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Stock Car Mafia's '78 280z LS2 Build


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Drinking my coffee and watching youtube vids, so I might as well post up some of the details over the last few days.  

 

I got around to installing the engine bay inspection light that I painted.  There was no way I was going to remove this classic from it!

 

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I picked up some 18 gauge metal from Discount Steel.  I got a 4' x 3' section so I had plenty to play around with.  I made a carboard cut out of the size that I would need.  

 

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The holes for the lines and the tank fittings were 1" I think.  I just used a hole saw to cut those holes.  I did a very rough job of cutting out the fuel cell cap and also cut out the location of the sender since the post was interferring with how the metal sat.  

 

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Next I cut out a circle for the cover.  

 

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I picked up a cheap hinge and latch from Menards.  Thinking in a pinch and just wanting to get this part done is why I decided on this.

 

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Sized everything up to make sure my cuts were right.  Remember to measure once and cut twice! ;)

 

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I took wire loom and ran it around every hole and then used left over weatherstripping from the gauges to seal the cap.

 

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The rest of the weatherstrip went around the bottom of the cover.  

 

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I then pop riveted 6 inches apart all the way around to sandwich the metal to the floor pan.  I don't think this will be the permanent way that I tin off the floor but it is a quick fix for now.  I am still looking for ideas for a better latch system, but I might wait until I fabricate a fill neck to behind the license plate.  

 

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The good news is the reverse lights work and the new reverse and license plate LED's look very nice :)

 

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I piggied the oil pressure and coolant temp lights from one source and I think that is why the lights don't work for those.  My buddy was telling me each LED needs its own power wire.  I guess we will figure that out later.

 

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Well more to come hopefully soon!  This weekend is quite busy but I am trying to get the girlfriend to help out a bit with the extended weekend that we have.

 

 - Fix LED's in dash

 - Tach is not reading so another source wire needs to be utilized

 - Wire up 2nd radiator fan

 - Tidy up all wiring in engine bay. Mostly done.

 - Route and weld up exhaust

 - FENDER FLARES are needed before I can drive

 

I am still waiting for Joe's axle and flange package.  He said he mailed it but the USPS is showing no updates or scans for the package which has me worried.  Everyone else has gotten their order except for me...I guess I have to be patient.

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I hate to see those beautiful fenders go the way of the saw, but it's time to get cutting! That first cut is like circumcision. It hurts!!!!! But it opens up possibilities. Cut high so you can put the pedal down without worrying about hellaflush tire cuts.

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Looking good and sounds great too.  Must feel awesome with where your at, progress wise. One day I hope to get me car running...

 

Disepyon, I've been following your thread and you are doing one HELL of a job.  I can see you are doing everything right!  Yours will be mint when it is done!

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Hnnnnng... dumping my VG33 on the floor right now... ordering LSx....

 

I like that you are staying in the Nissan family though!  Everybody frowns upon a LS swap as it's not traditional but I guess I am not building one to make the manu.  I am building it to have an over the top car!

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Congrats!!! Big day! Your car is so nice and clean-makes mine look like corn beef hash.

 

Keith, your car is definitely a nice one!  I have to give you a lot of credit for all the ideas and details you post, but also how willing you are to support guys like myself.

 

I hate to see those beautiful fenders go the way of the saw, but it's time to get cutting! That first cut is like circumcision. It hurts!!!!! But it opens up possibilities. Cut high so you can put the pedal down without worrying about hellaflush tire cuts.

 

Good news is the rear fenders got partially cut last night.  The end result is we got to take it out to drive :)

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I started with taping off the fenders yesterday so I could start cutting for flares.  I knew this project will take a couple days with several hours of work. 

 

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I didn't take many more pictures for the cutting portion.  Katie was able to help get a lot of the interior put in the car.  She got the carpet, seatbelts, seats, and center console put in.  At this point it was already about 6-7pm and I was kind of dying to actually take the damn car out.  We ended up taking the front fenders off since I couldn't turn the wheels.  

 

And then this happened.

 

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My buddies helped put the stock axles in last week since I am still waiting for the shortened axle to rebuild the Z31T CV's.  We were able to stop and get some more gas for the car too.  All I have to say is this thing is REALLY LOUD with no exhaust, my lord.  And to top it off it definitely moves!  We took it out for a good 30 mins and also to get some beef to grill.  We both were smiling non stop!  I still am giggling about it.  

 

When we got back a county sheriff was in my development waiting for us.  He got a call when we left about a car that had really loud exhaust.  He was pretty calm about the situation and I was really damn polite.  He said "This probably isn't the safest vehicle on the road." and my first comment back was "Actually it probably is."  He did mention I should have the original car flares and rotary motor in the car for collector's plates.  Something I guess I need to read up on.  He checked my stuff and came back and said he is going to give me a warning and to get home as quietly as possible.

 

It turns out one of my car/bike buddys was driving by and saw us pulled over.  He took this picture from his driveway.  LOL

 

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That black rubbery stuff between the panels in the rear is a mess when you go to make a lip and stitch the two back together.

 

It messes with the weld, and it will catch fire and burn right next to the weld.  When the metal is hot, even from just the little tack welds to stitch it together, it melts and gets drawn to the heat where it will catch fire.  It looks sort of like a candle flame when the wick was too long.  It will leave a black sooty mess on the paint, too.

 

Try to get as much out as you can, I wish I had done it when it was really cold out so maybe it would have been more brittle for removal.

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That's good to know about that weatherstripping. I might not change this until next winter. I'll remove as much as I can then use MEK or paint stripper to get the rest off. It was a really nice quick solution so I can get the car on the road. It seals really well and doesn't stink inside the car from exhaust.

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Yesterday was a warm one.  I think I was able to work from 2:30 to about 9 last night.  

 

Getting the fronts to fit was kind of a challenge.  I needed to shift them forward to make room for the width and offset of these tires.  I cut a little of the front fender first so I could turn the wheel and see where I'd rub.  I worked on just the fenders first.  Bumper second.

 

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I will not be able to utilize my side markers with the flares.  All the sidemarkers will be deleted when it comes to body work anyways.

 

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Next was shaving hte bumper.  I pretty much cut straight down from where the fender was cut.  I took a little off at a time and kept bolting it back up to check it.  I did use my smaller jack and jack on the LCA to compress the fronts.  I think I need to unscrew my springs all the way to get a better judgement.  

 

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I didn't drill the holes for the flares yet.  I am going to get an appointment scheduled with a good alignment guy in Golden Valley first.  I just want to make sure I am set before I make the fronts permanent.  At this point I already wanted to bolt everything up and just go for a cruise.  BUT I decided I should work on the HID projector install first.

 

I think these lenses look ok.  I hope the look grows on me a little more.

 

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The shells needed to be cut open so the lense can stick through the back and to gain access to the light bulbs.  I just used a 4" cut off wheel and cleaned it up with a carbide bit.

 

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I needed to grind down the tabs on the lights in order to get them to fit.  I really should have ground down the two outside thicket pieces as well but I got the lenses centered and tightened them down.  

 

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I threw the lights in and ran the wiring.  Most of the access wiring was pulled through the fender and zip tied and clamped to the inside of the wheel well.  The driver side wiring had to be run behind the motor and along the driver frame rail.  I am starting to have too many 12V wires being run to the batter and the wiring in my mind is starting to look JANKY.  I am looking for ideas and I think a junction box may be needed?  This might allow me to clean up some of the wiring.  I am not TOO worried at the moment because I will more than likely do this next winter.  I just want to get this car road worthy and start driving the damn thing.  

 

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The lights look GREAT!  I got the angle for both leveled.  I the high beams work but the passenger light low beam doesn't.  I reached out to Dapper to see if they have any insight.  

 

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I think I am gonna have a hard time about not taking pictures when I start driving it....haha

 

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After I got back, I finished bolting the fenders and got the cowl, inspection lids, hood, and wipers back on.  Minus the flares, I am almost "legal"!  I took off the vent cover on the drivers side as well.

 

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I just cant get enough of the body shape of these cars...

 

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So here are some items I know that need to be addressed:

 

 - Calibrate speedo

 - Diagnose why tach isn't working

 - Fix 2 gauge pod backlighting

 - Fix low beam passenger side

 - Paint flares

 - Mount flares

 - GET AXLES AND FLANGES

 - Rebuild axles

 

I might be missing a few things but I am just on cloud 9.  I love this thing!!!!

Edited by Stock Car Mafia
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I completed the flares (not seaming back the rear fenders) last night.  Did a double check of mostly everything and checked lugs and air pressures again.  

 

Made it to work just fine!

 

I ran my scanner and found a long ass list of fault codes that seem to all be related to the emissions stuff that wasn't deleted like the motor/trans seller said he did.

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I've never put a scanner on my Z. I don't have an idiot light. So long as temp and pressure are good, I'm putting the pedal down! My damn truck throws codes all the time. It has an idiot light-what a pain in the arse.

Edited by RebekahsZ
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I've never put a scanner on my Z. I don't have an idiot light. So long as temp and pressure are good, I'm putting the pedal down! My damn truck throws codes all the time. It has an idiot light-what a pain in the arse.

 

I hear you.  The very first place my eyes were on was the oil pressure on start up.  Then any leaks.  Oil and water have been good and yes, I don't have my dummie light wired to anything either.  I was thinking about using the old red "Fuel" light for this down the road.  I just replaced the thermostat last night as an added $10 precaution as well.

 

So there are a SHIT TON of codes.  But all of them are P04xx based which are the emissions/governmental regulated codes.  I checked and I should be ok.  Just need them deleted at some point.  

 

The only ones I was initially concerned with are:

 

P0141 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2

P0161 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2

 

I think these are the for the rear O2 sensors which obviously have not been deleted.  

 

These ones I figured out quite fast:

 

P0650 - This is the CEL for the MIL light not functioning.  lol

P0803 - Skip Shift not functioning.  Don't even have the sensor in the tranny anymore :)

Edited by Stock Car Mafia
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