crapforum Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Ok so as you guys know the battery sits on the passenger side and with the stock motor the positive lead ran straight to the starter. With a V8 in there now there is a nice red hot header that is between the battery and the cable. Question is do you guys run a longer battery + cable around the header or do you go through the header and use some sort of insulation. With either of the said option what are the results? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistafosta Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 If you keep it on the back firewall its still far enough from the header that it works fine on the JCI kit. What setup are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted April 18, 2015 Author Share Posted April 18, 2015 Im using the CXRacing kit with the headers they have: Clearance is similar to going between primaries as going behind on the firewall side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistafosta Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Ouch, clearance sucks. I would run the cable directly over the starter, then up the side where the block and trans meet (Maybe using an isolation clamp to bolt it to one of the trans mounting bolts, then across the gap 4+ inches over those headers. Wouldn't hurt to look into using a heat wrap either. (You can get the slip on non metallic covers from any hose building store) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 I agree, run the wire close to the bellhousing and crossover to the battery. I run the bendable boot spark plug wires from msd I believe and they're awesome. The main reason was to not sit the wires on the headers and I also used those red plug boot heat sleeves. One of them sits on the header, changed from red to white but no damage to the boot or the insulators. They just work and that's after nearly 10k miles. Those headers do look pretty sweet though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistafosta Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 I agree, run the wire close to the bellhousing and crossover to the battery. I run the bendable boot spark plug wires from msd I believe and they're awesome. The main reason was to not sit the wires on the headers and I also used those red plug boot heat sleeves. One of them sits on the header, changed from red to white but no damage to the boot or the insulators. They just work and that's after nearly 10k miles. Those headers do look pretty sweet though! Yeah, I use the same wires, with the fiberglass heat sleeves. On my blower setup they work for about 10k miles before the boot breaks down inside. (Due to the awful JCI header setup and about 800hp going through them) On my manifold turbo setup they last great so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zfan1 Posted April 19, 2015 Share Posted April 19, 2015 My battery sits in the back of the car so no issues there. I use the Taylor 10mm plug wires. My MSD wires always cooked and came apart real fast even when using the sleeves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 Thanks for all the recommendations, I went and ran the positive over top of the starter, seems it will do okay. The issue was that if I have the battery cable going straight up and over the starter then the metal foot on the cable end would be very close to the pin on the starter that tells the starter solenoid to kick on. I had to bend the metal foot to point sideways to keep it clear from that solenoid pin, but this places it towards the header. I'll post a picture later today. My battery sits in the back of the car so no issues there. I use the Taylor 10mm plug wires. My MSD wires always cooked and came apart real fast even when using the sleeves. I know exactly what you mean with the MSD wires, I HATE THEM. I had them on my 78 Camaro and even with plug boots they would melt, I blame myself for buying into the heavy advertising MSD does. I went with Taylor plugs as well and they were excellent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistafosta Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 I know exactly what you mean with the MSD wires, I HATE THEM. I had them on my 78 Camaro and even with plug boots they would melt, I blame myself for buying into the heavy advertising MSD does. I went with Taylor plugs as well and they were excellent. That's so strange cause the msds are the only ones I can get to work well on my car haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Man Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 (edited) I too looked at the CRX Racing setup and decided against it. As you are experiencing now clearance is a real problem with their kit. The JCI kit has some tight tolerances also especially for us using the Sanderson headers. Living in California, JCI headers are unavailable to us, which are a much better fit. You've come this far using their products so congrats to you. On your build, move your brake line(Passanger side) to the top of tthe frame rail and back towards the fender as far as possible. Take your time it will move for you! Get it away from your bare headers. Also Summit Racing sells a flexible oil dip stick for our LS1 engines, its Lokar ED-5008. Anyway, good luck with the Build and enjoy the Ride! Edited April 20, 2015 by Old Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Merrill Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Those are only 1 5/8 primary tube headers correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted April 21, 2015 Author Share Posted April 21, 2015 (edited) Those are only 1 5/8 primary tube headers correct? Supposed to be 1.65" which is a tiny bit larger than 1 5/8 I too looked at the CRX Racing setup and decided against it. As you are experiencing now clearance is a real problem with their kit. The JCI kit has some tight tolerances also especially for us using the Sanderson headers. Living in California, JCI headers are unavailable to us, which are a much better fit. You've come this far using their products so congrats to you. On your build, move your brake line(Passanger side) to the top of tthe frame rail and back towards the fender as far as possible. Take your time it will move for you! Get it away from your bare headers. Also Summit Racing sells a flexible oil dip stick for our LS1 engines, its Lokar ED-5008. Anyway, good luck with the Build and enjoy the Ride! Yeah I will have to move that brake line, but the stock truck dipstick did fit just fine! Below you can see the clearances I was talking about, I will probably buy a heat reflective starter blanket as added protection. Hopefully the MSD wires are more heat resistant now, the ones I had that were melting were about 7 years ago! Edited April 21, 2015 by crapforum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistafosta Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 I too looked at the CRX Racing setup and decided against it. As you are experiencing now clearance is a real problem with their kit. The JCI kit has some tight tolerances also especially for us using the Sanderson headers. Living in California, JCI headers are unavailable to us, which are a much better fit. You've come this far using their products so congrats to you. On your build, move your brake line(Passanger side) to the top of tthe frame rail and back towards the fender as far as possible. Take your time it will move for you! Get it away from your bare headers. Also Summit Racing sells a flexible oil dip stick for our LS1 engines, its Lokar ED-5008. Anyway, good luck with the Build and enjoy the Ride! They won't sell them in cali? Call jtr or Sanderson, they should do it. Just tell them it's a track only car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted April 26, 2015 Author Share Posted April 26, 2015 Wanted to update and say that I have my wires how I think they will last. Have the power going over top the starter and then power going out from the started to the front of the motor and across. Had to bend the terminals for the power cables at 90* to make them route good. Wrapped them in insulator sleeves and then wrapped the started in a insulator blanket. Both are some sorta fiberglass weave with aluminized outside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 Good move. Mine weren't insulated initially and the header burned through them in about a year. They're insulated now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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