First off, if you haven't seen my thread over in the drivetrain section, it covers a lot of technical information on the swap and reviews of the previous 6 kits I've sold. If you feel like reading through 16 pages then the link is below.
Now onto the info for those of you who haven't seen my setup.
- What this kit allows you to do:
- Mount an 8.8 IRS differential from an 2002-2005 Ford Explorer/Mercury Mountaineer. This is practically the same differential used in the 03/04 cobras, just cheaper and has a stronger rear cover from the factory.
- Use a custom differential stub axles along with off the shelf components to convert to Porsche 930 CV joints and 930 axles. A F150 front axle outer CV joint is used for the outboard CV joint. The F150 CV uses the same splines as the 930 stuff and has a 33 spline axle which goes into a ~2000 Dodge Intrepid Front Hub. The Intrepid hub has the 5x4.5" bolt pattern(Mustangs, newer Nissan's, etc). If you are looking to stay 4 lug that is an option as well. However, I am not currently planning on drilling the hubs for 4 lug, so your favorite local machine shop will need to be sourced. So from the inside to outside you have: 8.8 Differential->Custom Stub Axle->Porsche 930 CV Joint->Porsche 930 Axle->F150 Front Outer CV Joint->Dodge Intrepid Hub->Wheel.
- Use my custom suspension upright to mount the Intrepid Hub Assembly along with Coil-overs and Koni struts(Or other options are in the works). For brakes you have the option of either Wilwood 4 piston calipers and 2 piece 12.2" rotors, or running cobra brakes that are a popular swap for the stock rear setup
- Why it is the best IRS setup for S30s out there:
- The only custom part that is breakable is the custom differential stub axle. I make and weld on a flange to the stock Explorer Inner CV housing. In the event this becomes the weak point(Which I don't see happening). Driveshaft shop sells custom billet chromoly ones for $500 a pair.
- In the even the CV Joints become the weak link you can upgrade to 300M CV Joints, 300M axles, replace the F150 CV Joint with a Porsche 930 Micro stub and another 930 CV Joint(The F150 setup is cheaper).
- The 8.8 IRS differential has every gear ratio you could ever want for about 150 per gear set. You can get bearings/parts at your local parts store. It's an all aluminum housing so its relatively light. You can actually buy differentials for the thing(Unlike the Nissan diffs).
- Large wilwood brakes, koni struts, coil-overs.
- Budget friendly, uses lots of off the shelf parts to lower cost.
- What I actually provide:
- Front differential mount. This bolts in where the RT(Ron Tyler) style diff mount bolts in. If you have a high HP car I would recommend welding this in because the bolts/nuts have been known to come loose with a mount styled like this. The mount is up and out of the way of everything and does not impair getting the differential out if it was welded in.
- Rear Differential Mount/Mustache Bar. I make an aluminum(6061-T6) mustache bar that bolts to the factory studs and mounts the rear of the 8.8 diff. It uses polyurethane bushings in the same location as the stock mustache bar.
- Rear LCA drop down/dogbone. The rear differential mounts go through the stock LCA drop down brackets so I make a new steel one which replaces the old drop downs and bolts right to the piece which holds the bushing.
- 8.8 Differential Stub Axle. You send me a pair of rear explorer CV axles($100/pair on ebay). I make 930 CV flanges and weld them to the explorer stub axles. This allows you to bolt up a Porsche 930 CV joint.
- Suspension Upright/Strut Tube. I provide a custom upright that holds the Intrepid Hub, Wilwood(Or cobra) brakes, Koni struts(Or other options), Coil-overs from A1racing(Or any coil-over kit which fits the stock strut tubes). It uses a bolt on strut tube that has built in camber adjustment. You can use the stock strut top hat if you don't want to go to camber plates.
- For those running Wilwood brakes the rotor hat needs in inner bore enlarged a bit to fit over the Intrepid Hub. I can do this for $20/pair of hats. You ship the hats to me and I'll send them with the rest of your kit.
- Every bolt you will need to bolt it all up.
- Everything powder coated black, unless you really want a different color, then we can probably work something out. If you don't want anything powder coated it will save you roughly $100.
- Cobra brake caliper brackets are going to cost a bit extra, not sure exactly how much at this time, but probably around $40 extra.
- What I don't provide
- Anything you can buy off the shelf. I'm not into the parts selling business, I can't compete with large retailers like Summitracing.com, Jegs, Rockauto.com, etc. I provide a detailed list of everything you need which includes part numbers, links to the cheapest place I could find to buy it, prices, quantities, etc. You just go through the list and order everything and it gets shipped straight to you. This makes it cheaper for you and less of an investment on my part to order lots of parts up front.
- I currently do not assemble the CV axles for you. This is probably the hardest part of the whole install. The F150 CV Axle you buy from "insert auto parts store here" must be taken apart to get the outer CV joint. The shaft must actually be cut off close to the outer CV joint in order to disassemble the joint to remove the F150 shaft. It is really not that difficult its just messy(CV Grease) and a little time consuming.
- The 8.8 differential. You can pick these up on ebay, from junk yards, from that 02+ explorer in the walmart parking lot, etc etc. If you get it from a junk yard and can get the CV axles with it for cheap, then you are in good shape. The condition of the explorer CV axles does not matter, all I need is the inner spline portion.
- The 600HP+ supercharged LSx motor that Texis300 has putting power through this setup(With a clutch between the two). However, if you provide me with his motor, I will give you a kit for free.
- How much it will hurt your pocket book:
- The custom parts that I listed off above are going to cost $1350. This includes everything I listed out above. I have attached a parts list below detailing what the total setup should cost for everything but a driveshaft. My parts are listed on there too, broken down by piece, but those prices will probably only hold as a full kit. If you want individual pieces instead of the full thing, the cost will probably go up slightly.
- My price does not include shipping. As long as everything goes smoothly, you will pay exactly what I pay for shipping plus a small fee for packing. It cost around $70 to ship everything last time and around $10 for packaging.
- On the spreadsheet currently it says it will cost $3365 for everything. Keep in mind guys this is the differential, CV Axles, Wilwood brakes, Koni Struts, Coil-overs, etc. This gets you a completely new rear end with very nice, strong parts. I haven't done the numbers yet but the cobra brakes will reduce the price by several hundred I believe.
I placed an order with a local laser shop to cut everything needed for 10 full sets(With the option for 5 to use cobra brakes). They have a 3 week lead time, but the order is placed and the ball is rolling(extremely overdue). I know I had a lot of people PM'ing me who were interested after I finish the first 5 sets up. I would like to keep this thread on the more purchasing/product info side of things and use the current thread in the drivetrain forum for technical questions, etc. Feel free to ask questions on here, on the other thread, or shoot me a PM. As many others have found out, I'm a senior Mechanical Engineering student, I work full time now, so I get quite busy at times but I try to keep up best I can. This is a side business for me(for now) so sometimes my day job/school gets put first unfortunately.
I have attached pictures below, rather than make this post extremely long I will just leave them in the attached section. I have also uploaded the parts list as a PDF.