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LS1 240 mounts (facts not opinion???)

LS1 240

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#1 trackzpeed

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 06:54 AM

Ok I've done the research and it is not clear!!!!  I just passed on a 98 LS1 T56  Camaro because I can't get the Facts straight on LS1 to 240 mounts.  I've owned /raced 5 240's in the past and want to jump into an LS1 swap.  Here is what the search has turned up so far..... Please contribute factual  knowledge not "well I heard that.... opinion"

 

JCI- a lot out there seems to work well but is a bugger to install and I've run across a few complaints of poor fit and crappy hardware.  works with steering shaft and headers... read a few posts of busted motor mounts. 

 

Dirty dingo- Easier to install and works with headers but requires modification of steering rack..... or not,  I found a least two posts that indicate the rack worked just fine?  Have not seen a completed build...

 

CX racing-  have not seen a completed build and I have no reference for headers or steering rack... designed in the US but manufactured in China??? so quality issues?  Trans mount will most likely "not fit in 240 tunnel"

 

Hawks third gen-  "best mounts......" plenty of clearance but only work with "Hawks long tube headers".... or not, I ran across a post here on hybrid that states "JTR/Sanderson headers fit just fine with plenty of clearance.... what the hell! 

 

DIY- Why re-invent the wheel when the at least one of the above will work.... 

 

 

So back to my topic post, I would love to have some input on what really works!  Knowledge is power and opinions are like butt holes... everybody's got one.  So if you don't know what your talking about first hand, don't add to the confusion.

My car is a rust free (at least by Datsun standards lol) 72 240Z..... Thanks.  Jim "trackzpeed"



#2 malibud

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 07:55 AM

Check out Hoke performance facebook page. He is developing his own after having problems with others. His work is impressive...



#3 trackzpeed

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 09:43 AM

Didn't know Hoke was doing LS1 stuff... I thought he was strictly VQ transplants.  Thank you I will check it out.



#4 malibud

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 12:05 PM

Well... It is still in production last I saw he was working on it



#5 NewZed

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 12:12 PM

https://www.facebook...hokeperformance



#6 trackzpeed

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 12:35 PM

He is still prototyping.... Anybody have thoughts on my OP?  Good solid accurate data could make a needed sticky IMO.



#7 Jay Gadsby

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 01:56 PM

If you are that worried, make your own. Mount plates can be had for 20 bux specific to the LS engine. Energy suspension has poly mount kits for specific sized tube. It require more time, but if you have the means, it would be way cheaper in the end. I bought Sanderson headers, am just waiting to get a transmission, and alternator to make it work together. Headers steering and alt seem to be the main clearance points. Just my .02. Good luck either way!

#8 Boy from Oz

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 02:16 PM

I've just had a look at that Hoke page. His design will have the motor way forward of  the JCI mount set-up.



#9 socorob

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 05:07 PM

The JCI works and puts the motor in a decent place, but you're limited to shortie headers.

1978 280Z - LS1, Improved racing oil pan baffle, JTR Headers, Johns Cars Mounts, JTR intake - T56, MGW shifter-GM cruise control - Infiniti Q45 R200 diff - Techno Toy Tuning suspension with Konis front and rear - Vintage Air Compac - Z32 rear brakes - Q45 rear hubs - Lizard Skin sound and heat - 2003-2004 G35 wheels - 86 Z31 front hubs, Modern Motorsports rotor adapter, 86 Z31 front rotors, Toyota calipers - 2002 Miata seats ...in progress so far. http://forums.hybrid...to-ls1-t56-ttt/


#10 RebekahsZ

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 05:46 PM

JCI works. That's what I have. Nothing crappy about it. Nothing is perfect and nothing is BEST. You will have to massage every aspect of the install. Thats just the nature of a swap. If you want to make no modifications along the way, probably better get a Mustang.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#11 RebekahsZ

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 05:47 PM

Try to go back and grab that camaro.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#12 trackzpeed

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 07:18 PM

I contacted the camaro owner and we are back on. Pick her up Tuesday

#13 GeeZ

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 07:31 PM

Hawks Third Gen is better and locates engine in a better position. According to Hawks they made these to sell their headers. Texis has these in his 240Z. I have John's Cars mount in my 280Z with LS1 and T56. Comparing

the two, I would say that Hawks is better. Just my opinion.


Edited by GeeZ, 13 February 2015 - 07:34 PM.


#14 trackzpeed

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 08:00 PM

Ok.... Thanks for the input and comments. I know the jci kit works and is proven but some have had legit complaints so I want to know if they are warranted. I can and do turn my own wrenches so I am prepared for the inevitable massaging to make it all work. Yes building my own mounts is cheaper but as I said no point in reinventing the wheel. The main point of my OP was to dismiss the myths of each kit.... Do other headers work with hawks? Does steering shaft need to be modified for dirty dingo? Any real info on CX? Is there something out there that has been done better and still yet to be found (hoke?). Just looking for answers to make my best purchase, with the best outcomes......
I still think this would make a killer sticky!

#15 trackzpeed

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 08:01 PM

Hawks Third Gen is better and locates engine in a better position. According to Hawks they made these to sell their headers. Texis has these in his 240Z. I have John's Cars mount in my 280Z with LS1 and T56. Comparing
the two, I would say that Hawks is better. Just my opinion.


Great thanks for the input.....

#16 RebekahsZ

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 08:09 PM

I guess the best mounting system would depend on what you want to do. If you have a fab shop and plastic engine and tranny to mock up with (and know what the heck you are doing), you could probably do best to make your own for your specific purpose. But if you want a system that somebody else has already designed and has been used by a bunch of us with success and is pretty close to bolt-in, the JCI kit is hard to beat. In the standing 1/2-mile (a pretty good dyno) with my stock LS2 with unequal, poorly designed JTR Sanderson block hugger headers, I ran neck and neck with a souped up LS6 that ran Hawks mounts and long tube headers. The contribution of long tubes to actual performance is just so negligible. The tranny crossmember is a little flimsy, but so what? The driver side mount is kinda bulky, but it works.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#17 trackzpeed

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 08:10 PM

A quote from str8pipes in the closed hawks thread....

"Got my engine mounts from Hawk's. Much beefier in person. I mocked them up on the engine as shown in the pics. JTR headers clear by a mile, FYI. Hopefully the steering / JTR header combo makes it ok. Parts are really nice overall."

To bad we never got the outcomes of this install.

#18 trackzpeed

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 08:12 PM

I guess the best mounting system would depend on what you want to do. If you have a fab shop and plastic engine and tranny to mock up with (and know what the heck you are doing), you could probably do best to make your own for your specific purpose. But if you want a system that somebody else has already designed and has been used by a bunch of us with success and is pretty close to bolt-in, the JCI kit is hard to beat. In the standing 1/2-mile (a pretty good dyno) with my stock LS2 with unequal, poorly designed JTR Sanderson block hugger headers, I ran neck and neck with a souped up LS6 that ran Hawks mounts and long tube headers. The contribution of long tubes to actual performance is just so negligible. The tranny crossmember is a little flimsy, but so what? The driver side mount is kinda bulky, but it works.


Looking for you to be a key source in my build RBZ. You know your stuff from reading many of your posts and comments. Thanks

#19 Zfan1

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 09:16 PM

I am using the JCI mounts, long tube headers from the group buy, made my own 4L80E trans mounts, not rocket science. The long tubes needed some minor modifications but worked even with an auto when they were designed for a T56.  That is my experience anyway.  Heck, I am running 3" dual exhaust without problems, it's all doable if you try!



#20 trackzpeed

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Posted 14 February 2015 - 04:52 AM

I am using the JCI mounts, long tube headers from the group buy, made my own 4L80E trans mounts, not rocket science. The long tubes needed some minor modifications but worked even with an auto when they were designed for a T56.  That is my experience anyway.  Heck, I am running 3" dual exhaust without problems, it's all doable if you try!



Thanks for the input. Any dirty dingo, hawks,cx users out there want to chime in?




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