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TrackZpeeds CXRacing LS1 T56 240z


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#21 trackzpeed

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Posted 07 May 2015 - 04:34 AM

Phantom, I read on one of your post that you kept the stock fuel lines and tank? I was under the impression stock line didn't allow enough flow and stock tank fittings would hold the efi pressure requirements. Can you elaborate? Thanks. Jim

#22 trackzpeed

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Posted 07 May 2015 - 05:58 AM

Never mind the MC... It's all wrong (forgive me newbe ignorance)  A salvage punch list would still be great.



#23 Phantom

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Posted 07 May 2015 - 07:35 AM

Jim,

My fuel pump is external and located in the same location as the original 280Z fuel pump.  That puts the tank on the suction side of the pump so as long as the vent works there is no issue.  My LS1 is bone stock so the line sizes are plenty sufficient for the fuel it requires.  I have a Corvette style pressure regulator/bypass valve mounted just before the engine fuel rails in the engine bay so I utilize both the supply and return lines.

Salvage parts list:

Engine,

Transmission,

ECU

Engine wiring harness,

O2 sensors (2) 

Fans and fan shroud (they almost perfectly fit a 280Z radiator that has been recored to a 4-row and I've had 0 cooling problems.

Cruise control components if you want to incorporate that function.

Do you have AC?  If you want to keep it then keep all the Datsun AC components except the compressor.  You'll need a compact compressor if you want to mount it in the high position (above the alternator) on the driver's side.

If you intend to keep the stock speedometer you'll need to get a CableX box to convert the electronic output from the T56 to drive the speedometer/odometer.  Other option would be a different tailshaft on the T56 that has a mechanical output.

Bill


Edited by Phantom, 07 May 2015 - 07:37 AM.

'77 280Z with LS1/T56, '93 Z32 convertible, '05 Audi A8L, '02 Suburban LT


#24 trackzpeed

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Posted 07 May 2015 - 09:18 AM

I forgot you had a 280 with prior fuel injection..... No cruise control or AC for me.  I plan to weld in a sump to my stock 240 tank with a vette filter regulator and external pump.  My motor is basically stock although supposedly with a hot cam (need to verify but it may be the C5 cam).... and I have no plans for monster power.  I'm told the 98 motor has a different fuel rail set up that sounds like I wont need a return line except the one off the filter (correct?).  Thanks so much for your input, you are a wealth of great info for me to avoid frustrating and costly do-overs.  Jim



#25 Phantom

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Posted 07 May 2015 - 02:49 PM

Jim,

Correct about the fuel rail difference.  It also has a different head design.  One year newer and I would have had a better, more parts available, motor.  Not unhappy with the way it works though. :-)

Glad to help out anytime. Been fooling with this car for 23 years now, 12 with the LS1, so always willing to share the mistakes.


'77 280Z with LS1/T56, '93 Z32 convertible, '05 Audi A8L, '02 Suburban LT


#26 trackzpeed

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Posted 08 May 2015 - 05:33 AM

dropping tank and Datsun lines this weekend..... also still working on cleaning up the engine bay.  Can I ditch the huge (solenoid????) that was connected to the Datsun alternator?  It's wired into the harness on the passenger frame rail which I need to keep for chassis electrics but I don't know it's function or if its necessary in an LS swap.  Thanks Guys, Jim  



#27 trackzpeed

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Posted 08 May 2015 - 03:07 PM

Dug out my Haynes manual.... It the voltage regulator (duh) but still not sure if I can ditch or not. Any takers?

#28 Phantom

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Posted 08 May 2015 - 10:01 PM

Ditch it. The LS alternator has an integral voltage regulator.

'77 280Z with LS1/T56, '93 Z32 convertible, '05 Audi A8L, '02 Suburban LT


#29 trackzpeed

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Posted 09 May 2015 - 05:27 PM

Well I dropped the tank and all of the old fuel lines running down the tunnel...what a PITA. planning on a weld in sump to the bottom of the tank. Need to hot tank it and get her ready to weld.

#30 CableSrv

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Posted 10 May 2015 - 07:50 AM

trackzpeed, I end up doing a sump to my 240's fuel tank and ran whole new steel line for main line. I'm utilizing a corvette filter/regulator but keeping it by the tank so that's one less line to run. 


1971 240z

98 LS1 with T56, Johns Car's kit, JTR headers, JTR intake ducting, ChevyThunder's standalone harness, Custom 3in exhaust with straight through muffler


#31 RebekahsZ

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Posted 10 May 2015 - 10:02 AM

Having added a sump to a stock tank myself, I would not take that approach if I could do it all over. The stock tank is a bitch to get in and out. Plus, it fits the car do tightly that there is no room for some of the things that an LS-Z eventually winds up needing: like a parachute and a trailer hitch. It's just too crowded.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#32 trackzpeed

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Posted 10 May 2015 - 12:09 PM

trackzpeed, I end up doing a sump to my 240's fuel tank and ran whole new steel line for main line. I'm utilizing a corvette filter/regulator but keeping it by the tank so that's one less line to run.


Thanks for the info. Where did you buy your sump? Summit has one but its 11" long and may need be modified a bit to make it work. I'm planning the same as you but intended not to use the steel line..... Are you by passing the expansion tank or keeping it? I was going to ditch it but it will make venting to the fill the tank a bugger. Are you running 8 or 6 an fittings from sump to pump and filter ? Thanks again.

#33 trackzpeed

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Posted 10 May 2015 - 12:15 PM

Having added a sump to a stock tank myself, I would not take that approach if I could do it all over. The stock tank is a bitch to get in and out. Plus, it fits the car do tightly that there is no room for some of the things that an LS-Z eventually winds up needing: like a parachute and a trailer hitch. It's just too crowded.


Thanks Keith. My original plan was fuel cell but i don't like the filler option inside the driver/pass space. No need for a chute as I can't run the 1/4 to save my life lol. Strictly a road racer/autoX/mountain/spirited weekend guy. Since the Z is unibody, I worry a touch about removing the wheel well and properly supporting again with big costs..... Figure if I sump the stock tank I can always change my mind later. Thanks again. Jim

#34 CableSrv

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Posted 10 May 2015 - 01:34 PM

I bought mine off ebay and modified it to bend. Here is a pic showing what I did.

 

http://i.imgur.com/KcKyP6u.jpg


1971 240z

98 LS1 with T56, Johns Car's kit, JTR headers, JTR intake ducting, ChevyThunder's standalone harness, Custom 3in exhaust with straight through muffler


#35 Jay Gadsby

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Posted 10 May 2015 - 05:21 PM

^Did you do that yourself? What was done to prep it? I have been contemplating a low pressure pump>surge>high pressure pump>filter setup but am not completely sold. Have toyed with the sump idea, just not sure what to do for complete prep work. I Have read hot tank followed by argon purge during welding.

#36 trackzpeed

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Posted 10 May 2015 - 05:21 PM

I bought mine off ebay and modified it to bend. Here is a pic showing what I did.
 
http://i.imgur.com/KcKyP6u.jpg


Nice work. Are you 8an to and from the pump and filter?

#37 trackzpeed

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Posted 10 May 2015 - 05:41 PM

Pile of scrap waiting to become something useful lolAttached File  image.jpg   102.07KB   0 downloads

Edited by trackzpeed, 10 May 2015 - 05:42 PM.


#38 CableSrv

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Posted 11 May 2015 - 10:06 AM

Correct! The sump came with 1/2 fittings and just ordered some -8an to 1/2 npt fittings and seems to do the job well enough. 

 

As for prep.. just clean the tank and make sure no fuel is left. then cut and sand the area and weld her in. The sump had to be modified as shown to fit the bend in the tank. a simple pie slice cut out of each side of the sump and a hammer to bend it over.

 

Honestly didn't even argon purge the tank as I was already low on my tank. Might have been because it was a overlap joint vs butt joint.  But verified no leaks and didn't have to touch anything up. Afterwards I dumped a bunch of Ospho in the tank to make sure any rust that was left got removed. The white film you see in that picture is also from ospho.. the weld looked much better before the ospho lol. Wish I would have taken a picture after the weld vs after ospho.


Edited by CableSrv, 11 May 2015 - 10:09 AM.

1971 240z

98 LS1 with T56, Johns Car's kit, JTR headers, JTR intake ducting, ChevyThunder's standalone harness, Custom 3in exhaust with straight through muffler


#39 JoeK

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Posted 11 May 2015 - 12:16 PM

Call me paranoid, but I would be uncomfortable welding on a gas tank that hasn't been boiled out first. Gas fumes go boom.


1971 240Z - LS1 swap in progress. Just need to: get wheels, drop the car from the rotiserrie, install the motor and trans, rebuild my dash, put in a new interior plus a few more odds and ends (about $10k in incidentals). Should be on the road before my 5 year old heads off to college.


#40 CableSrv

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Posted 11 May 2015 - 06:07 PM

Agreed! I used simple green and ospho on the tank before welding. Definitely make sure it's clean of all gas before you weld!

1971 240z

98 LS1 with T56, Johns Car's kit, JTR headers, JTR intake ducting, ChevyThunder's standalone harness, Custom 3in exhaust with straight through muffler





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