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Just starting my ls1/t56 build!


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So picked up my car which was a 71 240z as pictured.. https://imgur.com/a/R7Cdd

 

These were the problems found

  • horrible seats
  • destroyed weatherstripping
  • car ran super rich
  • 4 speed shifts very sloppy
  • one tire was gashed and leaking air
  • tach didn't work
  • wiring was randomly spliced here and there all over. 

With that said, the dash was pristine! I decided just to try to get her to run reliably at first and did the following

  • replaced seats
  • replaced fuel filter
  • triple oil change, with he first two being with marvel mystery oil
  • replace distributor with a re-manufactured one and upgrade it to pertronix
  • replaced the coil with a pertronix flamethrower
  • replace all spark-plugs with ngk's and gap them to .042
  • upgrade the alternator to a 60amp unit with a re-manufactured delco/remy from a 280zx
  • rebuild the carbs floats, and install new needles and clean up the carbs as much as I could. Checked for air leaks on bushings and found none.
  • valve lash was horribly incorrectly set and engine was only running on 5 cylinders since a valve was probably stuck open.

After doing all this my fuel pump gave out and the wiring apparently showed to have shorts... battery drained over-night and said **** it.. bought ezwiring 12 mini kit. Currently rewiring the car as we speak. Then said might as well swap to the ls1 I've always wanted. Found someone that is selling ls1 and t56 for about 3k so buying it come monday. 

 

Currently already have on order:

  • ChevyThunder standalone harness + pcm preflashed
  • walbro 255 pump
  • camaro regulator/filter
  • tilton 7/8 clutch master
  • russel clutch adaptor for the t56
  • 46in clutch line
  • new idler pulley
  • new belt
  • throttle cable kit

I've already talked to Johns cars about picking up my JCI kit, which is awesome since I'm local to him. So probably next weekend I'll be taking out the old L24 and 4 speed and prepping the engine bay for it's new heart!

 

 

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So I found a LS1 and T56 from a 98 camaro and the guy will be dropping it off friday afternoon. Has about 180k miles on it... what maintence should I do besides these?

  1. flush fluids
  2. spark plugs
  3. spark plug wires
  4. check water pump

I'm already swapping the belt/pulley due to A/C delete. Is there anything I should check with the heads? Engine was running well when I went to see it. I'm also getting a harness/pcm from ChevyThunder, just waiting for it to be done. I do have a few questions tho. I do not see O2 bungs on the JTR headers for the ls1? I assume I will have to get them added on the exhaust side.. which means I can't start the engine without at least a down pipe made from the shorty headers?

 

Fuel lines.... so I think I might have misjudged what I was going to do... I was just going to run 3/8 fuel hose's using the screw type clamps.. but the guy I was buying the engine said that with the EFI psi that runs on these cars.. that would not be adequate.. So I started looking at the doorman nylon push fittings and or SS braided line with summit -6AN push fittings.. Any ideas on cheapest route to go for that?

I was thinking of getting these 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-03-Corvette-LS1-Fuel-Filter-Fitting-Fittings-Kit-AN-6-BLUE-3-pc-Kit-/121524297441?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c4b699ee1&vxp=mtr

for the corvette filter/reg but I think I read somewhere that those type of fittings have a bad rep of coming off under pressure and that instead of those get the type with the screw ends instead of plastic ends. 

Edited by CableSrv
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I also have a '98 Camaro LS1 in my 280Z. The big difference is that mine still only has 38k miles on it. One thing, though, from the factory those engines were set up with a bypass fuel regulator that required a return line to the fuel tank. Fuel pressure at the injectors is supposed to be right at 59 psi. I suppose you can set yours up with a correct pump/regulator to not have to use a return line.

Last thing - don't go cheap on fuel lines. You won't like standing in the road,,or worse yet, your garage and watch your car burn to the ground.

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Fuel lines can be easy on the wallet if you don't get frustrated easily, I bought a tube bending tool and a double flare tool and made mine out of 3/8" od tubing. I had one minor leak that required some more torque on a coupling. I did use braded lines from the pickup to the pump (an8) I believe.

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Anyone used these before ?

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-2200075b

 

these are a 3/8 tube to AN adaptors. Would they hold under normal psi ? Or should I go with flared? and if flared.. what an flare nuts?

The shop that is going to do my nitrous and fuel lines suggested flaring the tubing instead of using these adaptors. They mentioned these adaptors can fail. Nothing like fuel and nitrous leaking over your coils to ruin your day.

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I had to draw a diagram with all the different connections for the pickup, filter, pump, regulators, and rail connection to make sure I had everything covered. The tank I built has a 1/2" npt, the walbro was a 10mm, the regulator 3/8" I believe etc.

i think I have some pics in my build thread. the long runs were easier because double flare fittings are available at most auto parts places.

So figure out what equipment your going to use and your line size. Look at the specifications for the equipment connection size and style for each connection and then count out the appropriate fittings to adapt to the tubing.

I would imagine those summit fittings would be fine if you are using aluminum tubing, they won't bite into steel tubing.

Edited by Naptown Dave
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Well last night my fuel lines came in!!!  3/8 hardline with all the -6AN fittings as well as my tube bender. as I started cleaning up the engine bay I noticed there is some really bad rust on the floor pans and not sure I really like the idea of bolting up the trans mount to that area. The area where the bolts will be will be in good metal but to me it just seems like I'm begging for something to happen even with a stock engine. So bit the bullet and ordered new floor pans and bad dog front and rear rails. I also ordered me a Eastwood 200DC tig machine and a 80CF cylinder. I really wish I didn't sell my Millermatic 135 when I had it. 

 

I also ordered to soft lines using black nylon/stainless steel braided fuel line and the black -6AN fittings for each of the soft lines. 

 

Headers from JTR should arrive today!! so stoked to finally get them and put them on the engine. Chevy Thunder also just emailed me saying he's already shipped off my harness!!! Wow that was quick!! 

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Fuel lines can be easy on the wallet if you don't get frustrated easily, I bought a tube bending tool and a double flare tool and made mine out of 3/8" od tubing. I had one minor leak that required some more torque on a coupling. I did use braded lines from the pickup to the pump (an8) I believe.

 

Late to the party but that is what I did when I swapped out my turbo build for the LS1.  I used SS tubing through and had a shop weld on AN fittings by the tank and up by the engine.

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