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Fender flare position


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#21 JMortensen

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 02:06 PM

You shouldn't need a different master with the adjustable slave. In fact you can swap the pin with a non-adjustable slave to make it adjustable. Sounds like it isn't adjusted right, or something else is going wrong. My fear is that if you use a 3/4" master it will either hyper-extend the pressure plate fingers or push the slave cylinder all the way out.

 

Your distributor looks like it might be getting some vacuum advance at higher rpms. If you have the stock 280ZX distributor and take the vacuum advance off or lock it down, then you should get 17 or 18 degrees mechanical, and you can look at the bottom of the plate with the centrifugal weights and it will tell you which one you have. When I was running an L28 with triples that's what I did, and just set the timing for something like 17 or 18 degrees at idle to get mid 30s at all in, which I think happens at about 2500. 


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#22 gacksen

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 11:19 PM

after the new gearbox had been in i tried the following. adjusted the slave pushrod so that no slack had been on the fork. drove the car and crunch had been there in all the gears. more noticeable in 1/2/3 than 4/5.

next adjusted the pushrod on the slave with more force means the throwoutbearing pressing on the pressure plate with not engaged clutch. after having done this there was also crunch but not that bad as before.

this would bring me to the conclusion that the slave has not enough throw to fully disengange the clutch. next step is either to reduce the bore of the slave or increase the bore of the master or do both to increase

throw on the slave. is my math wrong in this point ?

 

the dizzy is the tune 123 with disconnected vac. this had been the tune that was one it after it had the triple weber 45 rebuilt and was on the dyno. have read a lot of threads and the consens seemd that the the all in

advance should come in between 2500 and 3200 rpm so i aksed myself why in this case they bring it in quite late at 4000.



#23 JMortensen

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Posted 23 September 2015 - 07:46 AM

after the new gearbox had been in i tried the following. adjusted the slave pushrod so that no slack had been on the fork. drove the car and crunch had been there in all the gears. more noticeable in 1/2/3 than 4/5.

next adjusted the pushrod on the slave with more force means the throwoutbearing pressing on the pressure plate with not engaged clutch. after having done this there was also crunch but not that bad as before.

this would bring me to the conclusion that the slave has not enough throw to fully disengange the clutch. next step is either to reduce the bore of the slave or increase the bore of the master or do both to increase

throw on the slave. is my math wrong in this point ?

I haven't adjusted a Z clutch since maybe 2000, but from what I remember, the spring retracts the slave so I want to say there was a little free play between the adjuster and the fork. I set mine to disengage about 50mm off the floor. The fact that yours won't disengage says to me that something else is wrong. Bad master, or slave, or air in the system. But the size of the manual adjust slave isn't any different, so I don't see why yours won't disengage but everyone else's will. Unless your parts are different sizes for some strange reason, it should work.

 

I'm not following you on the dizzy stuff so I'll leave that to someone else.


Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com


#24 jhm

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Posted 26 September 2015 - 03:04 PM

This thread seems to have taken off on a tangent from the original post "Fender flare position".  Might want to start a new thread with new title?



#25 Ereschkigal

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Posted 19 November 2016 - 07:48 AM

Hey, I would like to get your opinions of my project..

The wheel is not loaded.

The ends spread apart, because the tape didn't hold them....

zGTNFf6.jpg

yZuNBM7.jpg


Edited by Ereschkigal, 19 November 2016 - 09:17 AM.





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