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TrackZpeeds CXRacing LS1 T56 240z

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In the beginning.... 72 rust free (for a Datsun) California Z

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Bits and pieces along the way (new struts, springs, air dam, wheels and tires, LSD R200 with AZC bar, bushings etc

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Ran the 240 with stock motor and an MSA header and exhaust in my local AutoX (11 y/o daughter ran her kart) and we both won our classes for the year....

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Picked up the little gem (98 LS1 T56 with 108K on the odo), to AutoX while the Z is getting prepped....

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And the games begin..

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CXracing Kit ordered and on its way.   Updates and a thousand questions to ask the Hybrid community as the build progresses. 

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Pair of LS1 T-56 Z's just 500 miles north in Yakima, WA.  You're going to have a great time.  What are your plans for the car besides the LS1 and the T56?

As budget allows in no particular order... Coil overs, 17 rota stagger with 245s front and 275 rears, bad dog frame supports, flares, victory spoiler, front and rear LCAs, stock gauges for now, weld in sump to stock tank with external pump and vette reg/filter strut tower supports (I like the new stuff from ttt) champion 3 or 4 row radiator, wiring specialties plug and play, brake upgrade, for starters ........ The list just never quits.

 

My goal is a clean swap with what I've got.. The LS is cammed but I don't know specs , with a really solid runner as she sits with 225 50 16 on 16x8 rotas and current suspension. I've got sparco seats in already with harness and I've been repairing the door panels. One she is on the road and sorted I will add go fast and handling parts as budget allows. Body and paint last, they must go before they show in my garage.

 

Thanks for the encouragement. Jim

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I hear you Richard but memories like these (father-daughter project Z) will last a life time...

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Just for grins and giggles, I pulled up my old FFR cobra to remind me of why I do this and keep my eye on prize...

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Hope to be cleaning up the engine bay on the Z this week. 

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Found my Sparco seat pics.... and another past project car (03 350Z, full race suspension with remote mount turbo at 12lbs)  I scattered the 350 motor at Thunderhill and lost the mojo for that car, which lead to the FFR, which gave way to soft finances and $2200 Z....

In the end, I will have less into the 240 (cough cough, yea right), and I hope it will out perform them both.  I must say it will be a tall order to make the Z as cool as the FFR.  Dang I miss that car!

 

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I remember that car.  Like you, I have an FFR in my garage since 1998 up until last November, Cobras, coupe GTM and all were fun.  BUT I have had about 6 Zs all of them 240s.  First one in 1984, (god I got old) and every time I get in it feels like home.  I am not ready to start a thread yet but will soon.  Richard. 

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As budget allows in no particular order... Coil overs, 17 rota stagger with 245s front and 275 rears, bad dog frame supports, flares, victory spoiler, front and rear LCAs, stock gauges for now, weld in sump to stock tank with external pump and vette reg/filter strut tower supports (I like the new stuff from ttt) champion 3 or 4 row radiator, wiring specialties plug and play, brake upgrade, for starters ........ The list just never quits.

 

Thanks for the encouragement. Jim

Body & Paint last is definitely the right way to go on a highly modified car.  With those tire sizes I assume you're running flares.  ZG or SCCA style?  Or are you thinking about a wide body kit? 

Suspension wise are you looking at TTT, AZ Zcar, other?  Are you contemplating the adjustable LCA's & T/C rods?

If you're sticking with the stock gauges you might want to get the light bulb upgrade from MSA that has higher wattage bulbs for a brighter dash. You'll have to remove the green lenses as the bulbs are bigger but I wanted to do that with mine anyway.  Also went with the white faced gauge kit from them.

275's on the rear on a 240 won't hold unless you get some really good tires - as in super sticky.

I assume you have front and rear strut tower supports since you've already been competing.  Are you going with the adjustable strut mods on the towers?  Weld in or bolt in? Since you're doing body work last I'd opt for the weld in.

One last question: Why did you go with the CX Racing stuff instead of another LS conversion kit? just curious.

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Go ahead and run your fuel lines, and move that passenger side brake line to the top of the frame rail while the motor is out, will save you a headache. Also check out CX Racing's youtube video on how much to grind down the stock tranny crossmember mounts and cutting that tranny tab off. Get rid of CAGS solenoid on the t56 as well with a drain plug.

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Perfect timing on your post.... I started cleaning up the engine bay and was wondering about that brake line for header clearance. I was planning on heat wrapping all my brake line to reduce the chance of boil at the track.... I assume I can remove all old fuel lines??? And also the old vacuum line running from the drivers side across the firewall and down into the tranny tunnel. It's all unbolted from the bay but I haven't traced it out from the tunnel yet....... Soccer practice tonight cut that short. I want to remove all unnecessary hardware from the engine bay, prep/detail/paint before I proceed.. Any advice and pointers as to what must go and stay is very welcome.

Thanks.

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Body & Paint last is definitely the right way to go on a highly modified car.  With those tire sizes I assume you're running flares.  ZG or SCCA style?  Or are you thinking about a wide body kit? 

Suspension wise are you looking at TTT, AZ Zcar, other?  Are you contemplating the adjustable LCA's & T/C rods?

If you're sticking with the stock gauges you might want to get the light bulb upgrade from MSA that has higher wattage bulbs for a brighter dash. You'll have to remove the green lenses as the bulbs are bigger but I wanted to do that with mine anyway.  Also went with the white faced gauge kit from them.

275's on the rear on a 240 won't hold unless you get some really good tires - as in super sticky.

I assume you have front and rear strut tower supports since you've already been competing.  Are you going with the adjustable strut mods on the towers?  Weld in or bolt in? Since you're doing body work last I'd opt for the weld in.

One last question: Why did you go with the CX Racing stuff instead of another LS conversion kit? just curious.

Zg flares. 200 tread wear or less tires, most likely ttt as they are close/ more local to me and use fully adjustable , bolt in camber plates, stock Gauges until I can afford complete change/upgrade .....

I went with cx kit based on a gut choice really..... I like the header to y pipe set up (doing my own exhaust back from there to tuck up a little tighter and better choice of muffler) I like the trans mount (seems super stout and supported) and the motor mounts are an easy install that allow for retention of low mount alternator. I just made a choice and pulled the trigger. Thanks for all the advice and keep it coming.

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Are you sure you want to go through a Y pipe to a single exhaust? Unless you run a 3 12" exhaust you'll be giving up some HP.

I went from the headers to an X pipe through dual 2 1/2" exhausts. I ran the stock route on the drivers side. On the passenger side I ran the same route but used a round to oval to round section to get past the differential cross member. I then rolled both exhausts over to the drivers side between the R200 and the gas tank to the stock muffler location. I used a Magnaflow muffler that had dual 2 1/2" inlets and a single 3" outlet. There was a noticeable increase in power over a 2 1/2" Y pipe set-up.

Food for thought. I have photos of both set-ups if you'd like to see them.

 

Love the TTT stuff. I have their coilover Koni shock set-up. Seems to be performing really well. I'm now looking at their Willwood rear brake kit. I currently have the 240SX / 300ZX caliper/rotor set-up in the rear and it seems too weak - especially since I have a 3,000 lb car.

My car is designed to be a sporty daily driver so keeping the brake function has always been important to me.

Edited by Phantom

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Are you sure you want to go through a Y pipe to a single exhaust? Unless you run a 3 12" exhaust you'll be giving up some HP.

I went from the headers to an X pipe through dual 2 1/2" exhausts. I ran the stock route on the drivers side. On the passenger side I ran the same route but used a round to oval to round section to get past the differential cross member. I then rolled both exhausts over to the drivers side between the R200 and the gas tank to the stock muffler location. I used a Magnaflow muffler that had dual 2 1/2" inlets and a single 3" outlet. There was a noticeable increase in power over a 2 1/2" Y pipe set-up.

Food for thought. I have photos of both set-ups if you'd like to see them.

Love the TTT stuff. I have their coilover Koni shock set-up. Seems to be performing really well. I'm now looking at their Willwood rear brake kit. I currently have the 240SX / 300ZX caliper/rotor set-up in the rear and it seems too weak - especially since I have a 3,000 lb car.

My car is designed to be a sporty daily driver so keeping the brake function has always been important to me.

3" exhaust pipe... The cx kit comes with a 3" single off a 3" y..... It's a nice looking complete stainless kit but the muffler is unknown/ generic and fixed so it can't be rotated etc for the the best fit. The complete exhaust package adds about $425 to the "compete kit".... maybe im being a tight wad but i beleive i can do it cheaper??? With a little tighter spec on clearance . I plan to use 3" with a relatively stock Z route with existing hanger locations but up tighter/close to the chassis for better clearance. I have not decided on muffler yet but it will be free flowing and compact to fit the stock Z location space.

Love to hear your thoughts on this crapforum as you have the complete kit in hand and first hand perspective.

Thanks again guys. Jim

 

Ps I like the TTT strut braces too. They seem to keep coming up with new way to spend my $$$$$ lol

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Perfect timing on your post.... I started cleaning up the engine bay and was wondering about that brake line for header clearance. I was planning on heat wrapping all my brake line to reduce the chance of boil at the track.... I assume I can remove all old fuel lines??? And also the old vacuum line running from the drivers side across the firewall and down into the tranny tunnel. It's all unbolted from the bay but I haven't traced it out from the tunnel yet....... Soccer practice tonight cut that short. I want to remove all unnecessary hardware from the engine bay, prep/detail/paint before I proceed.. Any advice and pointers as to what must go and stay is very welcome.

Thanks.

 

The only stock lines to keep are for the brakes, everything else can be ditched. That is unless your trying to run some sort of EVAP system with the LS motor to suck in gas vapors. I would also see if you can get the motor in with the headers and starter attached, will save you the hassle of stuffing them in later (I think it can be done).

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One thing I did on the LS install is look at exhaust cross-sectional area because that directly relates to back pressure.j  Correct me if I'm wrong guys, but my understanding is that LS motors really like to breathe and you can get significant results with more open exhaust systems - as long as you have the intake to match it - and don't get ridiculous.

Anyway, I originally thought to go with a single exhaust but realized I'd have to have a 3.5" single exhaust to match the area of two 2.5" exhausts.  That was when I started looking at ground clearance and realized that the dual 2.5" was the way to go.  Now that I've said all that I dyno'd the car when it had a single 2.5" exhaust from the Y pipe, back and it developed 311 RWHP and 326 ftlbs of torque. That was on a '98 LS1 out of a Z28 Camaro that GM rated at 305 HP at the time. The ECU had been refreshed to the 2002 engine tune, though.  A 3" exhaust will have almost 44% more flow area than a 2.5" exhaust so you should expect to see better numbers than that on a stock LS1 in good tune.

That triangular strut bar from TTT does look nice.  I have a really stout one in my car now that works well but I don't know if it will work with adjustable camber plates.  One more decision to make. Sigh.

Edited by Phantom

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The only stock lines to keep are for the brakes, everything else can be ditched. That is unless your trying to run some sort of EVAP system with the LS motor to suck in gas vapors. I would also see if you can get the motor in with the headers and starter attached, will save you the hassle of stuffing them in later (I think it can be done).

I got a call from CXR.... Headers are on back order and will arrive 10 days late. While I had them on the phone I asked about installing the motor with headers on and according to them it was a no-go.. Can't hurt to try so ill let you know when I get there. I thought I may be able to at least drop the motor with pass side on since it seems the bigger hassle with starter. Thanks Jim

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Jim,

My fuel pump is external and located in the same location as the original 280Z fuel pump.  That puts the tank on the suction side of the pump so as long as the vent works there is no issue.  My LS1 is bone stock so the line sizes are plenty sufficient for the fuel it requires.  I have a Corvette style pressure regulator/bypass valve mounted just before the engine fuel rails in the engine bay so I utilize both the supply and return lines.

Salvage parts list:

Engine,

Transmission,

ECU

Engine wiring harness,

O2 sensors (2) 

Fans and fan shroud (they almost perfectly fit a 280Z radiator that has been recored to a 4-row and I've had 0 cooling problems.

Cruise control components if you want to incorporate that function.

Do you have AC?  If you want to keep it then keep all the Datsun AC components except the compressor.  You'll need a compact compressor if you want to mount it in the high position (above the alternator) on the driver's side.

If you intend to keep the stock speedometer you'll need to get a CableX box to convert the electronic output from the T56 to drive the speedometer/odometer.  Other option would be a different tailshaft on the T56 that has a mechanical output.

Bill

Edited by Phantom

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I forgot you had a 280 with prior fuel injection..... No cruise control or AC for me.  I plan to weld in a sump to my stock 240 tank with a vette filter regulator and external pump.  My motor is basically stock although supposedly with a hot cam (need to verify but it may be the C5 cam).... and I have no plans for monster power.  I'm told the 98 motor has a different fuel rail set up that sounds like I wont need a return line except the one off the filter (correct?).  Thanks so much for your input, you are a wealth of great info for me to avoid frustrating and costly do-overs.  Jim

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Jim,

Correct about the fuel rail difference.  It also has a different head design.  One year newer and I would have had a better, more parts available, motor.  Not unhappy with the way it works though. :-)

Glad to help out anytime. Been fooling with this car for 23 years now, 12 with the LS1, so always willing to share the mistakes.

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