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Hey Forum,

 

I would like to share my project . Before three years I was planning to do AWD 240z. Bought 240z 72 without engine and gtr32 half cut , Skyline R32 - GTR , Engine RB 26 - Manual 4WD. After long search found out very costly with less potential benefits build.

Here is my progress so far.

 

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Started installing rb26 engine with rb25 gearbox  

 

rb25 oil pan cut and fabricate metal adapter then welded it on oil pan

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Edited by rk2334

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Switching the R32 complete rear frame/diff  subframe

 

Instead of cutting body frame I cut all arms support and cross diff support then allocated them while subframe fitted with adaptor plate.

 

 gtr 32 rear suspension will not fit because it is short instead i used r34 suspension with modified head.

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Edited by rk2334

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I think rear suspension within tolerance range

You mean alignment, it's possible. I mean what happens when suspension moves. Looks like you have lots of squat and toe in when inbound.

Edited by TUME

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I ordered SILVIA FRONT+REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM and R32 REAR UPPER ADJUSTABLE CAMBER CONTROL KIT from ebay.

   Fitted and tested, moving up down smoothly.  Now looking more Powerful and reliable than the stock.

   Tail shaft and pinion center line (angle alignment) are parallel

 

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Went ahead and swapped the front amount with R34 front suspension, R32 Front Knuckles, Hubs, Suspension, drums, braks and gts32 lower front control arms and kept the oem front crossmember and tension rods. Made two custom threaded adapters welded with knuckles. Also removed upper  oem suspension cup, trim them from edge  and made custom base plate bolted  on upper r34 suspension to mate oem cup.    

 

I Cut upper control arm(caster angle) of r32 because of not enough space to fit it in the body and replace it with holder lever that move up and down but ran into an issue with high speed stability and ugly looking

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Edited by rk2334

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That front suspension is not going to work. You have two turning points on upside of axle. Shock is turnin it's upper mount aswell knucle bearing. That extra mount is reducing shock moving inwards when suspension moves. You gonna need some kind of upper arm with it. Like this, or other idea; weld that knucle to that upper mount so it can´t turn there.

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Other issue is steering, when you have front steering rack, steering arms can't be that way. Well, they can but you have anti-ackerman effect on your steering.

Edited by TUME

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That front suspension is not going to work. You have two turning points on upside of axle. Shock is turnin it's upper mount aswell knucle bearing. That extra mount is reducing shock moving inwards when suspension moves. You gonna need some kind of upper arm with it. Like this, or other idea; weld that knucle to that upper mount so it can´t turn there.

IMG3246-L.jpg

 

Other issue is steering, when you have front steering rack, steering arms can't be that way. Well, they can but you have anti-ackerman effect on your steering.

Thanks for your input man

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I bought aftermarket R32 front tension rods and nissan galoria aftermarket front suspensions. I modified suspensions upper part my removing top cup and machine plate same as stock size drill bolt holes then welding tack lock the bolts to not loosen when running. Fitted drums and brakes of r32 straight with no issue. Installed silvia aftermarket adjustable front lower control arms. They didn’t fit directly I widen the crossmember arm pivot points rack by around 7mm to fit arms’ pillowball.  

* Started the conversion to power steering gearbox from nissan. It fitted on stock rock nicely,  but right rod was found short so I machined extension piece welded with right tie rod end.  

The stock swaybar not fitting with new modifications so I bought nissan slivia s13 front swaybar but it was  wider than body by about 2inch so I cut it from meddle then shorten it from both side by one inch then welded it.

 

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Yeah bro, I've been working on it for about 3 years now my first thread was this http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/108582-240z-awd-swap/

 

got rid of stock clutch boost cylinder and  Installed gtr32 clutch booster cylinder with minimal adjustment  

 

made aluminum glove box and it fitted perfectly

 

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Edited by rk2334

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Body work

Replacing Passenger Floor and driver floor were very corroded.Also welded small rusty areas all over the body.   I modified body seat base to fit 300z seats. welded support bars to protect body from cracking and for safety.

Instead of using por15.I used cheaper and stronger  tar paper roll 3mm, that used for sealing building roofs, for covering the floors from noise and rust.

Finished up Shorten the spare wheel well and made removable fuel cover tab for custom fuel tank, then rewelded it back as nice as possible to give stock looking.       

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Edited by rk2334

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Dash had large crack holes, they were splitted the edges of the cracks flare upwards. I filled them  with fiberglass then sand and flatten these flares down, then painted with plastic but cracks were in the typical places, and you could slide your fingers through them and  may crack again in future. So decided to cover the dash with carbon fiber. First i painted it with epoxy resin and hardner coat to make it solid protected from any future cracking and flatten it out then layout carbon fiber cloth then put epoxy coat lastly, spray it with clear lacquer paint  and do the same for all interior plastic pieces. 

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Edited by rk2334

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with the amount of power RB26's  will be producing and considering future upgrading I have to increase fuel system efficiency setup that will be up to the task of delivery enough fuel.  As well as, I wanted a close to stock looking boot .First I modified spare well pics are in previous post. Second, I modified tank, I striped all the old hoses and sending unit. Then cut tank’s upper half and clean inside tank, plenty of rust shuffled  then I welded internal bars as  a support to protect it from crashs and welded small plates as fuel baffle to protect fuel pump from sucking air and keep itself full at all times thus, prevents fuel starvation in cornering and accelerating. Fabricate new metal upper cover, welded and leak tested. Made vent line    

 

Bought Toyota supra fuel hunger and welbro455 fuel pump but for now I installed Toyota chaser turbo fuel pump just for starting  and trial test purpose. drilled hole in the tank and  fabricate two ring adapter  plates, the lower one welded with bolts and wielded on the tank the other ring holder for seal hunger. The pump right now sits about a half inch from the bottom of the tank, it should be perfect.

I also upgraded old rubber filler nick and cap with 1.5 inch flexible steel hose one end welded into the tank hole the other end fitted into rubber hose to cap’s nick and firmly clamped at both ends.

I do have a pretty tank now

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Edited by rk2334

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