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Help with my auto to manual swap


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I've been gearing up to swap my 5 speed in since I got my 240Z to Utah and I've got a couple of questions I can't seem to find definitive answers to. 

So, the backing plate between the engine and flywheel/trans, it IS different between the manual and auto right? I found one for a manual in a junkyard, and was working on getting it out but a friend of mine told me they were the same, but the internet says to swap them out... 

Second is the starter, the internet says they are both different and the same... I see different part numbers on Rockauto but how different are they? Will they work interchangeably? 

Thanks for any help I can get.

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Flywheels are the same between 4 and 5 speeds, typically, but automatics use what is commonly called a flex-plate.  You need an actual flywheel and clutch for a manual.  Not sure on the starter but they may be different for certain years.  If Rockauto has different part numbers, they're probably different.  The distance to the ring gear is probably different between the two.

 

Google "flex-plate" and "flywheel" and you'll see what you have and what you need.

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My mistake.  There do seem to be two (below).  I've never heard (or read) of anyone swapping that plate when doing the swap but may have missed it.  I wonder what would be different.  Maybe more clearance for the spacer on the automatic setup.  Automatic plate works for manual, but not vice-versa.

 

Part #21 here - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Engine280Z/CylinderBlock/tabid/1598/Default.aspx

 

Might be available - http://www.courtesyparts.com/plate-eng-p-329396.html

 

 

 

.

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I did this swap myself a few years back, 

YES the backing plates are different

YES the starters are different, However when I did my swap I used the manual starter, but it went bad so I switched back to my old starter, works fine I still use it today.

 

You will need a clutch master and slave cylinder, the steel line between the two, clutch disc, flywheel, throwout bearing, piolet bearing, pressure plate, clutch pedal and brake pedal. when I did my swap (factory auto) I looked under the dash and there was already a slot for the clutch pedal and a hole in the firewall to mount the slave cylinder, so I removed the auto brake pedal and inserted the clutch and brake pedals, removed the kick down switch on the gas pedal, cut the hole in the trans tunnel to fit the shifter because I was unable to get the car into first, third or fith, so I trimmed the tunnel. And everyting else mounted up just fine, you may need a new speedo gear to get the speedometer to read correctly and you will aslo need to figure out the wiring on the trans for the reverse light. I also believe you need to jumper the two wires for the neutral safety switch, where you cant start the car unless its in P or N, so just crimp, solder, twist tie those wires together so that you can start the car. Other then that it was a really simple swap. 
 

Good luck to you.

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The pedals are different between the 240 and the 260/280.  It has to do with spacing of the master cylinders (with the small booster in the very early Z's, the master cylinders were closer together.  They had to change pedal design when they started using a bigger brake booster...)  Just make sure you get the correct pedals.  The pedal box itself is the same between auto and manual, so only the pedals and their hardware need to be changed.

 

The aluminum plate ( "dust cover" ) between the block and transmission is definately different between manual and auto.  The plate is split on the auto to allow access to the flex plate and bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate.  Get the proper plate for the manual transmission.

 

Take the speedo pinion gear out of the auto trans and use it in your manual trans.  It should be the correct gear for your rear-end - unless you're replacing the differential also...

 

When you take the auto out and get the flexplate off, be sure to remove the spacer that's behind the flex plate before you try to mount a flywheel.  That's a good time to install you new pilot bushing as well.

 

With the "later" transmission, you may want to get a rubber shift lever boot and steel clamp down "ring" from a 260 / 280.  The very early Z's used a different trans and had a different hole and boot configuration in the trans tunnel.  You'll need to mimick the later trans tunnel hole and boot for your 5-speed.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi!

 

I wanted to drop you a note to give you some resources I use and to make some suggestions.

 

Flywheel, clutch assembly - install the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate from a 1983 280zx turbo.    The stock setup works much better than the 240z stock clutches due to the increased pressure plate force that comes stock and the increased disc radius (went from 225mm (240z) to 240mm.  This additional 0.6" radius helps tremendously do to leverage.  For more info, check out http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/index.htm 

 

 

For our car, we went to an ACT pressure plate and chose  ACT N013X HD.  IF your engine is not extremely hopped up, I bet (but do not have experience) that you can get away with purchasing a new flywheel and a stock rebuild kit from rock auto and save lots of cash.

I strongly suggest you do not purchase a centerforce design in my opinion the weights are a gimmick.

 

Transmission - This weekend we pulled the 5 speed transmission from our 240z and had it rebuilt (2nd gear synchro died).  For this, I went to www.drivetrain.com and purchased DTS-BK104WS which is a rebuild kit for our transmission which includes synchros.  The complete rebuild kit cost $135 plus shipping, what a deal!  The link I gave you above also has information about the transmission and rear end gear ratios.

 

 

That's all I have for now.  Back I 1987, my brother and I did the swap.  It was relatively straight forward.  Be sure you take out the speedometer gear from the old transmission and put it into the new transmission or your speedometer may be off.

 

Jim

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