Jump to content
HybridZ
wfritts911

S30 Ultimate 8.8 IRS Swap Kit!

Recommended Posts

First off, if you haven't seen my thread over in the drivetrain section, it covers a lot of technical information on the swap and reviews of the previous 6 kits I've sold. If you feel like reading through 16 pages then the link is below.

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117668-the-ultimate-irs-swap-for-s30s/

 

Now onto the info for those of you who haven't seen my setup.

 

  • What this kit allows you to do:
    • Mount an 8.8 IRS differential from an 2002-2005 Ford Explorer/Mercury Mountaineer. This is practically the same differential used in the 03/04 cobras, just cheaper and has a stronger rear cover from the factory.
    • Use a custom differential stub axles along with off the shelf components to convert to Porsche 930 CV joints and 930 axles. A F150 front axle outer CV joint is used for the outboard CV joint. The F150 CV uses the same splines as the 930 stuff and has a 33 spline axle which goes into a ~2000 Dodge Intrepid Front Hub. The Intrepid hub has the 5x4.5" bolt pattern(Mustangs, newer Nissan's, etc). If you are looking to stay 4 lug that is an option as well. However, I am not currently planning on drilling the hubs for 4 lug, so your favorite local machine shop will need to be sourced. So from the inside to outside you have:  8.8 Differential->Custom Stub Axle->Porsche 930 CV Joint->Porsche 930 Axle->F150 Front Outer CV Joint->Dodge Intrepid Hub->Wheel.
    • Use my custom suspension upright to mount the Intrepid Hub Assembly along with Coil-overs and Koni struts(Or other options are in the works). For brakes you have the option of either Wilwood 4 piston calipers and 2 piece 12.2" rotors, or running cobra brakes that are a popular swap for the stock rear setup
  • Why it is the best IRS setup for S30s out there:
    • The only custom part that is breakable is the custom differential stub axle. I make and weld on a flange to the stock Explorer Inner CV housing. In the event this becomes the weak point(Which I don't see happening). Driveshaft shop sells custom billet chromoly ones for $500 a pair.
    • In the even the CV Joints become the weak link you can upgrade to 300M CV Joints, 300M axles, replace the F150 CV Joint with a Porsche 930 Micro stub and another 930 CV Joint(The F150 setup is cheaper).
    • The 8.8 IRS differential has every gear ratio you could ever want for about 150 per gear set. You can get bearings/parts at your local parts store. It's an all aluminum housing so its relatively light. You can actually buy differentials for the thing(Unlike the Nissan diffs).
    • Large wilwood brakes, koni struts, coil-overs.
    • Budget friendly, uses lots of off the shelf parts to lower cost.
  • What I actually provide:
    • Front differential mount. This bolts in where the RT(Ron Tyler) style diff mount bolts in. If you have a high HP car I would recommend welding this in because the bolts/nuts have been known to come loose with a mount styled like this. The mount is up and out of the way of everything and does not impair getting the differential out if it was welded in.
    • Rear Differential Mount/Mustache Bar. I make an aluminum(6061-T6) mustache bar that bolts to the factory studs and mounts the rear of the 8.8 diff. It uses polyurethane bushings in the same location as the stock mustache bar.
    • Rear LCA drop down/dogbone. The rear differential mounts go through the stock LCA drop down brackets so I make a new steel one which replaces the old drop downs and bolts right to the piece which holds the bushing.
    • 8.8 Differential Stub Axle. You send me a pair of rear explorer CV axles($100/pair on ebay). I make 930 CV flanges and weld them to the explorer stub axles. This allows you to bolt up a Porsche 930 CV joint.
    • Suspension Upright/Strut Tube. I provide a custom upright that holds the Intrepid Hub, Wilwood(Or cobra) brakes, Koni struts(Or other options), Coil-overs from A1racing(Or any coil-over kit which fits the stock strut tubes). It uses a bolt on strut tube that has built in camber adjustment. You can use the stock strut top hat if you don't want to go to camber plates.
    • For those running Wilwood brakes the rotor hat needs in inner bore enlarged a bit to fit over the Intrepid Hub. I can do this for $20/pair of hats. You ship the hats to me and I'll send them with the rest of your kit.
    • Every bolt you will need to bolt it all up.
    • Everything powder coated black, unless you really want a different color, then we can probably work something out. If you don't want anything powder coated it will save you roughly $100.
    • Cobra brake caliper brackets are going to cost a bit extra, not sure exactly how much at this time, but probably around $40 extra.
  • What I don't provide
    • Anything you can buy off the shelf. I'm not into the parts selling business, I can't compete with large retailers like Summitracing.com, Jegs, Rockauto.com, etc. I provide a detailed list of everything you need which includes part numbers, links to the cheapest place I could find to buy it, prices, quantities, etc. You just go through the list and order everything and it gets shipped straight to you. This makes it cheaper for you and less of an investment on my part to order lots of parts up front.
    • I currently do not assemble the CV axles for you. This is probably the hardest part of the whole install. The F150 CV Axle you buy from "insert auto parts store here" must be taken apart to get the outer CV joint. The shaft must actually be cut off close to the outer CV joint in order to disassemble the joint to remove the F150 shaft. It is really not that difficult its just messy(CV Grease) and a little time consuming.
    • The 8.8 differential. You can pick these up on ebay, from junk yards, from that 02+ explorer in the walmart parking lot, etc etc. If you get it from a junk yard and can get the CV axles with it for cheap, then you are in good shape. The condition of the explorer CV axles does not matter, all I need is the inner spline portion.
    • The 600HP+ supercharged LSx motor that Texis300 has putting power through this setup(With a clutch between the two). However, if you provide me with his motor, I will give you a kit for free.
  • How much it will hurt your pocket book:
    • The custom parts that I listed off above are going to cost $1350. This includes everything I listed out above. I have attached a parts list below detailing what the total setup should cost for everything but a driveshaft. My parts are listed on there too, broken down by piece, but those prices will probably only hold as a full kit. If you want individual pieces instead of the full thing, the cost will probably go up slightly.
    • My price does not include shipping. As long as everything goes smoothly, you will pay exactly what I pay for shipping plus a small fee for packing. It cost around $70 to ship everything last time and around $10 for packaging.
    • On the spreadsheet currently it says it will cost $3365 for everything. Keep in mind guys this is the differential, CV Axles, Wilwood brakes, Koni Struts, Coil-overs, etc. This gets you a completely new rear end with very nice, strong parts. I haven't done the numbers yet but the cobra brakes will reduce the price by several hundred I believe.

I placed an order with a local laser shop to cut everything needed for 10 full sets(With the option for 5 to use cobra brakes). They have a 3 week lead time, but the order is placed and the ball is rolling(extremely overdue). I know I had a lot of people PM'ing me who were interested after I finish the first 5 sets up. I would like to keep this thread on the more purchasing/product info side of things and use the current thread in the drivetrain forum for technical questions, etc. Feel free to ask questions on here, on the other thread, or shoot me a PM. As many others have found out, I'm a senior Mechanical Engineering student, I work full time now, so I get quite busy at times but I try to keep up best I can. This is a side business for me(for now) so sometimes my day job/school gets put first unfortunately.

 

I have attached pictures below, rather than make this post extremely long I will just leave them in the attached section. I have also uploaded the parts list as a PDF.

 

-Will

post-27433-0-44941900-1426131602_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-12508400-1426131639_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-00629400-1426131645_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-94990400-1426131650_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-15871500-1426131657_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-00393100-1426131666_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-18154200-1426131672_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-78035300-1426131678_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-41919000-1426131699_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-31505800-1426131852_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-63908000-1426131864_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-84309600-1426131873_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-53710600-1426131879_thumb.jpg

S30 8.8 Swap Parts List.pdf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Atta Boy Will. I can tell you he is above board.  I went so far as to visit him in person a few times during our venture and he has been nothing short of straight forward during the whole adventure.  I am putting down 600+rwhp in my car through a t56 and have no issues.  I will be hitting the 1/4 mile track soon as the last kinks of my build are being worked out now.  I will attend tx2k15 ( not competing) if you want to see the car and the set up.  Will did a really good job on these kits. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It should be after all of the damn money I have thrown at it.......

No I just plasti dipped it silver.  It was "baby shit yellow" 920 Safari Gold. 

the green one you are talking about has a VG swap in it it bounced around from CMS here in town to J Tran who finished/ is finishing it up.  I haven't meet the guy who owns it but I am some what familiar with the story of it.

I think I am going to roll out SAT AM and do some test hits on the car at a place not too far from me.  I am planning on bringing my Go Pro to get some video. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It should be after all of the damn money I have thrown at it.......

No I just plasti dipped it silver.  It was "baby shit yellow" 920 Safari Gold. 

the green one you are talking about has a VG swap in it it bounced around from CMS here in town to J Tran who finished/ is finishing it up.  I haven't meet the guy who owns it but I am some what familiar with the story of it.

I think I am going to roll out SAT AM and do some test hits on the car at a place not too far from me.  I am planning on bringing my Go Pro to get some video. 

Oh I see and lol at dollars thrown at it = green

 

Any updates regarding availability?

I sent the OP a message when I posted so I'm checking here periodically, but haven't heard anything yet

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Been slow going, haven't had a chance to touch anything for the past couple weeks, been buried up building this damn Baja SAE car. Just finished up our first race this last week, so planning on hitting it hard now that I might have a sliver of free time. Haven't touched any of my personal stuff in weeks/months it seems.

 

These kits are happening, just slow rolling on my end. If only I could just quit my day job I'd be in business.

 

 

Thanks,

 

-Will

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First of all Will, Excellent job, most people have no idea how hard it is to prototype stuff and bring it to market.  It is absolutely the right plan to be bolt on.  Those are the 6 letters that make life good in the parts world.  Most guys are good with wrenches, but most do not have welders.  This statement comes from 15 years in the Factory Five kit car world.  Everything we sell is bolt on for a reason, it gets installed.     

 

Kind of new here but not to the 8.8 though.  We hold the patent that puts disc brakes on Fox Mustangs and keeps the fox track.  www.northracecars.com (admin, if this link is inappropriate delete it) we also make one to convert T bird/lincoln to cobra brakes.  I am not trying to sell anything, just letting people know who we are.  We/I have great access to cobra rotors and calipers (we are having new calipers made, not reman).  I am also very very interested in this set up; LS1 240 in process.  Will feel free to call me if you need any help 816-436-1610.  We laser cut a lot of stuff and I may be able to get you some pricing.  Or we can put a package together for you on the calipers and rotors.  I have no interest in copying anything, holding a patent makes you realize how crappy it is when people do that.  

 

My only observation is there has to be a way to use a stock inner and outer CV so there is no fabrication.  Factory five sells an IRS kit for the Roadster that uses custom axles and the T bird/lincoln CVs on both ends.  I have an upright if we need dimensions.  Again trying to help.     

 

Again great job, Richard Oben North Racecars inc.    

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Checking in, I was the one who lent the Cobra pieces and adapter to fit Cobra brakes with the stock setup. So is a setup with Cobra brakes a go? I never heard back from you and I'm obviously interested enough to have sent you parts. Please get in touch, I'm definitely interested in getting a package together for my car as the rear end is what's holding up my 2JZ swap - well that and a million other projects plus my lack of time <sigh>

Edited by BLKMGK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Checking in, I was the one who lent the Cobra pieces and adapter to fit Cobra brakes with the stock setup. So is a setup with Cobra brakes a go? I never heard back from you and I'm obviously interested enough to have sent you parts. Please get in touch, I'm definitely interested in getting a package together for my car as the rear end is what's holding up my 2JZ swap - well that and a million other projects plus my lack of time <sigh>

 

Yes the cobra brakes are a go. Sorry for never getting back with you, its been hectic. I have enough stuff to do several cobra brake setups as well as 10 setups with Wilwood brakes.

 

so this is basically a bolt in setup?

 

Yes this is a bolt-in setup. However, if you are putting serious power down, I would recommend welding the front diff mount in the car. It sits up above the diff and does not interfere with being able to remove the diff or anything. My reason for this being the results others on this forum have had(SunnyZ for one) with the nuts that the front diff mount bolts to breaking loose for the chassis. Running a shortnose diff forces the mount to cantilever out putting additional stress on these bolts compared to the normal RT setup with the longnose R200.

 

First of all Will, Excellent job, most people have no idea how hard it is to prototype stuff and bring it to market.  It is absolutely the right plan to be bolt on.  Those are the 6 letters that make life good in the parts world.  Most guys are good with wrenches, but most do not have welders.  This statement comes from 15 years in the Factory Five kit car world.  Everything we sell is bolt on for a reason, it gets installed.     

 

Kind of new here but not to the 8.8 though.  We hold the patent that puts disc brakes on Fox Mustangs and keeps the fox track.  www.northracecars.com (admin, if this link is inappropriate delete it) we also make one to convert T bird/lincoln to cobra brakes.  I am not trying to sell anything, just letting people know who we are.  We/I have great access to cobra rotors and calipers (we are having new calipers made, not reman).  I am also very very interested in this set up; LS1 240 in process.  Will feel free to call me if you need any help 816-436-1610.  We laser cut a lot of stuff and I may be able to get you some pricing.  Or we can put a package together for you on the calipers and rotors.  I have no interest in copying anything, holding a patent makes you realize how crappy it is when people do that.  

 

My only observation is there has to be a way to use a stock inner and outer CV so there is no fabrication.  Factory five sells an IRS kit for the Roadster that uses custom axles and the T bird/lincoln CVs on both ends.  I have an upright if we need dimensions.  Again trying to help.     

 

Again great job, Richard Oben North Racecars inc.    

 

At this time I do not know of a stock inner CV that uses the Porsche 930 axles. At one point I was doing a lot of research into other axles and found some that MIGHT have the same splines as 930 axles that would work in the 8.8(From newer ford vehicles), but information regarding the spline count is few and far between and I never bit the bullet and bought a new axle just to tear apart. I do agree that finding a stock inner CV we could use would be ideal, just a matter of finding one.

 

-Will

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/catalog/product/view/id/1803/s/factory-five-cobra-550hp-rear-axle-kit-for-pin-drive-knock-off-wheels/

 

These are what I was referring to.  No need for the 930 axles.  They are for the T bird inner and outer, but I am sure we could have them made with the 31 spline inners and then all we need to do if find the outer bearing to work.  The thought of welding the inner from the F150 to the Porsche cage to the 930 axle just seems wrong if it is avoidable.  Just thinking out loud.

 

The more I look at your work, the more I like it.  Richard. 

Edited by Richard Oben

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All I do is weld a flange on the inner stub from the explorer axle. Then Porsche 930 CV then bolts to this flange. DSS sells the same thing I make, its just a little more expensive than what I do.

 

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domestic-axles/ford/2003-2004-cobra-8-8-inner-cv-mount-for-108mm-or-porsche-930-cv-joint-spline-is-300m

 

Part of the glory of my swap is to avoid custom drivetrain parts. The only part that is custom and in a breakable position is that stub axle, which DSS sells incase mine aren't strong enough or one breaks and I'm no longer around. The problem with trying to get custom axles/stubs/etc made is what happens when you break one, but there aren't anymore and aren't enough people to get a group by going. You are SOL or forced to pay a really high price to get 1 offs made.

 

-Will

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just got the rest of the metal I needed in last week. Sent what needed to be sent off to a machine shop to get flanges, mustache bar mounts, etc made. Hoping to get uprights all tacked up this weekend. Still making progress on this, just REALLY slowly lol.

 

Thanks for everyone's patience once again.

 

-Will

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alright, finally getting around to making some progress on this stuff. I've got the uprights, front diff mounts, and strut tubes all tacked up and ready to finish weld. Have 6 mustache bar assemblies ready to go, just short a few bars and a few sets of bushings for the rest of the 10. Have enough axle flanges to modify 10 pairs of explorer stubs. I need to order some more DOM tubing to make the strut spacers for the bottom of the strut tubes. I also need to machine some of the spacers for the axles and the mustache bars.

 

Overall I'm pretty close though. I have axle stubs from 2 people right now, anyone else that is interested needs to go ahead and send me their stubs, as I will be getting the ones I have welded up this week sometime. Rotor hats as well for those going with the wilwood brakes.

 

The catch with the mustang stuff, is the centerbore of the rotor is too small to fit over the dodge hub, so the rotor will have to be machined to fit over the hub. Not a huge deal, any machine shop should be able to do it in 5 minutes, so maybe a $20 ordeal when you need new rotors. But it looks like it should work fine with that being the only catch. The stuff blkmgk sent me is from Silvermine motors which uses the 05+ GT rear brakes. The rear rotor is very shallow which makes it fit well with my setup.

 

I am also doing a setup with BC racing coil overs which is going to work well. I just weld my tabs on the bottom of the tube that normally welds to the uprights, and it will just bolt up to my upright instead.

 

Should have kits ready to roll out in a few weeks.

 

-Will

post-27433-0-18197600-1436759672_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-11318300-1436759676_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-85719000-1436759679_thumb.jpg

post-27433-0-63239600-1436759683_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×