Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

wiring push button start on 77 280z


  • Please log in to reply
16 replies to this topic

#1 ISPKI

ISPKI

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 171 posts
  • LocationCT

Posted 01 August 2015 - 08:14 AM

Hey guys, I have been having alot of issues with my ignition lock cylinder. The original that was in the car when I purchased it was broken, pieces of the tumblers were falling out of it and it did not function. I have replaced it twice now with aftermarket lock cylinders, neither of which actually fit correctly and had to be modified. The last one just failed on me as I am trying to get my car back on the road - cracked right down the middle and fell out of the column. So, I looked at the wiring schematic and decided that I would like to wire up a series of switches to replace the lock cylinder. Something like one of those sold by Jegs with safety toggles and a push button start.

 

My question is this: What are the two wires on the side of the cylinder that have contact when the key is not in the ignition? Also - if anyone has any pro tips, I would love to hear them.



#2 NewZed

NewZed

    Clandestine Moderator

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5260 posts
  • LocationWashington County, Oregon

Posted 01 August 2015 - 09:02 AM

My question is this: What are the two wires on the side of the cylinder that have contact when the key is not in the ignition? Also - if anyone has any pro tips, I would love to hear them.

Are they shown in the schematic but you don't know what they do?  Or are they on the switch but not shown n the schematic?  Are they #6 and #7, or one of the five.

 

If you have a meter you could at least chem them for either ground or power.



#3 Phantom

Phantom

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2672 posts
  • LocationYakima, Washington

Posted 02 August 2015 - 03:56 PM

Motorsport Auto sells a pushbutton start kit for the Z.  You might check it out.


'77 280Z with LS1/T56, '93 Z32 convertible, '05 Audi A8L, '02 Suburban LT


#4 ISPKI

ISPKI

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 171 posts
  • LocationCT

Posted 02 August 2015 - 06:23 PM

None of the schematics that I have seen have these two wires, they are not  part of the 5 pin switch. They are mounted on the side of the lock cylinder housing with spade connectors close to where the key inserts into the cylinder.

 

I took a look at motorsport Auto's push button kit, not sure what you get for 234$ (That seems very expensive) but they are out of stock.


Edited by ISPKI, 02 August 2015 - 06:26 PM.


#5 Savage42

Savage42

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 896 posts
  • LocationSarasota, FL

Posted 08 August 2015 - 04:43 AM

Those 2 separate wires are for the "key in ignition" buzzer. The actual ignition switch (electrical part) has the 5-pin connector. Hope that helps.

Gary Savage - http://www.Savage42.com
 


#6 jhm

jhm

    HybridZ Supporter

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 558 posts
  • LocationHampton, VA

Posted 08 August 2015 - 06:36 AM

Ditto what Savage said.  Not sure if you have the attached as a reference, but this is what I use for IG switch wiring schematic.  And no need to spend $200 on this....you can wire your own with el cheapo parts from Pep Boys.

Attached Files



#7 Dudeboy

Dudeboy

    HybridZ Supporter

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 535 posts
  • LocationHiram, Georgia 30141

Posted 09 August 2015 - 12:30 PM

The Jegs, Summit or Longacre pushbutton switch panels are easier to connect. Depending on which one you get the panel may or may not be fused. I re-wired my 77 and installed a Longacre pushbutton starter, but i will look in my stuff for my notes before snatch everything out.. Keep in mind if ypu go pushbutton, think about having a kill switch and/or some type hidden security. Second, i swapped in a LS1/4L60E and I ran the neutral safety switch through the pushbutton starter. Someone correct me if I and wrong, you have to wire the clutch pedal switch into start button for stick shift cars. Safety.


Glenn A.
1977 280Z V8 in the works !!!
2004 Corvette Coupe

#8 RebekahsZ

RebekahsZ

    Life Member

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5375 posts
  • LocationFlorence, Alabama

Posted 09 August 2015 - 12:40 PM

Safety is your brain.  My S10 has a clutch switch and it is a pain in the arse.  Have your computer guy eliminate the clutch switch.


1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#9 ISPKI

ISPKI

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 171 posts
  • LocationCT

Posted 12 August 2015 - 05:13 AM

Thanks for the responses ladies and gents! I ordered a 3 switch panel and an illuminated push button from amazon for ~45$. Will post more when I get them.



#10 Austenp405

Austenp405

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 115 posts
  • LocationColorado Springs

Posted 14 August 2015 - 03:36 PM

Safety is your brain.  My S10 has a clutch switch and it is a pain in the arse.  Have your computer guy eliminate the clutch switch.

 

In addition, several times I've been able to use the starter with the clutch out to move the car when the engine wasn't cooperating. Handy, to be sure.


'84 300ZXT- Stock
'79 280zx- Stock (except for dents, rust, and dead rodents)
'80 280ZX- Not stock

Posted Image

#11 ISPKI

ISPKI

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 171 posts
  • LocationCT

Posted 14 August 2015 - 10:23 PM

Just got the switches, kind of disappointed in the push button. It locks closed if you press it too far in. not sure if it will continue to trigger the starter though.



#12 ISPKI

ISPKI

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 171 posts
  • LocationCT

Posted 16 August 2015 - 06:36 PM

JHM, I do not have that schematic, I was looking at http://atlanticz.ca/...tor/before2.gif

 

It is in color but the pin numbers dont seem to make sense, although they say it is the wiring for a 77 280z. It does match the colors on the back of my switch though.

 

I have a 3 button safety switch panel, just want to run this by you guys who have done this: Wire #14 is the 12v supply from the fuses and needs to be wired to the acc switch, "on" switch, and start button. My question is: Does #10 need to be wired to both acc AND "on"? or can it only be wired to acc switch?

 

Finally: The push button would need #14 wire (12v supply), #15, and #18 correct?



#13 ISPKI

ISPKI

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 171 posts
  • LocationCT

Posted 17 August 2015 - 08:05 AM

Just soldered wires to the start button and tested it, works great. Cant upload video for some reason though...



#14 ISPKI

ISPKI

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 171 posts
  • LocationCT

Posted 17 August 2015 - 09:09 AM

Can anyone confirm the purpose of the Black/blue stripe wire coming out of the igntion switch in the atlanticz diagram? I believe it is the 12v bypass wire from the transistor ignition system which my car no longer has, so I should be able to remove it.



#15 m1ghtymaxXx

m1ghtymaxXx

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 741 posts
  • LocationSt. John's, Newfoundland, Canada

Posted 01 September 2015 - 04:06 AM

I've had to wire push button starts in both my 77 and 83 Z's. My electrical knowledge is minimal and I had no trouble cobbling together a working system from individual components. 

 

Here's what you'll need:

 

- Momentary switch 

- 4 pin relay & pigtail

- Constant fused 12v+ 

- Wire & spade terminal to fit the starter solenoid, ring terminal for ground. 

- Multimeter

- Soldering iron etc. to make some splice connections. 

 

Chose a location for your starter button. In my 77 I used a knockout in the center console about the hazzard light switch. I brought the knockout with me to the electronics store to size up a button that fits. Also, find a location for the relay. I put mine in the passenger footwell bolted to the inside of the firewall. 

 

You'll need to find an accessory wire to trip the relay when the key is in the "on" position. To do this, ground the negative probe on the multi-meter, turn the key to the "on" position, and make sure everything is turned off (wipers, HVAC, headlights, etc, otherwise you risk wiring your starter to another accessory, ask me how I know ). Unplug connectors at the column and check the pins (on the chassis side of the harness) for battery voltage. You should find several, mark the wires coming of them. Now take the key out and see which no longer has power. Voila, you have your switched power. You'll need to splice into that wire, what I like to do is snip it, strip the insulation, and twist a 3rd wire into that, solder and seal. Run this wire to the 86 Pin on the relay

 

Next you'll need constant fused 12V power. You can go straight from the battery with an inline fuse, take it from the stock or added fuse panel. Connect this to the 30 pin on the relay.

 

Now find a female spade terminal that fits the starter solenoid terminal snugly. Run this through the firewall grommet, to one of the starter switch terminals. Then connect the other terminal to the 87 pin of the relay. 

 

Now ground the 85 pin of the relay.

 

If all is done right, nothing should happen with the key out and the button pushed. Now turn the key to the on position, push the button, and the car should jump to life. I've attached a quick MS Paint wiring diagram of how it should look.

 

Attached File  Starter Wiring.png   8.45KB   3 downloads

 

DISCLAIMER: This is all off the top of my head and I'm not a trained professional. Use your own judgement or seek the approval of more knowledgeable hybridzedders before proceeding!

 

Also, I believe there's more than one way of wiring a relay to accomplish this same task. This is how I recall doing it. 


Edited by m1ghtymaxXx, 01 September 2015 - 04:07 AM.


#16 Savage42

Savage42

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 896 posts
  • LocationSarasota, FL

Posted 25 February 2017 - 01:32 PM

Got my DZ-Start kit with RFID in the mail yesterday. Woo-hoo! I've seen aftermarket kits that cost double and bet the Dave's quality is as good or better than those ones. If you have worn door & ignition cylinders, time to upgrade to this kit with power door locks!

Gary Savage - http://www.Savage42.com
 


#17 JMortensen

JMortensen

    Retired Admin.

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 12431 posts
  • LocationSeattle area, WA

Posted 13 March 2017 - 03:26 PM

Got my DZ-Start kit with RFID in the mail yesterday. Woo-hoo! I've seen aftermarket kits that cost double and bet the Dave's quality is as good or better than those ones. If you have worn door & ignition cylinders, time to upgrade to this kit with power door locks!

It's one thing to wire up a doorbell (literally saw that once) or a race car push button. What Dave did is a whole lot more than that. He does good work!


Jon Mortensen, owner/operator www.petdoorstore.com





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users