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LS1 240 mounts (facts not opinion???)

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Ok I've done the research and it is not clear!!!!  I just passed on a 98 LS1 T56  Camaro because I can't get the Facts straight on LS1 to 240 mounts.  I've owned /raced 5 240's in the past and want to jump into an LS1 swap.  Here is what the search has turned up so far..... Please contribute factual  knowledge not "well I heard that.... opinion"

 

JCI- a lot out there seems to work well but is a bugger to install and I've run across a few complaints of poor fit and crappy hardware.  works with steering shaft and headers... read a few posts of busted motor mounts. 

 

Dirty dingo- Easier to install and works with headers but requires modification of steering rack..... or not,  I found a least two posts that indicate the rack worked just fine?  Have not seen a completed build...

 

CX racing-  have not seen a completed build and I have no reference for headers or steering rack... designed in the US but manufactured in China??? so quality issues?  Trans mount will most likely "not fit in 240 tunnel"

 

Hawks third gen-  "best mounts......" plenty of clearance but only work with "Hawks long tube headers".... or not, I ran across a post here on hybrid that states "JTR/Sanderson headers fit just fine with plenty of clearance.... what the hell! 

 

DIY- Why re-invent the wheel when the at least one of the above will work.... 

 

 

So back to my topic post, I would love to have some input on what really works!  Knowledge is power and opinions are like butt holes... everybody's got one.  So if you don't know what your talking about first hand, don't add to the confusion.

My car is a rust free (at least by Datsun standards lol) 72 240Z..... Thanks.  Jim "trackzpeed"

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If you are that worried, make your own. Mount plates can be had for 20 bux specific to the LS engine. Energy suspension has poly mount kits for specific sized tube. It require more time, but if you have the means, it would be way cheaper in the end. I bought Sanderson headers, am just waiting to get a transmission, and alternator to make it work together. Headers steering and alt seem to be the main clearance points. Just my .02. Good luck either way!

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JCI works. That's what I have. Nothing crappy about it. Nothing is perfect and nothing is BEST. You will have to massage every aspect of the install. Thats just the nature of a swap. If you want to make no modifications along the way, probably better get a Mustang.

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Hawks Third Gen is better and locates engine in a better position. According to Hawks they made these to sell their headers. Texis has these in his 240Z. I have John's Cars mount in my 280Z with LS1 and T56. Comparing

the two, I would say that Hawks is better. Just my opinion.

Edited by GeeZ

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Ok.... Thanks for the input and comments. I know the jci kit works and is proven but some have had legit complaints so I want to know if they are warranted. I can and do turn my own wrenches so I am prepared for the inevitable massaging to make it all work. Yes building my own mounts is cheaper but as I said no point in reinventing the wheel. The main point of my OP was to dismiss the myths of each kit.... Do other headers work with hawks? Does steering shaft need to be modified for dirty dingo? Any real info on CX? Is there something out there that has been done better and still yet to be found (hoke?). Just looking for answers to make my best purchase, with the best outcomes......

I still think this would make a killer sticky!

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Hawks Third Gen is better and locates engine in a better position. According to Hawks they made these to sell their headers. Texis has these in his 240Z. I have John's Cars mount in my 280Z with LS1 and T56. Comparing

the two, I would say that Hawks is better. Just my opinion.

Great thanks for the input.....

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I guess the best mounting system would depend on what you want to do. If you have a fab shop and plastic engine and tranny to mock up with (and know what the heck you are doing), you could probably do best to make your own for your specific purpose. But if you want a system that somebody else has already designed and has been used by a bunch of us with success and is pretty close to bolt-in, the JCI kit is hard to beat. In the standing 1/2-mile (a pretty good dyno) with my stock LS2 with unequal, poorly designed JTR Sanderson block hugger headers, I ran neck and neck with a souped up LS6 that ran Hawks mounts and long tube headers. The contribution of long tubes to actual performance is just so negligible. The tranny crossmember is a little flimsy, but so what? The driver side mount is kinda bulky, but it works.

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A quote from str8pipes in the closed hawks thread....

 

"Got my engine mounts from Hawk's. Much beefier in person. I mocked them up on the engine as shown in the pics. JTR headers clear by a mile, FYI. Hopefully the steering / JTR header combo makes it ok. Parts are really nice overall."

 

To bad we never got the outcomes of this install.

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I guess the best mounting system would depend on what you want to do. If you have a fab shop and plastic engine and tranny to mock up with (and know what the heck you are doing), you could probably do best to make your own for your specific purpose. But if you want a system that somebody else has already designed and has been used by a bunch of us with success and is pretty close to bolt-in, the JCI kit is hard to beat. In the standing 1/2-mile (a pretty good dyno) with my stock LS2 with unequal, poorly designed JTR Sanderson block hugger headers, I ran neck and neck with a souped up LS6 that ran Hawks mounts and long tube headers. The contribution of long tubes to actual performance is just so negligible. The tranny crossmember is a little flimsy, but so what? The driver side mount is kinda bulky, but it works.

Looking for you to be a key source in my build RBZ. You know your stuff from reading many of your posts and comments. Thanks

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I am using the JCI mounts, long tube headers from the group buy, made my own 4L80E trans mounts, not rocket science. The long tubes needed some minor modifications but worked even with an auto when they were designed for a T56.  That is my experience anyway.  Heck, I am running 3" dual exhaust without problems, it's all doable if you try!

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I am using the JCI mounts, long tube headers from the group buy, made my own 4L80E trans mounts, not rocket science. The long tubes needed some minor modifications but worked even with an auto when they were designed for a T56.  That is my experience anyway.  Heck, I am running 3" dual exhaust without problems, it's all doable if you try!

 

Thanks for the input. Any dirty dingo, hawks,cx users out there want to chime in?

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That's the thing. No matter what kit you buy, or if you make your own, there will be little things that need a little (or a lot) of tweaking. All this aftermarket stuff is imperfect. No two aftermarket headers turn out exactly the same coming off the jig. There is often 1/4" here or there that will require grinding, bending, dimpling, or actual cutting and re-aligning. I doubt you can find a set of those "group buy" long tubes unless somebody bought a set and just has them lying around collecting dust; that was a very limited production run. Some, but not all, of those headers had to have the collectors cut off and re-aligned to be able to fit a 240z. Before starting a swap like this, you should either know how to weld or have a good buddy who does. Go buy an electric cut off wheel, a grinder and a 3# sledge. Then dive in. Be patient. The quality of the finish will depend on how much patience you have. I bet I installed and pulled my motor 10 times before it was good enough for me and there are STILL things I wish I had done better/differently. I recently paid somebody $13,000 parts and LABOR to do the same swap on my truck. I wish I had done that myself. The swap on my Z turned out much better. But, at the same time, there is more room in a Z engine bay and I have zero accessories on the Z. And I plan to keep it that way.

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A quote from str8pipes in the closed hawks thread....

 

"Got my engine mounts from Hawk's. Much beefier in person. I mocked them up on the engine as shown in the pics. JTR headers clear by a mile, FYI. Hopefully the steering / JTR header combo makes it ok. Parts are really nice overall."

 

To bad we never got the outcomes of this install.

 

I was wrong. The JTR driver side header cleared, the passenger side did not. I went back to the JCI mounts considering I already had the JTR headers and that combo works. Swap is nearly complete, tried to start it last night but had a bad injector leak so waiting to get some new o-rings and trying again hopefully tonight.

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I was wrong. The JTR driver side header cleared, the passenger side did not. I went back to the JCI mounts considering I already had the JTR headers and that combo works. Swap is nearly complete, tried to start it last night but had a bad injector leak so waiting to get some new o-rings and trying again hopefully tonight.

 

Thanks for the input. Good luck with the build.. Happy with the jci product overall?

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My CX Racing kit should be here in a few days. No one has used the kit yet so I though I would be the test pilot. There slightly I spent some time on the phone before ordering. The car in the video is a 240z. There trans mount seems to fit that tunnel just fine. I asked and they so it fits the 240z. There kit allows adjustment of the engine forward and backwards  in 1/2" increments which is a bonus. Trans mount seems to be a solid design. I didn't order there headers for the kit because there anemic. There only 1 1/2" primaries on there what I would call mid length. I have a local guy who will fab up 1 3/4 Long tubes for 1000 plus material.

 

It was -19 F today inside my garage and the 240V heater can't keep up. It needs to be warmer for me to work on it. I will report my findings. I will be installing a L33 in my 71 240z

 

CX racings video of there kit in a 240z

 

Edited by Ryan Merrill

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