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HybridZ

///M powered Z


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Been a while since I updated this, I sold the early Z so all my attention is back on the MZ now.

I got the throttle bodies torn down, cleaned and coated with Por15 Glisten, very tough stuff.

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Here is the 1972 Z that will be the MZ, later after I get the the driveline fitted I'll be taking the shell down to the chemical strippers to have it dipped, that will save me months of cleaning and stripping and hopefully will get the smell of mouse piss out of the car.

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Found a 1981 MOMO steering wheel at a swapmeet, it will go well with the 350Z seats and leather interior.post-28202-0-00286500-1465771135_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-12319600-1465771745_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-17486000-1465771781_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-16113200-1465771936_thumb.jpg

 

I got the engine test rig built and have almost finished the wiring to get the engine running then I'll need to integrate the Datsun harness so the two work together.

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The Speedhut gauges arrived and they fit perfectly into the gutted housings of the gauges I am replacing.post-28202-0-40529800-1465772486_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-24815100-1465772516_thumb.jpg

Edited by grannyknot
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You'll be very happy with the Glisten PC, Chris.  I did my Mikunis with the stuff just over a year ago, and while I was changing the venturi in them tonight I gave them a good look over and wipe down - they still look exactly like they did the day I coated them, no flaking, no yellowing, perfection!  Great product.  

Smart work on the test rig, should save your back from a lot of pain, and streamline the wiring process quite a bit!  

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Smart work on the test rig, should save your back from a lot of pain, and streamline the wiring process quite a bit!  

Thanks guys, you know even with the everything exposed on the test rig with easy access to every part and wire it's still a feat of patience and concentration to run through every wiring path and system. I think it would have a been a bit of a nightmare to have just dropped the engine in and then try and figure it all out. I think I may be able to start the engine up by the weekend, just have to wire the gauges in now .

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I got the engine turning over and figured out that a lost burglar alarm wire was preventing power from getting to the main relay but now the fuel pump relay is being difficult, I have pwr on #30 and pwr on #86 but not #87, I can jumper between #86 and #87 and the pump works fine, I have tried 4 known working relays with the same result,  I'm shaking my head. The last pic is the diagram of the bmw wires coming into the 240Z, now I'm thinking maybe that #3 Injection signal is connected to the fuel relay some how.

I don't have the bmw instrument cluster anymore so I not really sure why the injection signal in needed inside the cab.

I know it looks like a rats nest of wires but they are all secure and wrapped. The fire extinguisher canister is actually a pressurized pre-oiler.

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Not having much luck getting the M6 engine going, the ECU is not allowing the fuel pump relay to ground and even with a work around to get the pumps working the ECU is also not sending  the pulses to the fuel injectors or power to the Idle control valve. Hitting my head against the wall so I thought I would do something fun like cut into the gas tank. I got the tank back from the chemical dip place, they did a very nice job so now I need to weld in the seat for the bmw fuel pump.post-28202-0-61030000-1466808943_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-45794700-1466808970_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-72238300-1466808990_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-75205300-1466809030_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-74611100-1466809063_thumb.jpg

I even used Nissan cardboard for the template just to keep everything original :P

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have tossed the entire Motronic ECU in the trash,  farting around with an old unsupported ECU is just a waste of time.

Have just ordered all of the MegaSquirt stuff from DIYAutoTune.com

Here is the list, I'm happy to listen to any tips or tricks from you MS guys.

 

MS2357-C MegaSquirt-II PCB v3.57 (SMT) Engine Management
System w/ black case

Jumper for VR input.
MOD_2357IGN1 Modify Megasquirt-II V3.57 for single Bosch BIP373
ignition output on pin 36.
Uses JS10 for spark A output pin. Spark output needs to
be set to Going High.

JimStim-C JimStim v1.5 Assembled Unit
'JimStim' Stimulator with Wheel Simulator version 1.5

MSRelay-C MegaSquirt Relay and Power Board - Complete
Assembled Unit

MSRelayCable 4' MegaSquirt Relay Cable 1 85.00 85.00T
LG-WireBund 10 foot (3.0 meter) bundle of prelabled TXL automotive
wire.

IATwPiggy GM Open Element IAT sensor with 6' pigtail
38NPT-Bung_A 3/8' NPT Aluminum Bung, with galvanized steel plug.
Perfect for welding onto intake/coolant plumbing for
IAT/CLT sensors.

TuneCable6 6' Ft DB9 Male / Female STRAIGHT THRU
WB-O2BP Mild Steel 18x1.5 thread- chamfered both sides.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Look what came in the mail,

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Here is the finished tank ready for install,

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Now that I'm changing the ECU I took the opportunity to change over to high impedance injectors and bumped up the flow from stock 24lb to 30lb, that will give me a bit more room to push up the power output.post-28202-0-31859400-1469492162_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-70501600-1469492174_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Spent the last month cursing Megasquirt but finally got the engine to idle yesterday so there is hope yet. Got he Z into the garage and started digging for rust, didn't have to look too hard. Found some 1st class repair work along with some previous occupants.

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Picked up some new wheels and some repair panels from Tabco.

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Nice project! I had a 84 BMW E28 with a S38B38 in. We still have a couple of S38 engines in the shed and my brother has a S38 turbo in his 85 E28. You should fit euro headers on it, these US manifolds hold back some HP.

I would love to but you should see what they cost over here, that would be very expensive HP.

 

I wouldn't bother with that tabco rear corner. Compare it to the original, you'll see that the shape is quite a bit different. I was pretty disappointed when I found that out.

I noticed that when I held it up to the rear quarter, luckily I only need the part right near wheel well lip so I should be able to make it work.

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  • 1 month later...

Have got a bunch of stuff done since my last post, installed the TTT offset tierods to compensate for the the lowered steering rack,post-28202-0-70938700-1476313764_thumb.jpg

Built the engine and transmission mounts and modified the crossmember,post-28202-0-11519300-1476313882_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-36844100-1476313909_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-71490600-1476313946_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-40099400-1476313996_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-03541700-1476314010_thumb.jpg

So here is the room left to play with, about a 1/2" between the top of the engine and the hood and about the same with the oil pan and Xmember, post-28202-0-16827700-1476314044_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-40919000-1476314108_thumb.jpg

Built a skid plate to protect the oil pan, post-28202-0-55323800-1476314135_thumb.jpg

Lower radiator mounts are finished, post-28202-0-12449700-1476314169_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-70572800-1476314186_thumb.jpg

and have finished installing the electric power steering,post-28202-0-75502800-1476314243_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-03429900-1476314284_thumb.jpg

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Great work on fabricating everything up, great build so far.

the gauges in that dash fit perfectly. Did you use 4.5" and 2 5/8"? Did you end up buying an electric power steering kit or did you find bits and parts, what made you want to go electric power steering? 

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Great work on fabricating everything up, great build so far.

the gauges in that dash fit perfectly. Did you use 4.5" and 2 5/8"? Did you end up buying an electric power steering kit or did you find bits and parts, what made you want to go electric power steering? 

Thanks, so far I'm really happy with the Speedhut gauges, they are 4.5" and 2 5/8th.

I built the power steering up out of parts from the wreckers and 1/8th steel plate, I have a detailed DIY description here,

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56267-new-power-steering-option/

The bmw engine is about 90lbs more than the L engine so I thought it would be nice for parking lots and if I can get my wife to drive it.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Well I have finally finish installing the drive line, engine mounts, transmission mount, drive shaft and diff are all in and I think, are perfectly a lined. As best as I can measure it I think I'm within half a degree in both axis. So hopefully the drive line will be vibration free :unsure:   Also got the oil cooler plumbed in, the accelerator linkage installed and air filter sorta finished. As much as I hate K&N filters I bought one anyway, after spending lots of money and time trying build or adapt a paper filter airbox that just didn't work.

The K&N filter will get me on the road until I can figure something else out.

This is the adapter I built to join the bmw drive shaft/CV joint to the Nissan rear end and it is as near a copy as I could make to the one Ron Taylor amde for his bmw/datsun swap.

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Lokar cable,

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Got all of the fixings for a 3" SS Vibrant exhaust system, post-28202-0-67848600-1479165429_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-96894400-1479165462_thumb.jpg

Finished building the battery box, post-28202-0-03262900-1479165511_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-29028900-1479165545_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-11792400-1479165565_thumb.jpg

Got rid of the torsion spring hood opener and installed hydraulic springs, post-28202-0-44719100-1479165603_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-95726600-1479165645_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-26370700-1479165669_thumb.jpg

 

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