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nismo kid

My Turbo LSX Z31 Builld

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I explored several different front brake caliper solutions. Many were just larger factory calipers from other . I.E. Evo 8/9 calipers, 350z (Z33) Brembos, Akebono style calipers. On my previous car I had Z32 (90-96 300zx) brake calipers. I also already had a set of Z32 calipers & Z33 Brembos. But I decided to go another route for this car/to try something "new" to me. Wilwood Superlites grabbed my attention immediately. Their main selling points IMO were the calipers piston size,  weight savings & variety of different brake pads compounds to choose from. Luckily my buddy Adam had already shared what was all needed with The Z31 community. He even held a group buy for the brackets needed for the install. The Wilwoods I purchased were part# 120-11133.  

Intrigued by how light Wilwoods felt. I broke out my scale so I can do a weight comparison between the 4 different calipers in my possession. This comparison covered 84 N/A, 88 Turbo, 30mm aluminum Z32, & Willwood Superlite. Unfortunately I forgot to include the Z33 Brembos for what ever reason. By the time realised This I had already sold them.  Here's some comparison photos.  
These were weights from lightest to heaviest. All weights are for an individual caliper that was fully drained. 
 
1) Wilwood Superlite 4 piston caliper @ 4LB 15.5OZ
 
2) 84 N/A Z31 single piston caliper @ 5LB 15OZ
 
3) 30mm aluminum Z32 4 piston caliper @ 6LB 3OZ
 
4) 88 Turbo Z31 2 piston caliper @ 7LB 11OZ 
 
Going into this I already knew the brake dust shields would need to be slightly trimmed to accommodate the Willwoods. Once the shield modifications concluded they were powder coated & installed. Followed by the newly "refurbished" wheel hubs. 
Next the brake caliper brackets were installed.  Followed by the 2 peice rotors & calipers.  For the brake pads the Willwood BP-10 High Performance Street Compound pads were chosen.( Part # 150-8854K ) 

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Picked up a Hurst line lock for the car too. Part# 174 5000.  The installation of it could start after removing all the factory brake hard  lines & rubber hoses. I wanted to keep it as close to the brake master as possible. So I made bracket that would locate the solenoid directly under the brake master.  It would be secured using the same studs used to mount the brake master to the booster. This keeps it away from all heat sources & the amount of hardline down too. Construction of the brake hard lines could start with lock location officially set.  3/16 stainless steel hard line was used to make every brake line in the entire system. To minimize the amount of clutter on the firewall I ran the rear brake line down the drivers frame rail instead of the passenger side. Only hard line that runs along the firewall is for the passenger front caliper. After all the hard lines were made the line lock bracket was painted for a cleaner look.  With stainless steel hard lines knocked out Wilwood stainless steel braid brake lines were installed for the front calipers.  Wilwood hose part # 220-9199

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Stainless steel braided Goodridge hoses were used to replace the rear rubber hoses. For the rear brakes there's nothing too exciting going on. Just some freshly painted remanufactured calipers. Along with replacement factory pads & rotors. I was considering doing a 5 lug swap with vented rotors but decided tart would be a waste of $. Especially when I'll be swapping to the s13 subframe in the coming months.  At this point I was fed up with not driving the car aka being a member of the "Jack Stand Mafia". Here's a couple photos. 

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I installed Z1 Motorsports' short shifter paired with the Z Speed Solid Shifter bracket. The carbon shift knob is from my previous build from years ago.  Next I got a few quotes locally to make my driveshaft & was given some pretty steep numbers. Even with reusing my a driveshaft yoke & flange. So I made a call to Shaftmasters to explain my needs.  They emailed me measurement forms to fill out while I was on the phone. He literally began to make my shaft right after our conversion. It was actually shipped within 3hrs of my phone call.  I ordered it on a Friday & received it Monday morning.  With the Willwood setup in the front my stock wheels would no longer fit. The fronts would need a 17in wheel for proper clearance. Not wanting to spend a bunch of $ on what would be temporary wheels, I took my search to craiglist. Ended up scoring 3 Motegi Touge wheels for 10$. Couldn't beat that deal with a stick.  The wheel specs are 17x9 with 24 offset. They're not any where near perfect condition but they'll work for me. I wrapped them with 235/40ZR17 90W Frederal 595 RS-R tires. The rear tires are just factory size Ohtsu  all season tires. This wheel & tire combo aren't my long term solution. They're just meant to last through my clutch break in.

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I finally gathered all the parts to finish my 87-89 front end conversion. This had literally taken me until now to get all the components required to do so. Every part expect the 2 fenders are from different cars. There was some slight modifications needed to accommodate the later style headlight buckets. The hood required modification as well. The factory hood latch was removed to clear my charge pipe. Then locking Aerocatch latches were installed to secure the hood. (Part #  120-2100 ) For additional  support came in the form of 1/4in plates for the pins & Password JDM billet mounting plates for the hood. With headlight bucket(s) & hood modification tackled, everything else was a bolt on affair. Sadly the most satisfying part of this front end conversion was the installion of new hood struts. Normally these are completely blown out on Z31's. Meaning you'd have to resort to keeping a stick in the car to use as a hood prop or use visegrips. Which is just a big inconvenience.  As you can tell some of the photos are from different time periods of my build. I also included a video of the Aerocatch latches in action.

 

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At this point the only things that needed to be taken care of before the 1st drive was the bleeding of my clutch & brakes. With the help of my lovely girlfriend that was quickly knocked out. My goal was to drive my car before 2018 came. Motul 8068HL RBF 600 DOT-4 was used for my brakes & clutch. I also with switched my transmission fluid out to 50305 MT-90 75W90 GL-4. Now its the day of Christmas Eve. After double checking every nut & bolt I lowered the car down from the jack stands. Then I warmed the car up & began to adjust the tune. So I could actually attempt it's 1st drive. With the tune roughly adjusted, the car was ready to take out. Would it drive?..... or will I fail to meet my goal?....... Well I places my phone on a tripod & to record it either way...... Thankfully for me the car ACTUALLY DROVE!!!!  There's still a ton of tuning left to do but I finally was able to DRIVE my car for the 1st time!  I'm by NO means a tuner but I'm gong to give a try. I understand the drive isn't a very exciting for most but this was a huge accomplishment for me. I've included the videos below. This was a huge update! Sorry I wasn't able to release this update done than I did.  It should be well worth the wait IMO. Thanks to everybodyfor all support & following the build! Stay tuned.

 

 

 
 
 

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