Leon Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Look at the front-most counterweight. If it says P3040, it's an L28. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 I have L28 cranks here that are all forged with the P3040 mark, L24 cranks are marked E3101 up until July 1973. L26 cranks from Aug 1973 up are marked P3000. The Diesel crank is marked V0790, IIRC. Nissan part numbers for each are, as best I have found, as follows: L20A, unknown date: 12200-E3000 <--Need to verify this, anyone know for *certain* L24 to July 1973: 12200-E3101 L26 from Aug 1973: 12200-P3000 L28, unknown date: 12200-P3040 LD28, unknown date: 12201-V0790 If anyone can fill in the dates and verify crank numbers and variations, please, feel free. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Project1 Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 (edited) Thanks for the info . I put the enging back together last night and it's in the car sitting on the motor mounts now. I will pull this motor again at some point to put on the 5 speed, P90, and Ms. I will look at the pics I too and see the other marks. I remember it was stamped Japan and had the datsun symbol like the Pistons did, but that's all I remember seeing. It probably be next weekend before I get time to work on the datsun again. Edited February 8, 2015 by Project1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Project1 Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 (edited) I have L28 cranks here that are all forged with the P3040 mark, L24 cranks are marked E3101 up until July 1973. L26 cranks from Aug 1973 up are marked P3000. The Diesel crank is marked V0790, IIRC. Nissan part numbers for each are, as best I have found, as follows: L20A, unknown date: 12200-E3000 <--Need to verify this, anyone know for *certain* L24 to July 1973: 12200-E3101, L26 from Aug 1973: 12200-P3000 L28, unknown date: 12200-P3040 LD28, unknown date: 12201-V0790 If anyone can fill in the dates and verify crank numbers and variations, please, feel free. I found this ... From this website http://www.rpmmachine.com/crankshaftkitsnissanrpm.html. ---2.6L 74-75 L26 P3040, engine #L26; 260Z ---2.8L 75-83 L28E P3040, engine #L28E; 280Z, 280ZX, 280ZX turbo They didn't have L20A but they L20B: ---2.0L 74-79 L20B U6040 510, 610, 620, 710, 200SX Also had this about the L24: ---2.4L 70-81 L24, Z24 E3141, E3142, engine #L24; 240Z ---2.4L 82-84 L24E W3140, engine #L24E; 810, Maxima w/1.770” Rods So a possible update to the list you made L20A, unknown date: 12200-E3000 <--Need to verify this, anyone know for *certain* L24 to July 1973: 12200-E3101,E3141, E3142 L26 from Aug 1973-75: 12200-P3000 L28 from Aug 1975-83: 12200-P3040 LD28, unknown date: 12201-V0790 Edited February 9, 2015 by Project1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Project1 Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 I was reading about using Honda FT-500 / XL-500 motorcycle pistons with L24 rods .... Sounds awesome. Really tempting build with a p90 shaved head. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97690-ft500-hi-comp-piston/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 My L24 crank reads E3141 and the L28 is P3040. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Project1 Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 My L24 crank reads E3141 and the L28 is P3040. Mere, I'm really tempted to pull the motor out again to check, however it is what it is and for now will be running of the stock ECU and everything else. I'll just check again soon when I do the head/ms/5speed. I'm deffentaly interested in the Honda ft500/L24 rod combo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Project1 Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 (edited) Didn't get to the mystery motor this week, however I did get to mess with the other n42 core I had. I made it about half way. So it's a stock n24 block and head. The crank in that block was marked p3040, not a mystery . I'm tempted to bring to to get bored and some flat tops, but for now I just used the best 6 pistons and rods I had. The timing chain isn't on. One more good day I should have this together. Also, I got the abarth exhaust in. I'm a big fan of their exhausts. But I was totally bummed because the exhaust pipe is 48mm or about 1.75" inside diameter. I was thinking I was going to run it for now and add a second one when I do the p90/MS. Any thoughts on that? I'll proably end up with a fuel well cell in the process. I could run a butterfly or a waste gate to the second 1.75" exhaust pipe so it opened at a higher rpm or whatever tuned correctly. Edited May 19, 2015 by Project1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Project1 Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 Got to work on the Z this week, I made some progress but ended in a stand still. Note to self ... Don't order a abarth exhaust for a datsun. The motor went in well and things are looking ok. I did put a hole in the header. The "new" header I got of ebay was a rusted out pos. so I'm just going to order a msa one and go from there. I will weld this one up and just sell it to someone local for really cheap. So waiting on a new header. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 Wow, sucks about that header, it's pretty low that someone would try to pass that off as new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Project1 Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 (edited) Wow, sucks about that header, it's pretty low that someone would try to pass that off as new.Right, :-/ ... I guess you win some/loose some. I do hope this motor runs ok, I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I just got them painted, wraped up and a flange with a bung for a wide band too ..gezzz. I got them for $200 so I guess you get what you pay for sometimes. They had the emission ports, but I just pluged them with some copper blots... But ..well ..you see ..merrr. Edited May 19, 2015 by Project1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 That header with the wrapping on it that is 'rusted' isn't the same one in the other photos with the AIR Injection fittings on it.I haven't seen a header with AIR on it since the 80's. Once they started those CARB EO program the supply stopped and they just started 'not to be use on highway vehicles' statements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Project1 Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 That header with the wrapping on it that is 'rusted' isn't the same one in the other photos with the AIR Injection fittings on it. I haven't seen a header with AIR on it since the 80's. Once they started those CARB EO program the supply stopped and they just started 'not to be use on highway vehicles' statements. It's the same header, I just painted and wraped it. I thought thoes were something for emissions? I honestly have never heard of air injection into the exhaust (or is it to inject exhaust air into something like an erg?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Did you remove the threaded tubes? it looks in the photo like they were removed.Yes, that is an OLD header, intended for up to a 74 Z-Car. There was a small pump on the left side of the engine that pumped air into the exhaust there to combust the unburned HC. It was quite effective, just one injector into the collector of that header would clean up a 71 with SU's properly adjusted to 83 Catalyzed SMOG Criteria. It started in 66 in California, and went on quite late in Domestic stuff...Frankly, if it's an EFI engine, you don't need them, you don't want them...you are better off getting something newer like you say--it will be better all around. For someone wanting to make a 'period correct' restomod it might have a place in someone's car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Project1 Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 Did you remove the threaded tubes? it looks in the photo like they were removed. Yes, that is an OLD header, intended for up to a 74 Z-Car. There was a small pump on the left side of the engine that pumped air into the exhaust there to combust the unburned HC. It was quite effective, just one injector into the collector of that header would clean up a 71 with SU's properly adjusted to 83 Catalyzed SMOG Criteria. It started in 66 in California, and went on quite late in Domestic stuff... Frankly, if it's an EFI engine, you don't need them, you don't want them...you are better off getting something newer like you say--it will be better all around. For someone wanting to make a 'period correct' restomod it might have a place in someone's car! Awesome, I did not know that. I was just going to plug the holes with a bolt and some hi heat rtv on the threads. I did remove it, just not intentionally ...it broke off and left that nice hole you can see in the pic. I am going to get some new headers for sure. I might run these just for a bit just for budget reasons. But I will probably put that extra motor n42 on craigslist with the header and exhaust and just sell everything for a fair price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 How do you plan to plug that gaping hole??? That's what I thought it looked like, BTW. Once the AIR tubes left the cast iron manifold and got put into headers, ripping them out when the thin tubular headers rusted away due to the heat was quite common. You just tossed them and got another set, along with a new AIR Tube set from Nissan (when they were still available!) I think I actually have one of those in my shed, AIR Gallery still attached for fear of the "tear out" from rushing it's removal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Project1 Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 How do you plan to plug that gaping hole??? That's what I thought it looked like, BTW. Once the AIR tubes left the cast iron manifold and got put into headers, ripping them out when the thin tubular headers rusted away due to the heat was quite common. You just tossed them and got another set, along with a new AIR Tube set from Nissan (when they were still available!) I think I actually have one of those in my shed, AIR Gallery still attached for fear of the "tear out" from rushing it's removal. Seriously, that thing broke off so easy..... Aka "vintage". I could weld a patch over it, however it maybe difficult to get it to an actual clean surface. I might be better off just using some jb weld or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Personally I'd trash the header...with that wrap...it's not long for the world! Hotspot burnthrough is right around the corner! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Project1 Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 Personally I'd trash the header...with that wrap...it's not long for the world! Hotspot burnthrough is right around the corner! I just couldn't help laugh when I read that ... Something too look foward too. I did patch a very small hole in the radiator as well. I have some unexpected financial obligations, so I am going to run them for a short bit, and as soon as I can the first thing on the list is a new header and radiator. ... ... ... $@%^ing hotsots. I'm cracking up and frowning at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Project1 Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 (edited) Got to work on the datsun today. The mystery motor is almost ready to crank. I just have to replace some fuel line, put together the vacume system, and do the ignition. The N42 is 98% done. Came out pretty good. I would have like to do some head work and some flat tops, but since it's an extra motor it's really not worh it and I'll probably never get my money back so I'll leave it for the next guy. Here's some pics of the N24. I'll take some pics this week of the other motor. I'll see if I can do a video to hear how the abarth sounds. There really isn't too much online ... Although it's a 1.75 rusty @$$ pipe, so I wouldn't recommend it. Edited May 19, 2015 by Project1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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