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Mikelly

Well I started it tonight...

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...and Dropping fuel presure issue appears to have been resolved, although I will be swapping in the return style regulator tomorrow afternoon and trying it again. The presure did fall off on the gauge mounted on the regulator, but held at 7psi on the guage on the fuel rail... Interesting. I ran it for 20 minutes and it held at 7. I am going to buy a relay and wire it in for the sake of it, but the problem seems to be resolved. One thing I'm gonna do is jet the carb down one size on the primaries and see if I can lean it out a hair and get the heat out of the engine bay. After the trouble shooting is over, I'll go ahead and swap out the starter. I need to get that back to the auto parts store before the time runs out on it and get the regulaotr back to Jegs before the return policy expires... Anyone need a new Holley pump and regulator? Guess I hae a spare...

Mike

 

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"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

 

[This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited May 12, 2000).]

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Wrong wrong wrong.... I have no idea what the he!! is happening with my screwiey fuel delivery, but this much I know... If it is warm during the day, the car still drops presure under operating temps. Now, question is this.. coolant temps are below 180 degrees... but when I touch the outlet side of the fuel pump it feels hot... it is four to five inches away from the tail pipe. When I touch the fuel log under the hood, it is also hot to the touch... Could I be boiling fuel before it gets to the regulator? If so, do the Hi temp wraps sold by some of the companies out there work well on fuel lines and pumps and would that be enough? I opened the gap on my plugs from 32 to 40 to allow for more thorough fuel burn in the chamber (& possibly lowering temps)and the plug seemed to do well. Any ideas would be appreciated..... I'm losing my mind.

 

Mike

 

------------------

 

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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Mike, Why is your fuel system so intent on torturing you? Criminy, you've been through that whole thing a billion times. You've got to be getting close to resolving this sucker. Does everyone's fuel systems hold pressure to the pound, or is there some natural variation as they warm up?

What are you running for intitial timing? Also curious what your cam profile is. Duration @ .050.

I thought retarding initial timing raised exhaust temps. At least when done to extremes.

JS

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Mike,

what model carb do you have?.... When you say jet the carb down, are you making this

decision based on the car running "fat" at an idle? or are you getting choked with fumes at higher rpm? It took months but i finally got my carb tuned where i like it

and talk about a difference in the way she ran (strong enought to bust the diff)

as for your fuel problem i think i mentioned vaper lock a while back, but how

hot does the pump get? If I was you i would go back to the holley blue and the regulator that it come with and do away with the return line... My pump is mounted in the stock location with 1/2 line and no return

and the power is straight through a 20 amp

switch and it doesnt vary 1/2 a pound..

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Myron,

I am using the Holley pump and regulator. I put it on on Saturday afternoon when the BG regulator was pulled to be sent back for returns to JEGS. As for the carb, I have a BG SportClaw 750 double pumper. I'm not sure what the current jets are.

My cam profile is 292/294 duration, 535/550 lift on a hydraulic roller cam with 1.5 roller rockers. Don't know what the lobe seperation is, I'm at work and the cam card is at home....

As for the vapor lock, I thought I cured it by lowering the fuel cell and letting the vent rollover valve get more air...

Reason I was looking into backing off the timing or reduincg the fuel to the carb by other means is that the under hood temps are real high, although the temp gauge shows that the car is only running at 180 degrees even with high air temps outside. However, you can touch anything on the passenger side of the engine bay and it gets real hot... but not on the drivers side. I realize the engine being closer to the passenger side will increase temps, but I have my vacuum canister mounted where the battery used to be and it gets hot to the touch (It is polished aluminum which does draw heat, but...).

 

I'm confused, but I am going to confirm this "High temp in the fuel line" suspicion tonight by running a can of gas to the extra pump I have, right by the front fender, then run the line up to the regulator and into the carb and see if that stabilized the pressure.

Then I will know if it is from the heat at the mufflers or under hood temps...

Mike

 

------------------

 

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

 

[This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited May 15, 2000).]

 

[This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited May 16, 2000).]

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Mike..

Have you tried driving the car with the

hood off? Are you using a 77-78 vented

hood? I thought that I had a cooling

problem and in the process of checking

it out I took the hood off my 71 and

there was not any overheating any more.

The non vented hood traps a lot of heat.

Dave....

 

[This message has been edited by Dave (edited May 15, 2000).]

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Ya know, I remember seeing Henry Costanzo's fix for overheating. I saw it at the 95 Atlanta Z car convention. A 4" muffin fan in each inner fender to pull the heat out of the engine compartment. Here's his write up on it: http://www.georgiazclub.com/v8cooling.htm

 

I don't know if this is Mike's problem, but I thought I'd mention this remedy.

 

Pete

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I saw that muffin fan fix when I had the

overheating problem. I had picked up a

couple of them and was going to install

the fans. But when I removed the hood

the problem went away. I have since

switched to the vented hood. The 77-78

hood is not a cure all for the under hood

heat but it shure helped.

 

Dave...

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Mike, I removed the power valve and jetted

my carb with 76's on all 4 corners..

If you have a power valve in the carb then

the jets need to be aprox 8#'s smaller on the

primarys.. I also had to completely remove

the 4 air bleeds to get it to lean out at an idle, otherwise it would smoke like a diesel

and smell worse!

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I have the vented hood already. Not sure what I'm gonna do. I'm probably going to turn the cell around so the sump is pointed forward and then move the fuel pump up close to the original location and then re-route the fuel lines under the hood away from the stock battery box area, maybe bring them up from the front of the car. Last fall when I was driving it some I didn't have this issue, so maybe it is directly heat related... Crazy...

 

Mike

 

------------------

 

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

 

[This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited May 16, 2000).]

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I started re-routing lines tonight and I'm gonna need a 120 degree bend AN fitting at the pump to get away from the exhaust and then I'm running half inch aluminum line up the outside of the frame rail all the way up to the wheel well... up under the headlight bucket and then back into the engine bay. This, along with some copious insulation in the few areas I can't seem to avoid, will hopefully solve the whole issue... I looked at spinning the fuel cell 180 degrees so the sump is in the front instead of the back, and I'm not sure I want to do that. Not much roon back there with the fuel cell, fuel filter, and pump all needing room...

 

Mike

 

------------------

 

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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