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hwvigo

CD009 6M (350Z trans) with LS engine in a S30

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hwvigo    1

Its time for some changes in my Z due to a knock in the bottom end. I have made the decisions to go the LS route with a manual trans. and i am doing research and  getting all my ducks in a row start spending money. I have see sights were people are putting a 350Z/370Z CD009 trans behind there LS. I did some digging and found that a adapter plat is made by Collins performance technologies  . The 350z has a great shifting trans and is much cheaper then a T56 and can take abuse, but I have never seen this combo in a S30  if you have even seen this please let me know of if you can think of any pluses or minuses to this idea chime in please!

 

Thanks Will S.

 

post-19246-0-34556400-1427376363_thumb.jpg cd009 with adapter 

 

post-19246-0-07798900-1427376833_thumb.jpg CD009

post-19246-0-98279000-1427376833_thumb.jpg   CD009

post-19246-0-87199200-1427376834_thumb.jpg CD009 

 

post-19246-0-74559400-1427376835_thumb.jpg T56

Edited by hwvigo

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Six_Shooter    13

I support this. I had a similar idea to keep the 280ZX trans in my car (240Z), but decided to go with a Z32 trans behind my LX9. I made an adapter plate to use between the engine and trans instead of cutting off the bellhousing. 

 

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Edited by Six_Shooter

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Gus    0

I'm actually doing the exact same swap. I'm starting with a cammed 4.8 and CD009. If it holds I'll be adding some boost. I have already ordered and received the Collins adapter. I'm using a GPS speedometer since there is no VSS on the trans but still need to find a way to get a signal to the ECM. I guess the LS ecm can have some drive ability problems if they do not have a signal.

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Gus    0

Well I finally got the bell housing cut off last night and everything fit great. I'm really impressed with the quality of the adapter. The only think I had to do was take a reamer and open the dowel hole a few thousandths. I just used a cut off wheel to get rid of the original bell housing and then used a new T56 bell from american power train. All the bolts were labeled great and start to finish it only took about 1.5 hours to do the swap.. The biggest fear is the cutting part so just go slow and you'll be fine.

 

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Gus    0

Fro the center of the shifter hole to the bell housing face its 38". That's with the stock shifter support bracket. I think I can take 4 " out of that to make it make compact. Also I'm using the dirty dingo mounts which should help with lining things up. I got the slave modified for a remote bleeder and 3 -an main line. Hopefully I can get it sitting in the car by the end of the weekend.

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LLave    15

I love that it is something different. I have not done this swap myself so this is a bit of speculation, however, I am not convinced that it is that much more economical if you are starting with nothing. $500 adapter, $500 used trans, T56 bellhousing, labor and consumables for the mod. You can probably just buy a T56 for not much more. I came to the same conclusion after researching the R154 swap option. 

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Gus    0

Yea thanks, I should have just about 1200 in it including the clutch and flywheel. I can never find deals on T56's so looking at new ones that dont come with a bellhousing this is a bargain. I guess its all how lucky you are when searching forum classifieds or Craigslist.I have a 4L65 I was going to put in that I pulled from my Silverado but I had to keep the man petal.

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NewZed    56

Doesn't the adapter change the loads across the engine transmission interface?  What used to be handled by the outer shell, or bell housing, with good leverage, down to the front cover bolts, which are on a smaller circle.  If I understand the concept correctly.  The front cover probably isn't designed for those loads, although it may be fine.  Worth keeping an eye on.

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Gus    0

No, I feel bad for hijacking post, but I wanted to share all the information I have so far. Never thought about the load point before so I'll keep an eye on it once shes going down the road! Maybe I should start my own build thread but its really not that exciting compared to some of the other amazing cars on the site!

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LLave    15

No, I feel bad for hijacking post, but I wanted to share all the information I have so far. Never thought about the load point before so I'll keep an eye on it once shes going down the road! Maybe I should start my own build thread but its really not that exciting compared to some of the other amazing cars on the site!

 

Your post seemed to be very on topic to me. Thanks for sharing. 

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JoeK    2

When you can find them, used T56's seem like a steal at $1500 these days. Most seem to go for $1800ish. Saving $600 samoleans would be nice for those if us with less cash than time. So I'm certainly interested to see where this leads.

 

Quick research last night on the internet (for what that's worth) informed me that the early CD009's didn't hold up very well to high power, but 2005 or later are supposed to be solid.

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Gus    0

Joek - What I found was the 03-04 CD001 had a syncro issue and they had several variations of that CDxxx until they got to the CD009 which was the later transmissions I believe 06+. I'll keep everyone updated and I'm thinking with such a light car and mild build I should be ok. I'm just building a street machine that I can get in and drive anywhere so traction most likely will be an issue before anything else.

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Gus    0

So I got the engine in and handed my shifter bracket off to a friend that works a fab shop. He looked at the shortening services and he said that it wouldn't be a problem. Using the dirty dingo mounts I slid the engine back as far as it would go. Here are a few pics from the install and I just need to adjust the mounts a bit since the tailshaft is a few degrees off center.

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