modifying the stock tank to fit this unit. Basically taking the tallest part of the tank, lowering a corner of it to fit the Aeromotive unit as the AN fittings on the top require this modification. Fuel is delivered through new aluminum 3/8" feed and return. Cool fuel is delivery straight to the rails via Y splitter, then run through the Aeromotive FPR. Soft lines are black nylon -6 an.
This is enough for now, let me know if you have any questions that I might be able to help with!