crapforum Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 (edited) It all began with a perfectly functional 73 240z which I planned to drive while I put a turbocharged LY6 in my Camaro. Time went on, the Camaro got sold and the juiced up V8 needed a home. Being that it was a truck motor and I wanted to keep the stock accessories and utilize AC I went the CX Racing route (cause I really didn't want to chop a corner off my block for that passenger side motor mount). The kit came with motor mounts, trans mount, full length headers, header gaskets, and full exhaust with v-bands. Things needed are motor mount bolts (the ones to the engine block), 2x bolt and nut to fasten the motor mounts to the motor mount towers, 2x bolt and nut to mount tranny mount to the tranny mount connection point, 2x bolt and nut to mount tranny mount through the tranny tunnel. Who needs a 2.4 when you have a 6.0 First thing to do for the swap is to remove the factory motor mounts, secured by one bolt underneath them. Mine both rounded out after a few turns which resulted in one of my fingers getting sliced really deep, had to saw out the old rubber mounts and grind the bolt out from above. In the end you get this: Next step is to grind the crap out of the stock transmission mounting tabs. This part was by far the most annoying part of getting the motor in. The tranny will collide with these if you don't grind enough. Check out CXRacings youtube video and look VERY close to get a feel for just how much metal you need to remove. Another thing that needs to be removed on the TR6060 is the CAGS solenoid which otherwise collides with the stock tranny mounting tabs (Dorman part 090-040 will plug this hole). You can see the CAGS solenoid hitting below, also note that I had to take a good bit more metal off the tabs before I got the tranny to fit. Heres a shot of where the tranny lines up with the shifter hole, it looks like I will need to shorten the stock TR6060 linkage an inch to get it to fit, 2 inches to get it centered (stock shifter pokes out from the back of the tranny about 1.5") A note on the engine mounting plates the kit provides, I ended up with mine using the 2nd from the back mounting hole. Seems you can't use many that bring the engine farther forward because then the tr6060 case hits the tranny mounting tabs. As you can see with the picture showing the CAGS when the tailhousing portion of the tranny bolts on it protrudes a good bit, to get the tranny in you have to put it far back enough to get that protrusion in front of the tranny mounting tabs which equated to the 2nd bolt hole back on the motor mounting plates. You could also move the tranny forward an extra 2" or so to put it in front of these tabs, but then you lose some weight distribution (but can utilize stock TR6060 shifter). Heres how it sits now, will try to get tranny crossmember mounted soon (seems it will work with TR6060 if I drill new holes that bolt to the transmission's rubber mount) and also set the headers in. Edited March 22, 2015 by crapforum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Merrill Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 (edited) Perfect. I bought the same kit and I was thinking I would be the first one to get it in place but its still too cold to work in the garage. Keep posting updates! Do you think the 1.5 primary headers will be big enough? Can I ask a favor? Measure from the valley tray to the bottom of the hood latch. I want to order a Mid-ride Holley intake but I'm not sure it would fit. Edited March 22, 2015 by Ryan Merrill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 That may be the cleanest Z I've seen swapped! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Merrill Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 That may be the cleanest Z I've seen swapped! I was thinking the same thing lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 Perfect. I bought the same kit and I was thinking I would be the first one to get it in place but its still too cold to work in the garage. Keep posting updates! Do you think the 1.5 primary headers will be big enough? Can I ask a favor? Measure from the valley tray to the bottom of the hood latch. I want to order a Mid-ride Holley intake but I'm not sure it would fit. It looks like 5" to the bottom of the latch to the valley, the headers seem plenty big (1.65" OD) and the car is not quite as clean as it looks. The rear fender flares both have a good amount of bondo on them as do the corners of each of the door rockers, but overall it is pretty solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Subscribed. Thanks for creating a build log and being the first to dive in on this kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 I've seen the jci kit use the block plug near the mount for water temp adapter and sending unit. From what I can tell, the cx mount will cover this area...... What are you planning for water temp sending unit location? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 (edited) Tried to get the headers and tranny cross member in today. Looks like for the headers I'll have to pull off the starter on the passenger side to get it in and the steering rod on the drivers side to get it in. The crossmember does look like it can be easily modified to work with the TR6060, everything lines up I just need to drill another slot to get the tranny mount screws to go through. As you can see the TR6060 has two mounting screws. When I mocked it up it looked like all I need is to add a slot next to the slot on the right, the leftmost slot seemed to line up with one of the two bolts on the TR6060. I plan to tap into the factory sensors for the gauges, if that proves to difficult I'll try to splice off of the factory coolant temp sensor in the drivers head, and if that fails I'll add a sensor on the passenger side head bung. One thing to note is that most of the front half of the CX racing motor mount plates can just be chopped off since you will probably end up using the furthest back bolt holes only. Edited March 22, 2015 by crapforum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Will you be able to run a low mount alternator with the motor mount plate cut back ? Thanks for updates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hwvigo Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Following this, just lunched the sbc in my its LS time and this looks like it will give some good info keep up the clean work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 Will you be able to run a low mount alternator with the motor mount plate cut back ? Thanks for updates. I'm not sure, the cxmounts angle back toward the firewall off of the stock mount towers, if the low mount alternator could fit without hitting the stock motor mounts thenn it should work. On another note progress has been very slow, planned to use a 2010 camaro clutch master cylinder, and driveshaft. Turns out the clutch master will not work since it bolts from the inside of the firewall and doesn't have enough room in there to fully extend its rod, and the stock camaro 2 piece driveshaft is much to long, so long actually that just the front half alone reaches the read diff. I went ahead and bought a Tilton clutch and a bunch of fittings for the transmission. Seems the TR6060 has a built in pump that routes to a cooler, on top of that it doesn't use the standard 1/4" NPS plug that all automatics have been using, seems to be some odd tiny bit larger than 1/4" plug. Also none of the stock truck accessories work, the alternator pokes out about 2 inches above the hoodline, the AC compressor bracket will bolt in but the AC compressor hits the stock motor mount towers, the power steering pump clears but that is not used The stock truck intake hits the hood latch in the back and also protrudes above the hoodline some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Merrill Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Thanks for the info. I not far behind your build and mine is very similar. I pretty much knew that I would require an intake swap. I wanted to fit the Holley mini-ram intake but its about as high as the truck intake (just under 10" tall). I'm trying to find a solution to a low mount alternator or a passenger side mount. If you figure anything out let me know. I dont want the expensive of buying the camaro accessories. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) I ordered this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/131454778801?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT which I hope will work. It spaces the alternator forward to line up with the truck pulley, so looks like clearance behind the alternator is no issue, just hope it can clear the driver frame rail. I'll comment on fitment when it arrives (probably Monday). Looking for an LS3 intake now to use, seems easier then modifying the hood lol. Also looks like I can get the stock shifter to fit if I cut back the shifter opening some more, looks like it will just be able to fit in the stock center console. Edited April 1, 2015 by crapforum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackzpeed Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 nice find... hope that works out. The low mount alternator (Camaro) clears the stock mount on JCI kit...... I was under the impression the CX kit would need a high mount set-up (I've sourced a good and cheap fix for that if needed) and I know this is the case for the Dingo mounts. Thanks again for updates, you are blazing a new trail with the CX kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 Well the alternator mounting bracket came in. Some good and bad news, good news is the alternator clears the frame rail and everything else, bad news is that the kit doesn't space the alternator far enough forward to line up with the pulley. Contacting seller to see if I can have that resolved, otherwise I'll just slip in some washers to space it. Another thing about it is it hits the VVT plug unless you flip it upside down. Also got the driver side header in. Needed to remove the steering shaft as well as the oil filter. Was a pain to get it in but once in there there is a good amount of wiggle room to bolt it up. Noticed that the header just barely clears the little cup things that poke off the frame rail to hold that suspension tension rod. Seems if you move the engine any further forwards than where I am (the second from last mounting bolt) then you will hit it. Will have a LS3 intake here in a day or two, and also picking up the fuel module out of a 5th gen Camaro that I'm gona put in the gas tank to fix the whole poorly baffled tank and lack of fuel system I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 (edited) Only needing to remove the steering shaft and oil filter is a good deal-on my S-10 you have to remove the whole front cap of the truck and the engine to install the headers! I think I'm gonna have to do that much just to change a spark plug or spark plug wire!. You can cut that little cup thingie off-it is super thin sheetmetal-so thin that it can't have much contribution. It is also a good justification to let yourself splurge on some aftermarket adjustable TC rods which eliminate that big rubber bushing and you sure don't need the cup thingie then. Glad it is going well! Edited April 5, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistafosta Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Well the alternator mounting bracket came in. Some good and bad news, good news is the alternator clears the frame rail and everything else, bad news is that the kit doesn't space the alternator far enough forward to line up with the pulley. Contacting seller to see if I can have that resolved, otherwise I'll just slip in some washers to space it. Another thing about it is it hits the VVT plug unless you flip it upside down. Also got the driver side header in. Needed to remove the steering shaft as well as the oil filter. Was a pain to get it in but once in there there is a good amount of wiggle room to bolt it up. Noticed that the header just barely clears the little cup things that poke off the frame rail to hold that suspension tension rod. Seems if you move the engine any further forwards than where I am (the second from last mounting bolt) then you will hit it. Will have a LS3 intake here in a day or two, and also picking up the fuel module out of a 5th gen Camaro that I'm gona put in the gas tank to fix the whole poorly baffled tank and lack of fuel system I have. That looks like its a camaro depth mount, not a truck depth. Maybe they shipped the wrong one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted April 6, 2015 Author Share Posted April 6, 2015 That looks like its a camaro depth mount, not a truck depth. Maybe they shipped the wrong one... Yeah I contacted the seller and they are shipping some new spacers. Also got myself a LS3 intake take off and put it on as well as the camaro fuel sending unit. Should be easy enough to get this fit into the stock tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmeone Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 hey crapforum, where about in NC are you? i'm starting my LS1 swap soon as well and is in the charlotte area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted April 6, 2015 Author Share Posted April 6, 2015 I am in the RTP area so about 2 hours out from Charlotte. Do you have a motor yet? You can PM me about questions and such. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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