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Project Rex Killer, 240z LS3


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#41 jeffer949

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Posted 13 October 2015 - 05:21 AM

I was completely kidding.  Did I skip over this but did you ever mention what your friends RX7 runs? Just curious how close you are to your goal. 

 

And obviously amazing work. 


Edited by jeffer949, 13 October 2015 - 05:21 AM.

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]1974 260ZT known as Stella- the temperamental bitch

#42 nathaninwa

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Posted 13 October 2015 - 05:36 AM

Thanks. I meant to get to this yesterday but got busy So my buddy's rx7 has ran an 11.6 at 115 mph. That was with a mild 406 iron block oldschool sbc. He is currently working on it now. He went with a 421 dart block and a powerglide. He will be caging it and back halfing the car like mine with a big wrinkle wall tire. And ironically I'll be doing the chassis work!

So in the end it's a close build. He has a block that is over 100lbs heavier than mine, but his glide is lighter than my 4l80e. He will be running some not the greatest iron heads in the beginning. If he moves to an alum head and takes advantage of the stroker, I get to turbo mine!

I'm thinking with a good converter, gears and wrinkle walls on my car, I should be knocking on 10.0's

At the end of the day, were really good friends and our builds have just upped each other's game quite a bit

Edited by nathaninwa, 13 October 2015 - 05:37 AM.


#43 RebekahsZ

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Posted 13 October 2015 - 09:48 AM

Racing with friends can be tricky. You gotta let em win every now and then, or they will get discouraged and will quit wanting to race. At least keep the race close. And never admit that you peddled it. Make up some excuse like: my timing is messing up at the top end.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#44 nathaninwa

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Posted 13 October 2015 - 09:28 PM

I could always drag the brake a little! Talked with the cam guy today and recommended at least a 4500 stall and he to is curious about the hp curve

And tonight I started changing out the standard TR6 plug for some TR6IX plugs

#45 nathaninwa

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Posted 14 October 2015 - 07:35 PM

edited for future front end stuff


Edited by nathaninwa, 17 October 2015 - 10:14 AM.


#46 nathaninwa

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 05:08 AM

Edited for front suspension


Edited by nathaninwa, 17 October 2015 - 10:14 AM.


#47 nathaninwa

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 08:12 AM

Question. I don't use the fresh air vents on the car that run through the fender. Can I cut these off without losing any strength?

#48 RebekahsZ

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 09:15 AM

I wouldn't cut them off-the "frame rails" are very thin.  I have considered whether they could be cleaned out and used as ducting for turbos (?) if I decided to try twins with one in the battery area and one where the brake booster is.


1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#49 nathaninwa

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 09:56 AM

Good point. Just looking for ways to shed some weight. I'm working with a machinist friend who is going to make some alum 300zx hubs. The new struts should save some weight and maybe I'll look into alum lower control arms

#50 RebekahsZ

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 11:58 AM

What's it weigh now? Cage?

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#51 nathaninwa

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 12:47 PM

I was 2500 race ready, then the hood, rear glass and cage door bars got installed. So let's call it 2600 now to be safe as fuel varies

I have a glass hood to install and wil do glass hatch and lexan rear window over the winter

It does have a full chromoly 10 point cage with dash bar

Edited by nathaninwa, 16 October 2015 - 12:48 PM.


#52 RebekahsZ

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Posted 16 October 2015 - 02:35 PM

I think 2600 is what most of us consider "race weight." You will have to make weight loss a major priority to do much better than that.  ie-removing door glass, removing all of the door structure other than the skin, deleting headlights, heater, wiper motor, lexan windshield and quarter glass, lighter tranny, etc.  For me, roll up windows and windows that don't scratch is a major plus.  Wipers and a heater that has defrost capability is awfully nice too.

zccjdm.com has a really nice looking fiberglass rear hatch with integrated rear spoiler.  If I was going to lexan rear window and fiberglass hood-I would consider that hatch.  If I build a second Z, it will have that hatch from the outset.


1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#53 nathaninwa

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Posted 17 October 2015 - 12:47 AM

I'm with you, heater and side glass are a must. I did get rid of the stock heater box in favor of an old engine cooler setup I had, just built and shroud around the cooling fan and I have defrost vents. That still needs installed tho, the heater line is looped inside the cabin for now. I'd like to get some led headlights, but having troubles finding some with plastic lenses

I figure with the hood, hatch and lithium battery along with some door cutting and other random stuff, 100lbs is doable. I need to pull the tranny, and may cut the allowed 6 square feet out of the tunnel iirc and re sheet metal with .040 alum and I like the stock seats, but will hold saw them up when I recover em.

But went to the dyno today and left all sad faced after learning about autos and dynos! My 10.7 pass at 132 was done with an off the trailer 415whp. After some fueling and slight timing changes the day ended at 460/400 and it's still makin good whp out at 7300 or so. I'll get the graph posted tomorrow. But I got the data I need for a proper converter, and I think I can get 10.0 out of this combo first thing next season after the minor changes and some aero mods

That website you posted is where my hood came from already! And we have talked about the hatch, along with doors and fenders. The doors and fenders are a little out of my budget but the hatch is affordable along with the cowl setup. I may revamp the hoods height as I don't need that much and I really like the stocks hood appearance, so I may take about an inch out of it

Edited by nathaninwa, 17 October 2015 - 12:52 AM.


#54 RebekahsZ

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Posted 17 October 2015 - 04:21 AM

I haven't heard that much about how much fenders save in weight. My CF hood does a lot (I haven't weighed them comparatively), but removing the steel hood was a 2 man job and the CF hood I can lift off myself (most of the trouble is with the hood pins and akwardness of the thing).  I keep it on a hinge most of the time for ease of opening.  Once I see your dyno graph I will have some questions about your cam (to learn, not to try to teach).

 

Keith


1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#55 1969honda

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Posted 17 October 2015 - 05:40 AM

Look at post #27, trucklite 7" LEDs slot right in, kinda heavy though.

http://forums.hybrid...s-before/page-2

#56 Zfan1

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Posted 17 October 2015 - 06:19 AM

The fenders are light, not going to gain much there. My 1971 240Z with a 4L80E and LSX iron block is a pig, 2900 and some change with my 200 lb butt planted in it.  My old set up was a 416 rwhp 6 liter and it went a best of 10.66 at 123, you have a lot left in her with that mph!



#57 nathaninwa

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Posted 17 October 2015 - 10:20 AM

https://youtu.be/x-DAHyEqclQ

FullSizeRender_zpsvf5zkecf.jpg

#58 RebekahsZ

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Posted 18 October 2015 - 09:13 AM

Just for comparison, this is my stock LS2 with JTR shorty headers, an u deed rice crank pulley and a tune. Brand of dyno unknown.

Attached Files


1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#59 nathaninwa

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Posted 18 October 2015 - 12:10 PM

Which transmission?

#60 RebekahsZ

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Posted 20 October 2015 - 02:49 PM

T56.  Only 1 trip to the track, where it ran 11.0 at 126 with a 1.43 60-foot.


Edited by RebekahsZ, 20 October 2015 - 02:50 PM.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!





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