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Swiss two-become-one 240Z Ground up restauration / JDM mods

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On 19.9.2017 at 10:50 PM, rturbo 930 said:

Looking good. But I can't help but find it a little funny (or a little scary) that a business in Switzerland has an English business name. Talk about foreign influence, lol.

Haha that's quite normal. Little switzerland is going international. :) Also i guess "Chäfig-buäb" would sound a little strange :P

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Glass beads are really just a different shape being round rather than rough like silica sand, less abrasive. It isn't the same as say "shot peening". In my experience, the dull appearance is normal. The beads do remove less material and are less abrasive, giving more of a matte finish almost a dull sheen. The actual sand depending on grit is similar in appearance but much more aggressive and rough in finish texture. Sand will remove more material and leave a rougher finish. Keep in mind as well that the "glass" beads break as they are used in the cabinet and are no longer round as does the sand which depending on the material of choice may become less aggressive or more as they break into smaller pieces. Silica sand loses its sharp edges and bite. Garnet, and other materials behave differently. All of this is assuming it was blasted in a cabinet where the material was used over and over. If done outside with one hit, things will behave more consistent as you only get the original material hitting your part. Usually the cabinet is used as media gets expensive if it's a one shot deal and also messy.

Your photos do look consistent with glass beads. You could roll that media in your fingers to see if some are round or if all of it is rough and jagged.

As a an example, I am building a custom lever action rifle and will use the glass beads in a cabinet to just texture an already clean aluminum receiver. Low air pressure and fine beads to get a light even matte finish without removing material is the goal.

On parts like yours if they have to focus on removing dirt, grease or paint you could end up with material removal in certain areas if part is raw and part painted, the raw part will lose some material while they are trying to get the painted part to let go. Beads are less abrasive but also slower and less aggressive at removing the junk while tending to leave a less rough matte finish. Beads will also tend to close up the surface a little like shot peening rather than open it up to better accept paint. Shot peening is more a of a hardness treatment rather than to clean. I don't know of any media except for maybe shot peening that would leave a part shiny from blasting. Shot peening is like thousands of tiny hammer hits.

I hope that helps and anyone with more extensive experience is more than welcome to clarify anything that I may be missing here. Sorry I got a little wordy there.

Your project is coming along and it's nice to see the progress and quality of work.

Dave

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thanks for the input. makes sense somehow. I contacted the blasting company again and let's see what they come up with.

As far as it goes i got some other replies in other forums, claiming that hydro/vapour/soda blasting is the thing to go when looking for the glossy OEM finish on raw aluminum. sounds promising but let's see what the current blaster replies and what solution i can come up with.

I'm not happy with the current finnish. although it would definitively work. it's just not what i was looking for..

 

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Posted (edited)

That looks normal to me for glass beading. Raw castings are usually shot blasted then machined. I found that putting parts in a vibratory finisher after blasting restores some of the luster. 

 I can fit my DOHC valve cover in my finisher. If you look closely you can see the difference. V3 is in the foreground and it has been shot blasted and then run in my vibratory finisher with burnishing media and liquid. V2 in the middle has only beed shot blasted. You can see a slight luster on V3.

20170810141258-7e818f41-me.jpg

Here are two parts I glass beaded.

20170707041056-f21a38ac-me.jpg

And here they are after vibratory finishing.

20170707041100-01e22bd7-me.jpg

 

There are many types of finishing media. Burnishing media is what gives the parts the luster. 

 

Derek

 

Edited by Derek

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I agree with Derek on what it seems you are after finish wise. Unless you coat the parts a vibratory polish/burnish is going to be the way to do. I would be careful with soda. I haven't used it but I have a good friend that is in high end paint for custom cars and he is adamant against it. Definitely more delicate at removal of rust and paint while not damaging the surface it can leave residue.

Have you considered a really high quality clear coat? The bead blasted parts won't stay that clean color and texture. Aluminum will corrode over the years unless it is somehow coated or anodized. You could also clear anodize which might be a good choice. I'm not sure how much corrosion resistance if any the vibratory media would provide and how much residue is left preventing an anodize or paint. With as much work as you have put into this project I would certainly want it to stay that way.

I am chemically stripping my car then blasting what that misses. Aluminum will be bead blasted for texture then probably clear coated or anodized to prevent corrosion. If I had access (meaning reasonably priced without having to send it out at full shop rate) to the Vibratory finish Derek is showing I would really consider that option. I have two blasters in my shop both a cabinet and pressure pot and a compressor large enough to run either all day long. I just can't justify paying for something I can do here. I don't mind the dull finish as long as it is clean and even and protected from corrosion.

The rifle project I mentioned is going to get a nickel boron plate after engraving trying to get as close to the stainless barrel as possible. That finish is outstanding at corrosion resistance and lubricity but is really expensive to have done. OK on small parts but would be obscene overkill for car part castings, at least for covers and housings.

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In my last post, i wrote about the fact that the transmission looked wrong after the "glass bead blasting". Many readers pointed out it seems to have been just sandblasted. I contacted the blasting company again and asked what happened. He excused himself a hundred times and told me that his guy somhow missunderstoud somthing and that it was only blasted. but not sand blasted as you thought, but blasted with "broken glass". this is softer and won't attack the surface of the Aluminum. It's less corrosive than regular silicat-sand used for blasting. At least that was good news. He promised me to immediately fix that. Today i was able to pick it up again:
P1190241-Kopie.jpg

They glass-bead blasted everything and the surface now looks and feels a lot smoother and got this slight "satin gloss" finish. just as it should be. The sense of Glass bead blasting is to improve the surface density of aluminium. Like that it's much stronger and will keep the appearance for a longer time when used unpainted in a car.
P1190244-Kopie.jpg

While it doesn't have the super-glossy OEM-like finish it's what i was aiming for. I got told for the glossy finish it should be soda/vapour/fluid blasted. But for me it's perfect as it is. it's not going to be a concours build anyway and it seems much fresher again. Also they clearcoated the cast-iron bits as promised, to protect it from corrosion:
P1190245-Kopie.jpg

This is how the gear selector looks after the protective tape was removed. Still needs a bit of cleaning though but looks perfect. just as i wanted it :)
P1190246-Kopie.jpg

Super happy with the result. and while it took me a few extra hours to bring it back again and pick it up. the good thing is they felt so sorry that the extra-work was for free. They only charged me for the first part of the work. which is awesome and came out on a budget :)

 

Edited by jdmjunkies.ch

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On 1.10.2017 at 7:26 PM, jpndave said:

I agree with Derek on what it seems you are after finish wise. Unless you coat the parts a vibratory polish/burnish is going to be the way to do. I would be careful with soda. I haven't used it but I have a good friend that is in high end paint for custom cars and he is adamant against it. Definitely more delicate at removal of rust and paint while not damaging the surface it can leave residue.

Have you considered a really high quality clear coat? The bead blasted parts won't stay that clean color and texture. Aluminum will corrode over the years unless it is somehow coated or anodized. You could also clear anodize which might be a good choice. I'm not sure how much corrosion resistance if any the vibratory media would provide and how much residue is left preventing an anodize or paint. With as much work as you have put into this project I would certainly want it to stay that way.

I am chemically stripping my car then blasting what that misses. Aluminum will be bead blasted for texture then probably clear coated or anodized to prevent corrosion. If I had access (meaning reasonably priced without having to send it out at full shop rate) to the Vibratory finish Derek is showing I would really consider that option. I have two blasters in my shop both a cabinet and pressure pot and a compressor large enough to run either all day long. I just can't justify paying for something I can do here. I don't mind the dull finish as long as it is clean and even and protected from corrosion.

The rifle project I mentioned is going to get a nickel boron plate after engraving trying to get as close to the stainless barrel as possible. That finish is outstanding at corrosion resistance and lubricity but is really expensive to have done. OK on small parts but would be obscene overkill for car part castings, at least for covers and housings.

that clear annodization is maybe a cool idea. have to think about it...

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Nothing big here. just spent two hours cleaning all the transmission parts after the glass bead blasting. Removed some leftovers from the masking tape and blew away all the leftovers from the blasting from all the small corners, etc. Since i forgot my cam at home you only get some crappy mobile-phone shots:
DSC_1696-Kopie.jpg
When done i started going through the small parts and decided i could clean them too. so the trusty green scotch-n-brite came in handy again to clean all the small pieces:
DSC_1697-Kopie.jpg
Then decided to make a little test-assembly with the new PU shifter bushings (red), since the old ones were quite worn-out (black):
DSC_1698-Kopie.jpg
This is how it all goes together:
DSC_1699-Kopie.jpg
And this is the result. quite happy. Will remove it all again, grease the rubber with some bushing-grease from the energy-bushings kit and have the washers and nuts zinc-plated alongside all the other nuts and bolts from the transmission before the final assembly:
DSC_1700-Kopie.jpg
 

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Had a bit of spare-time today and decided it's time to get some stuff done for the car once again. Wanted to have some parts replated (yellow zinc) so i grabbed everything that seemed to be worth replating. Here are all the small transmission parst that will go for replating (not all of them)
All-overview-Kopie.jpg

And than i found some other stuff that had to be disassembled first like the side marker / Turn signal lights:
P1190291-Kopie.jpg

Engine compartment repair light (Early version with the toggle type switch). before:
P1190292-Kopie.jpg

After ( I cut the wires since i will replaced them with new cables. the old ones are quite brittly and Nissan had a person with bad soldeirng skills for their soldeirng work *lol*):
P1190302-Kopie.jpg

Then the hood stay / lock mechanics:
P1190311-Kopie.jpg

So here are all the parts ready for replating. Still need to remove old paint (will do that tomorrow) before sending them. In case if you wonder how i remember where all the parts belong - What you see on this blog is actually just a small fraction of the pictures i make. I like to make all kind of "exploded view" shots like the ones above to remember the order they came in (FSM is wrong sometimes, or a bit unclear). And i also mark my pictures as seen here. When the parts return i will put them in the boxes again which belong to each part of the car :)
P1190312-Kopie-Kopie.jpg

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Spent some more time disassembling parts to get them ready for zinc-replating.
Thought while at it, i could take the brake-parts for a replating as well. So i started with the disassembly of my Sumitomo MK63 Solid disk type Ex-works type calipers:
P1190323-Kopie.jpg

First got the old pads and shims removed. still looking quite good to be honest:
P1190321-Kopie.jpg

Then spent an hour or so at the garage and disassembled the rest of the calipers. With the help of my trusty little air-compressor and some redneck-skills i managed to get 7/8 cylinders out of the calipers without any damage to me, tools or the calipers.
However the last sucker doesn't want to come out. Even brought it to a local garage and he used a torch to heat it up but wasn't able to remove it. we'll see how i can do that. Any inputs? Otherwise i'll try another two days having it soaked in WD40, and if that doesn't work i'll bring it to a machine shop or so... P1190334-Kopie.jpg

Otherwise i was quite successfull, the brakes are in great condition and by the way even learned a lot about brakes (first time working on some brakes so that was quite some fun). 
After that i took all the bits from the brakes plus some other i found in my garage and put them in the "re-plating box". Still need to clean all of this stuff for a few hours before i can send it there (they prefer old rust, grease, rubber-leftovers and paint to be removed.P1190338-Kopie-2.jpg

Hope i find some time again soon..

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While i can't show you much, i've been busy lately completeing a lot of stuff i've started but never really finnished.
1) Thanks to the input of some readers i was finally able to remove the last cylinder from the brake caliper. The solution was easy. install the allready-removed cylinder again and fix it with a c-clamp. add some air-pressure again to the brake-fluid channels and it would pop out easily (It doesnt look like the cylinder is aligned properly but i fixed that)
P1190346-Kopie.jpg
 

Since sunday my Rattler / Vibrator / Tumbler / Spirator / Whatever you call it, has been working in full force to remove all the rust / Paint / Dirt and grease from all the parts i will send for re-plating. It's maybe not the fastest solution but it comes out quite handy and you don't have to do anything except of waiting :)
P1190349-Kopie.jpg
 

Guess it will take another week or so until all the parts are ready andsome of them even might need a bit of manual cleaning, but the first bunch of parts are allready looking shiny and have a super-smooth surface :)
P1190348-Kopie.jpg
 

Then i got some new (used) turn signal switches from my mate Patrick (Thanks for that!) to complete that job too.  
P1190350-Kopie.jpg

That's it for now hope for more updates again soon :)

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I have to say that all the work you are doing is incredible.  I'm blow away by how much you are investing, both in terms of personal time and money wise.  

That said, your car is going to be awesome.  it's great to see how you're not cutting any corners, even for silly little things.  

keep up the good work.

seb

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Was quite busy this week with the Z's small projects that have been going on. I've been cleaning and exchanging the partsi n my tumbler almost daily and today i finally had them completed:
P1190386-Kopie.jpg

Now all is packed up and ready for zinc re-plating and yellow passivating. Which means i have to wait for the parts for approximately one week before i can continue.
Pretty happy with the result by the way. The Tumbler was well invested money. just took me some years to figure out how to use it properly :)
P1190388-Kopie.jpg

During preparation process i also fixed some parts which where slightly worn out.
Like this one. Before:
P1190382-Kopie.jpg

Straightening it out in the little vice:
P1190384-Kopie.jpg

and After. Much better :)
P1190385-Kopie.jpg

Oh and then got some new parts, like the replacement repair-lamp bulb cover. I know it's not 100% the OEM colour, but it looks pretty good. still might try to clean the original one.
P1190351-Kopie.jpg

Oh and some new door switches by the original manufacturer:
P1190381-Kopie.jpg

And greased and packed all my brake-stuff to prevent them from rusting.
P1190359-Kopie.jpg

Oh and started disassembly and cleaning of the ignition switches:
P1190377-Kopie.jpg

Next step: Ordering some parts (will do that in a minute) and then complete some other bits next week.

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On 31.10.2017 at 12:47 PM, supernova_6969 said:

I have to say that all the work you are doing is incredible.  I'm blow away by how much you are investing, both in terms of personal time and money wise.  

That said, your car is going to be awesome.  it's great to see how you're not cutting any corners, even for silly little things.  

keep up the good work.

seb

Thanks mate, appreciate your kind words. I guess restoring is half the fun, right? :) It's a hobby after all :)

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Excellent work! I like following your build -- motivates me to work on mine more!  Can I ask, what part number/vendor did you get those door switches from? On my '72 240z I think one of the door switches is only a one wire and the other is a two wire. MSA does't carry the one wire anymore. I could modify the two wire, but I'd rather have OEM.

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18 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Looks like you are taking apart the lock cylinder and tumblers, that is brave:hail:

I'm not going deeper than this, knowing that i would mess up more than i can handle :) Never touch a running system right? And i just removed the biggest bits to clean it a bit :)

22 hours ago, jkelly said:

Excellent work! I like following your build -- motivates me to work on mine more!  Can I ask, what part number/vendor did you get those door switches from? On my '72 240z I think one of the door switches is only a one wire and the other is a two wire. MSA does't carry the one wire anymore. I could modify the two wire, but I'd rather have OEM.

Found them on Ebay of all things ;)

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On 10/1/2017 at 8:19 AM, Derek said:

That looks normal to me for glass beading. Raw castings are usually shot blasted then machined. I found that putting parts in a vibratory finisher after blasting restores some of the luster. 

 I can fit my DOHC valve cover in my finisher. If you look closely you can see the difference. V3 is in the foreground and it has been shot blasted and then run in my vibratory finisher with burnishing media and liquid. V2 in the middle has only beed shot blasted. You can see a slight luster on V3.

20170810141258-7e818f41-me.jpg

Here are two parts I glass beaded.

20170707041056-f21a38ac-me.jpg

And here they are after vibratory finishing.

20170707041100-01e22bd7-me.jpg

 

There are many types of finishing media. Burnishing media is what gives the parts the luster. 

 

Derek

 

You should vapor blast these parts:)

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This week has been the most busy one car-wise in a while :) Well. I guess that's good?!
Thist itme i've cleaned the ignition switches again thoroughly and assembled them back. Tried to keep the original patina but clean it. And made sure all the contacts are fine.
P1190393-Kopie.jpg

Then installed one of them directly to the previously finnished steering column:
P1190394-Kopie.jpg

Really fun to start putting completed parts together to even bigger completed parts :)
Had the covering ring cleaned, since the old paint wasn't nice anymore:
P1190389-Kopie.jpg

Resprayed it with some rattle-can car-paint in flat black and had it drying under the lamp for a day: 
P1190396-Kopie.jpg

And then put it back to the switch:
P1190406-Kopie.jpg

And then got a package from Poland. Have to Thank Jakub Nurzaj a lot for his support and digging in some old stock to find me this US-Spec Corner valance with the factory cutout for the american turn signals. Cheers mate for the great service!
P1190400-Kopie.jpg

Also thanks for the free datsun europe stickers!
P1190401-Kopie.jpg

So now i have another shipment ready to get rust and paint removed at the alcohol dipping company. Body-parts are now officially complete. Hope i can push my bodyshop to hurry up a bit with the chassis... Progress is awfully slow at the moment...
P1190407-Kopie.jpg

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you know... I'm getting sad.  a while ago, progress was slow and you were starting a lot of things.  

now, progress is getting faster and faster, and you're finishing stuff up (really really well, I might add).  that makes me sad, that means that in a few months, you'll be dont with the car.  now that's all very good and fine for you, but what build blog am I going to follow then!   very few do as good work as you and post details like you do.

thanks for sharing all of that.  it's really appreciated.

 

seb

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