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Stock Car Mafia's '78 280z LS2 Build


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#1 Stock Car Mafia

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Posted 01 November 2015 - 07:48 AM

For many years I've been intrigued by the 70's z car's that I'd rarely see in the upper midwest.  It was a rare occurance you'd catch one driving and I was always aroused by how small and sleek they looked.  I started my search to find a project z over a year ago and could find nothing but cancerous crap up here in the salty winters we have.  

 

I expanded my search and felt that a field trip was bound to happen to get a solid car.  I ended up talking with a nice older gentlman from Seattle (Kent) Washington that had an all original car that he had owned and maintained meticulously since 1990.  After talking for about a week, I decided that was a car worth purchasing.  I flew out to Seattle in June and took a chance at driving a 37 year old car on a 1,700 mile trip back to Minnesota.  

 

And so the journey begins....For those who are intrigued by pictures, my photobucket link is below:

 

http://s176.photobuc...Z?sort=3&page=1

 

IMG_20150619_093857_zpss7n9xbfm.jpg

 

I made it back with no issues.

 

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The interior is in great shape with the typical fading of the black carpet.  The dash has no cracks and the driver seat has a small tear.  The body has been repainted but it was a quick spray with no bondo used.  It is really faded and flaking off in some spots.  

 

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The only signs of rust on the car is one spot in the back hatch area, where I assumed water was sitting and then in the battery tray as well. 

 

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After the long trip, it definitely needed a bath!

 

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Edited by Stock Car Mafia, 12 August 2016 - 10:58 AM.

Loose is fast and on the edge of out of control.


#2 Stock Car Mafia

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Posted 01 November 2015 - 07:55 AM

As I've been quite busy with some life changes, I've spent the last couple months collecting information on my ideas for what kind of build I am looking at doing.  I'll slowly add the progress of the build up to today.  The build will be around an LS2/T56 pull out of a 2005 GTO.


Loose is fast and on the edge of out of control.


#3 RB26powered74zcar

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Posted 01 November 2015 - 11:39 AM

Looks like you scored big time on a nice orig. cond. Z.  Congrads!!!


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RB26dettZ pics

 

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#4 Stock Car Mafia

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Posted 01 November 2015 - 01:05 PM

Thanks RB26.  All I have to say is your car extremely nice!  Which brand fender flares are you running?  I like the look of the quality.

 

The custom grill is very sharp as well.


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#5 Stock Car Mafia

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Posted 02 November 2015 - 07:38 PM

The very next thing that had to go are those glorious chrome horns.  I feel much better with them gone  :2thumbs:

 

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For the most part, I love how clean the body is.

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I removed the rear bumper and saved the right support for another day.  

IMG_20150624_203714_zpsgn46apxk.jpg


Loose is fast and on the edge of out of control.


#6 V-Fib

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Posted 02 November 2015 - 09:26 PM

Congratulations on the nice find. Very clean body indeed - especially for a Washington car. We don't salt our roads but the amount of rainfall takes its toll. The previous owners must have garaged.

#7 Stock Car Mafia

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Posted 03 November 2015 - 06:24 AM

He had it garaged. I'm sure it sat out here and there, hence the rust in the back hatch portion. I can manage with the one dent on the passenger door for now.

The underneath just has surface rust but the undercoating is in good shape.

I have the ground control weld in coil over kit going in at some point. We will see how dreaded those spindle pins are then!

Loose is fast and on the edge of out of control.


#8 RebekahsZ

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Posted 03 November 2015 - 08:21 PM

Start soaking them in penetrating oil now, especially the locking pin. Look into a spindle pin puller, and use 5/8" bolts in place of the spindle pins when you reassemble. I think you should keep those stock wheel covers. I agree with the coilovers, but keep those wheels! That car is righteous.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#9 Stock Car Mafia

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Posted 04 November 2015 - 07:47 PM

Keith, I've soaked them a few times over the last month and will continue to do so.  Does anyone sell that spindle pin puller still today?  I have an air hammer that I planned on using if I can't get them out.  I'll have to dig and see if there is a write up on those 5/8" bolts for replacements.  I take it, its not worth buying a second set of spindle pins?


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#10 RebekahsZ

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Posted 04 November 2015 - 07:57 PM

The spindle pins are a bitch every time. I haven't done the 5/8" conversion but rumor. Has it that it is much easier to deal with. I don't have a link, but I'm certain we have discussed it. I have used a spindle puller and I've done the hammer-cut-torch-hammer thing. You might get lucky. There used to be a spindle pin puller rental here. Been a while. Try searching the suspension FAQs and the Vendor sub forums. Might find it there. I put antiseize on mine liberally before reassembly. Next time one side was easy, one side was still a bitch.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#11 Stock Car Mafia

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Posted 05 November 2015 - 04:32 AM

Thanks for the info. Luckily I'm going to get this thread caught up and I'll focus my time on the engine swap first! I'll keep spraying them in the meantime.

Loose is fast and on the edge of out of control.


#12 Stock Car Mafia

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Posted 05 November 2015 - 05:39 PM

Since I'm "sensitive" to sunlight, I tinted the windows to 30%.  In MN, I needed to get a tint prescription to go lower than 50%.  

 

IMG_20150629_164058_zpskclyvwd4.jpg

 

The louvers will be coming off.

 

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Since plastidip is extremely cheap, I like to play around with it :)

 

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We also removed all the side moulding on the car.  Many were small screws, but there were a few rivets that had to be drilled out.  Which form was from factory?

 

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I finally dropped the gas tank and get the last rear bumper mount removed.  For now, I RTV'ed pennies over the holes until it get permanently fixed later.  :huh:

 

IMG_20150703_200640_zpsh5qgmw8e.jpg


Loose is fast and on the edge of out of control.


#13 88dangerdan

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Posted 05 November 2015 - 06:34 PM

Rivets

#14 Stock Car Mafia

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Posted 11 November 2015 - 08:42 AM

That's good to know dangerdan.


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#15 Stock Car Mafia

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Posted 11 November 2015 - 09:05 AM

After the 4th of July I finally got my urethane front air dam and BRE type carbon fiber spoiler from the Z store.  The air dam fit really well and I ended up using larger stock bumper bolts than the small bolts and nuts provided.  The spoiler was damaged during shipping and the clear coat was not very shiny.  I ended up having to pay for shipping back but the replacement was definitely better.

 

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I also purchased some smoked lenses and LED's with resistors from Klearz.com.  They are a Canadian company and I have been very pleased with their products and support.  Tina has been really helpful and I would recommend them to anyone else looking for these.  

 

IMG_20150803_181208_zpsnsh1ub6c.jpg

 

My dad would kill me.  I am having fun with exterior mods and not actually working on the car!  My theory is I am still able to enjoy the car until the snow flies and then it can be stripped apart.


Loose is fast and on the edge of out of control.


#16 Stock Car Mafia

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Posted 11 November 2015 - 09:22 AM

So here are some ideas I am throwing around for my winter project:

 

Motor/Trans:

 - LS2 with T56 that was pulled out of an 05 GTO at 60,000 miles.

 - Hawks Third Gen engine and tranny mounts

 - Super Damper 10% Underdrive Pulley

 - Aftermarket cam

 - C6/LS3 oil pan

 - Replace flywheel and clutch

 - Tilton/Wilwood Clutch MC with remote bleeder

 - I plan to use the stock harness and ECU which has been flashed to remove most non essentials.

 - Custom tune 

 

Exhaust:

 - Hawks Third Gen headers

 - 3" V bands to X Pipe with dual 3" exits

 

Fuel System:

 - Fuel Cell 

 - Walbro fuel pump

 - Corvette FPR

 - Earl's Performance Pro-Lite Ultra Fuel Lines

 - -6/-8AN fittings

 

Drivetrain:

 - Driveshaft Shop 3" Aluminum driveshaft

 - R200 LSD or LSD insert for my current R200

 - Custom build half shafts

 - Billet stub axles

 

Suspension:

 - Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushing Kit - Black

 - Ground Control Weld In Coilover Kit

 - Tokiko Illumina Shocks

 - 225/250 Spring Rate

 

Some of these items will not be done in the first stage of the build to keep things simpler.  


Edited by Stock Car Mafia, 11 November 2015 - 08:15 PM.

Loose is fast and on the edge of out of control.


#17 Zzeal

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Posted 11 November 2015 - 10:26 AM

From experience, I can tell you that a 25% underdrive damper will NOT work (well) on the street.

 

It slows down the mechanical water pump too much, especially at idle, and you'll overheat.

 

You could always run an electric water pump.... $$$, otherwise I'd advise just a 10% U.D. damper.

 

 

 

Steve

 

 

 



#18 Stock Car Mafia

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Posted 11 November 2015 - 03:38 PM

Zzeal, even if I use a 160 deg. thermostat would that be a problem?  Maybe a 10% is a better way to go.  My current pulley has the rubber coming apart and I don't want to use an SLP or any other knock off brand damper.  


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#19 Zzeal

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Posted 11 November 2015 - 04:13 PM

Nope, a cooler 'stat won't help.... tried that too.

 

Seems 25% U.D.'s are for dedicated race/drag cars.



#20 Stock Car Mafia

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Posted 11 November 2015 - 08:16 PM

An electric water pump would be nice but I think I will get by with a 10% for now.


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