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TrackZpeeds CXRacing LS1 T56 240z


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#41 Phantom

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Posted 12 May 2015 - 01:08 PM

Thanks Keith. My original plan was fuel cell but i don't like the filler option inside the driver/pass space. No need for a chute as I can't run the 1/4 to save my life lol. Strictly a road racer/autoX/mountain/spirited weekend guy. Since the Z is unibody, I worry a touch about removing the wheel well and properly supporting again with big costs..... Figure if I sump the stock tank I can always change my mind later. Thanks again. Jim

Jim,

My son put a 16 gallon fuel cell in place of his spare tire well and ran the filler neck out behind the license plate on his '73 240Z.  It's a nice installation.  If you're interested I'll see if he can give me the MFG/model number.


Edited by Phantom, 13 May 2015 - 10:16 AM.

'77 280Z with LS1/T56, '93 Z32 convertible, '05 Audi A8L, '02 Suburban LT


#42 trackzpeed

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Posted 12 May 2015 - 06:17 PM

Jim,
My son put a 17 gallon fuel cell in place of his spare tire well and ran the filler neck out behind the license plate on his '73 240Z.  It's a nice installation.  If you're interested I'll see if he can give me the MFG/model number.


That would be great.... I'm always willing to change course if a better plan pops up. Funny you should post this. The cost of hot tanking and welding in a sump is just shy of putting in a real fuel cell. I still have some trepidation about weakening the chassis though... thoughts anyone?

#43 CableSrv

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Posted 13 May 2015 - 04:24 AM

This is true, but also means you lose your spare tire well. This was something I just didn't want do lose just yet. Not only that but having to modify the filler location was a pain I also didn't want to deal with. Time will tell on whether I might switch to a fuel cell myself.


1971 240z

98 LS1 with T56, Johns Car's kit, JTR headers, JTR intake ducting, ChevyThunder's standalone harness, Custom 3in exhaust with straight through muffler


#44 JoeK

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Posted 13 May 2015 - 07:31 AM

If you're worried about the rigidity of the chassis when removing the spare tire well, just weld in a cover with an access hatch where your sump is, in case you need to service it. But I really wouldn't be worried about it, there are a lot of people removing their spare tire well for fuel cells, and I've never read or heard of any issues.

 

Losing the space is a personal question. My last sports car was a Datsun Roadster. There was no spare tire well, so if you carried the spare, it took up over half the space in the trunk. I got over that quick and just carried a AAA card instead.

 

I'll be using the stock Camaro plastic tank, which will allow me to route the fuel filler to the original location, and not get too fancy with dual exhaust routing. But I think you'll be running a single exhaust with the CX kit, so that is less of a concern.

 

Also, I don't know much about racing sanctioning bodies, but if you are planning on tracking the car, you may want to confirm what will be allowed. The "fuel cells" that that they sell for $100 at Summit aren't true fuel cells. They are just fuel safe formed plastic container, but don't have the bladder which is the true safety part.


1971 240Z - LS1 swap in progress. Just need to: get wheels, drop the car from the rotiserrie, install the motor and trans, rebuild my dash, put in a new interior plus a few more odds and ends (about $10k in incidentals). Should be on the road before my 5 year old heads off to college.


#45 CableSrv

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Posted 13 May 2015 - 08:19 AM

not worried about rigidity.. more or less worried about not having a spare tire? then again.. not sure I'll need one... then again.. I'm not sure.


1971 240z

98 LS1 with T56, Johns Car's kit, JTR headers, JTR intake ducting, ChevyThunder's standalone harness, Custom 3in exhaust with straight through muffler


#46 Phantom

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Posted 13 May 2015 - 09:13 AM

My son got his fuel cell from www.Tanksinc.com.  It is a universal pick-up truck fuel tank.  Part number UT-N.  When you go to the website it will show tanks.  You'll want the one on the right as it's for fuel injection. You'll need ventless gas cap to go with it and to run vent for the tank.  He ran his up in the rear passenger shock tower area. He has a bolt down plate covering the installation. He got the license plate bracket off a 50's/60's vintage auto from a salvage yard.

Also - I've been driving over 50 yearns and I've had a total of 5 flat tires, and none of them in the last 15 years.  I've had a few nails but was able to driven the tire to a shop to get it fixed.  The tire well in my Z is not useable except as a small "trunk".  The only flat I had in it was about 20 years ago when a really old BFG radial T/A blew out a sidewall on me.

Photos:

Attached Files


Edited by Phantom, 13 May 2015 - 10:16 AM.

'77 280Z with LS1/T56, '93 Z32 convertible, '05 Audi A8L, '02 Suburban LT


#47 trackzpeed

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Posted 13 May 2015 - 11:04 AM

got some goodies from the fed ex man....

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#48 trackzpeed

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Posted 13 May 2015 - 11:13 AM

I'm sticking with my sumped 240 tank for now... just dropped $425 in sump, an fittings, braided fuel line, pump and regulator and ......

Should look something like this when completed post-38304-0-04011800-1431544303_thumb.j

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#49 EastTnZ

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Posted 13 May 2015 - 05:31 PM

If you're running a walbro 255 they are more pushers than pullers. I'd recommend lowering the pump if it were me from the picture shown above. Exhaust pieces and mounts look good! Good luck with the build!
Still looking for that completely rust free Z...
-1976 280Z 5.3L S366 TR6060 - 12,120+ miles since the swap...Vintage Air added
http://www.flickr.com/photos/easttnz/
-2012 2500HD Silverado CCSB 6.6L

#50 Richard Oben

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Posted 14 May 2015 - 05:42 AM

Take this for what it is worth, PUT THE PUMP IN THE TANK, if you can.  We have been at this for a while as TZ knows, every time we mount an external pump we regret it.  JMHO, YMMV, Richard. 



#51 RebekahsZ

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Posted 14 May 2015 - 03:50 PM

How you have it is fine-mine is mounted higher than yours and is fine. I wouldn't revisit this part of the build-check it off the list as done.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#52 trackzpeed

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Posted 14 May 2015 - 04:26 PM

Thanks.... I did my research and this set up seemed pretty well vetted out.   I'm on a spending spree right now collecting parts so I think my plan to complete the swap after the AutoX season may not fly.  I can't wait to get this done!



#53 trackzpeed

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Posted 18 May 2015 - 05:36 AM

Engine bay painted and prepped.  Gas tank will finish up this week and installing clutch MC.  Time to start thinking of pulling the LS1...

post-38304-0-68045200-1431955646_thumb.jpost-38304-0-48251500-1431955682_thumb.jpost-38304-0-65738000-1431955719_thumb.jpost-38304-0-99304100-1431955753_thumb.j

 

And since every racer knows that stickers make give your horsepower, I estimate my garage around 1000 HP. 

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#54 RebekahsZ

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Posted 18 May 2015 - 02:26 PM

Can you come clean and organize my garage (I will pay you)?  Looks great.


1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#55 trackzpeed

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Posted 25 May 2015 - 02:19 PM

Well I had a fail with sump.... I should have cut it down before welding is on. It hangs way to low.... Not happy. Wish I would have gone the fuel cell route now, dang it! Lesson learned. If I can't fix my tank I'm going you bite the bullet an order a fuel cell....

#56 Jay Gadsby

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Posted 25 May 2015 - 03:22 PM

I have decided to run the oem ls1 camaro pump. Need to mod the top of the tank, but I think will be worth it in the end. No external regulator, has built in starvation solution and only requires one fuel line. a lot of the Nova and Chevelle guys use it on their non baffled tanks with no issues.

#57 trackzpeed

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Posted 26 May 2015 - 05:55 AM

motor mounts in, Clutch MC in with SAE nut welded to Z clutch fork, AND my sump fail!  with sump would have worked just fine if I would have measured twice and welded once....STUPID, and a waist of $70.  Time for a fuel cell instead...any cell size recommendations?

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#58 trackzpeed

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Posted 27 May 2015 - 01:04 PM

16 gallon fuel cell on its way... time cut out the spare tire well this weekend.  No turning back now. 



#59 RebekahsZ

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Posted 27 May 2015 - 03:37 PM

For sizing and locating the cell: determine what else you need space for: fuel pump? Dual exhaust? Battery? Trailer hitch? Parachute? Future suspension mods? If I were doing a cell with the events I participate in, I would go small and deep to limit sloshing and I would weld a good solid perimeter frame abound the bottom of the floor on the underside. I would connect it the roll cage or something else good and solid so I could use it for all of the above. Try to think easy serviceability with quick disconnects and a cleanable screen-type filter to get all the welding flash etc out. My tank had been sand blasted and it took about 5 cleanings before my screen quit having sand in it, but the FPR has always been fine. Don't forget to put a small braided grounding strap from the tank to the chassis or some track inspector may send you home.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#60 RebekahsZ

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Posted 27 May 2015 - 03:39 PM

When you are redesigning your rear deck, think about how to mount a spare tire, a full size floor jack and a tool box.those things add a sense of security when going to the track.

Edited by RebekahsZ, 27 May 2015 - 03:40 PM.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!





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