Jump to content
HybridZ
grannyknot

///M powered Z

Recommended Posts

Not having much luck getting the M6 engine going, the ECU is not allowing the fuel pump relay to ground and even with a work around to get the pumps working the ECU is also not sending  the pulses to the fuel injectors or power to the Idle control valve. Hitting my head against the wall so I thought I would do something fun like cut into the gas tank. I got the tank back from the chemical dip place, they did a very nice job so now I need to weld in the seat for the bmw fuel pump.post-28202-0-61030000-1466808943_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-45794700-1466808970_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-72238300-1466808990_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-75205300-1466809030_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-74611100-1466809063_thumb.jpg

I even used Nissan cardboard for the template just to keep everything original :P

post-28202-0-17255700-1466809090_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-62739000-1466809108_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-13062000-1466809126_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have tossed the entire Motronic ECU in the trash,  farting around with an old unsupported ECU is just a waste of time.

Have just ordered all of the MegaSquirt stuff from DIYAutoTune.com

Here is the list, I'm happy to listen to any tips or tricks from you MS guys.

 

MS2357-C MegaSquirt-II PCB v3.57 (SMT) Engine Management
System w/ black case

Jumper for VR input.
MOD_2357IGN1 Modify Megasquirt-II V3.57 for single Bosch BIP373
ignition output on pin 36.
Uses JS10 for spark A output pin. Spark output needs to
be set to Going High.

JimStim-C JimStim v1.5 Assembled Unit
'JimStim' Stimulator with Wheel Simulator version 1.5

MSRelay-C MegaSquirt Relay and Power Board - Complete
Assembled Unit

MSRelayCable 4' MegaSquirt Relay Cable 1 85.00 85.00T
LG-WireBund 10 foot (3.0 meter) bundle of prelabled TXL automotive
wire.

IATwPiggy GM Open Element IAT sensor with 6' pigtail
38NPT-Bung_A 3/8' NPT Aluminum Bung, with galvanized steel plug.
Perfect for welding onto intake/coolant plumbing for
IAT/CLT sensors.

TuneCable6 6' Ft DB9 Male / Female STRAIGHT THRU
WB-O2BP Mild Steel 18x1.5 thread- chamfered both sides.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Look what came in the mail,

post-28202-0-70839600-1469491955_thumb.jpg

Here is the finished tank ready for install,

post-28202-0-74004100-1469492074_thumb.jpg

Now that I'm changing the ECU I took the opportunity to change over to high impedance injectors and bumped up the flow from stock 24lb to 30lb, that will give me a bit more room to push up the power output.post-28202-0-31859400-1469492162_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-70501600-1469492174_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Spent the last month cursing Megasquirt but finally got the engine to idle yesterday so there is hope yet. Got he Z into the garage and started digging for rust, didn't have to look too hard. Found some 1st class repair work along with some previous occupants.

post-28202-0-57461400-1472684260_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-56721100-1472684372_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-47023700-1472684501_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-69235300-1472684567_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-11483800-1472684616_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-55170800-1472684655_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-18696500-1472684688_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-83548800-1472684985_thumb.jpg

Picked up some new wheels and some repair panels from Tabco.

post-28202-0-35102500-1472684722_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-60229200-1472684760_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice project! I had a 84 BMW E28 with a S38B38 in. We still have a couple of S38 engines in the shed and my brother has a S38 turbo in his 85 E28. You should fit euro headers on it, these US manifolds hold back some HP.

I would love to but you should see what they cost over here, that would be very expensive HP.

 

I wouldn't bother with that tabco rear corner. Compare it to the original, you'll see that the shape is quite a bit different. I was pretty disappointed when I found that out.

I noticed that when I held it up to the rear quarter, luckily I only need the part right near wheel well lip so I should be able to make it work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have got a bunch of stuff done since my last post, installed the TTT offset tierods to compensate for the the lowered steering rack,post-28202-0-70938700-1476313764_thumb.jpg

Built the engine and transmission mounts and modified the crossmember,post-28202-0-11519300-1476313882_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-36844100-1476313909_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-71490600-1476313946_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-40099400-1476313996_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-03541700-1476314010_thumb.jpg

So here is the room left to play with, about a 1/2" between the top of the engine and the hood and about the same with the oil pan and Xmember, post-28202-0-16827700-1476314044_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-40919000-1476314108_thumb.jpg

Built a skid plate to protect the oil pan, post-28202-0-55323800-1476314135_thumb.jpg

Lower radiator mounts are finished, post-28202-0-12449700-1476314169_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-70572800-1476314186_thumb.jpg

and have finished installing the electric power steering,post-28202-0-75502800-1476314243_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-03429900-1476314284_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great work on fabricating everything up, great build so far.

the gauges in that dash fit perfectly. Did you use 4.5" and 2 5/8"? Did you end up buying an electric power steering kit or did you find bits and parts, what made you want to go electric power steering? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great work on fabricating everything up, great build so far.

the gauges in that dash fit perfectly. Did you use 4.5" and 2 5/8"? Did you end up buying an electric power steering kit or did you find bits and parts, what made you want to go electric power steering? 

Thanks, so far I'm really happy with the Speedhut gauges, they are 4.5" and 2 5/8th.

I built the power steering up out of parts from the wreckers and 1/8th steel plate, I have a detailed DIY description here,

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56267-new-power-steering-option/

The bmw engine is about 90lbs more than the L engine so I thought it would be nice for parking lots and if I can get my wife to drive it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I have finally finish installing the drive line, engine mounts, transmission mount, drive shaft and diff are all in and I think, are perfectly a lined. As best as I can measure it I think I'm within half a degree in both axis. So hopefully the drive line will be vibration free :unsure:   Also got the oil cooler plumbed in, the accelerator linkage installed and air filter sorta finished. As much as I hate K&N filters I bought one anyway, after spending lots of money and time trying build or adapt a paper filter airbox that just didn't work.

The K&N filter will get me on the road until I can figure something else out.

This is the adapter I built to join the bmw drive shaft/CV joint to the Nissan rear end and it is as near a copy as I could make to the one Ron Taylor amde for his bmw/datsun swap.

post-28202-0-62078300-1479165143_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-63499100-1479165261_thumb.jpg

Lokar cable,

post-28202-0-37132000-1479165221_thumb.jpg post-28202-0-08509700-1479165322_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-30036900-1479165363_thumb.jpg post-28202-0-75217100-1479165705_thumb.jpg

Got all of the fixings for a 3" SS Vibrant exhaust system, post-28202-0-67848600-1479165429_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-96894400-1479165462_thumb.jpg

Finished building the battery box, post-28202-0-03262900-1479165511_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-29028900-1479165545_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-11792400-1479165565_thumb.jpg

Got rid of the torsion spring hood opener and installed hydraulic springs, post-28202-0-44719100-1479165603_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-95726600-1479165645_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-26370700-1479165669_thumb.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Strong Arm 4477N10 Gas Charged Lift Support 10176N10W

I ordered 2 of these from these guys, https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/strong-arm-4477n10-gas-charged-ball-socket-lift-struts-supports-10176n10w/ and a pak of 4 ball studs, the struts are 43lb and hold the hood any position 16" or higher, below that and the weight of the hood takes over and it closes. I'm pretty happy with it, here are a few more pics,

post-28202-0-58938500-1479250748_thumb.jpg

post-28202-0-48261600-1479250766_thumb.jpg

post-28202-0-25789100-1479250809_thumb.jpg

post-28202-0-52552300-1479250827_thumb.jpg

post-28202-0-63677300-1479250855_thumb.jpg

post-28202-0-22363200-1479250889_thumb.jpg

post-28202-0-34447100-1479250911_thumb.jpg

post-28202-0-27970700-1479250932_thumb.jpg

Edited by grannyknot

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the exhaust system built, welded and hung last week, hopefully it won't be too loud but I really wanted to eliminate the back pressure that the stock exhaust had.

The whole system is from Vibrant, 2 Ultra quiet straight through resonators welded together, 1in 2out ultra quiet straight through muffler, 4 mandrel bent 3" pipes and the collector I made.

post-28202-0-61824200-1480290468_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-32990100-1480290502_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-64440200-1480290559_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-44243500-1480290578_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-74369900-1480290614_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-96894300-1480290639_thumb.jpgpost-28202-0-80297100-1480290655_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×