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l28et megasquirt running problems


s30kid

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The specs for the sensor are .040 or closer. I just took the car for a ride after adjusting the sensor forward, back, left to right until I got it centered on the number 6 tooth before the missing tooth. But the car runs worse now. Now the sync loss is happening around 3500 rpm. Also I see in my datalog that I got a voltage spike to about 21v, But nothing is fried in the wiring I think it was a glitch.

Ive attached a datalog file as well as a msq of my tune. 

New folder.rar

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Well yesterday I tore the 280z distributor apart and jb welded the mechanical advanse so that it doesnt work. I also pulled out the oil pump and reset the oil/distributor shaft so that the rotor would point to the number 1 cylinder on TDC. I then Reset the hall sensor and made sure that it was dead center. I got the car running and it was running great. The car would only loose sync at 5500 rpm under boost which was fine with me because my rev limiter is set to 5700. 

 

Well today I took the car out for a drive and I just so happen to be datalogging. The car was running the same as last night but when I ran it through 1st and 2nd it had sync loss around 4500 rpm. When the sync loss hit the car also had a very loud backfire. After that the sync loss was happening at 3500 rpm. 

 

Yesterday I checked the timing on the motor and it was about 7 degrees but in megasquirt it was set to 10 degrees. And Still, no matter what I set The Tooth #1 Angle(deg BTDC) to The timing will not Match up. 

 

Here is the datalog from today.

New folder.rar

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Have you read this thread? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106792-slop-in-the-distributor-drive/

I had similar issues with my car and sync loss, I tore the distributor apart and welded the advance, but at the same time, I set the distributor to point at number 1 at about 25 degrees advanced (my thought was I ran about 13 to 15 degrees at idle and 30+ at full throttle.) 

 

I would take a look and see if your distributor moved or is sloppy and let us know. 

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You want the leading edge of the rotor at the #1 terminal at max advance so around 36-40 degrees. That way the rotor is still close enough to the terminal during retard. The problem is the tiny cap that you have makes it easier to jump to the next terminal. The turbo dizzys are bigger and more forgiving. Also make sure your wires and plugs are in good condition. And make sure you're not using copper core wires.

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