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Stock Car Mafia's '78 280z LS2 Build

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RebekahsZ    106

If you re-cut your rear flares, put jackstands under the front to level the car.  I had mine jacked up just in back like your photo, and my flares are rotated toward the rear a little and it looks "off" now that it is on level ground.  All because the car was sitting at a nose-down attitude when I drilled for the mounting bolts.  Longer coilover springs are available on Speedway.com for $55 each.  Just figure out how much you need to raise the car and order longer springs.

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Leveling the car is a good idea.  Here I thought I did the right thing by setting the car to ride height before I mounted them.  But with it at full weight, you can't remove the spring to check how far the wheel tucks when cutting.  Can't have my cake and eat it too!  The good thing is it is close...

 

I would consider getting longer springs.  But I do have a lot of travel left in the coilover in case I want to raise it.  I will get new springs when I can reinforce the chassis and raise that spring rate :)

 

Keith I need to set goals and time frames like you have year in and year out.  I have been behind the 8 ball for 2017!

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A few days ago i pulled the dash out to fix two of the gauge lights that didn't work.  I assumed the issue was I piggy backed two lights from one power wire.  I ended up cutting the oil pressure and water pressure lights and rewired one to the cigarette lighter bulb.  I put dash back in and the lights weren't fixed.  

 

I pulled the dash once again and took the LED bulbs out and revered the 2 pins.  Voila!  The bulbs now work!  What I don't like about the Autometer LED's is they don't mark which pin needs the positive feed.  So the side stamped "12V" I figured was the hot pin.  This worked for 4 out of 7 of them.  

 

The next task was to wire a 1000 ohm resistor to power up the tachometer signal wire.  The first time I had the dash out I  just crimped the wire to see if that resistor was enough to get a signal.  

 

20170220_144030_zpsow3df9sv.jpg

 

The gauge worked!  But not perfectly...The rpm was off by a factor of 2 and read low.  I looked at the back gauge and it was set to 8 cylinder mode.  I flipped the second pin down to 4 cylinder mode and that took care of it.  

 

So right now it's more or less waiting for spring.  I could easily toss the car together in a night or two and take it out.  But we haven't eluded winter as we have more snow coming in tonight. 

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Racer X 69    0

 

 

 - Trim Clips and Pins - I need to find a bulk pack of the pins!  Everytime you push them through to remove some interior they get lost or stuck in a spot you can't reach.  These have to be sold somewhere.

 

 

The dealers used to carry them, but I suppose that none do for such old cars anymore. Motorsport Auto used to have them too.

 

I've used an air vacuum to retrieve the little buggers from cavities. Air vacs use a 3/4" vinyl hose, and I stick one size smaller inside of that to get some reach into those deep places around the wheel arches.

 

And look for the weep holes where the quarter panel skin is spot welded to the inner unibody structure.Sometimes you can blow shop air into them and find all kinds of stuff.

 

 

 

 

 

 - Trim Clips and Pins - I need to find a bulk pack of the pins!  Everytime you push them through to remove some interior they get lost or stuck in a spot you can't reach.  These have to be sold somewhere.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 - Fender Flares - Who makes a good set of plastic molded ones?  I got the fiber glass ones from TheZStore and ended up returning them because the fitment was pretty bad.

Instead of flares, why not fat fenders? Like these:

 

Darius-Khashabi.jpg

 

I have this bodywork for my GT2 car (not mounted yet). I've seen a few cars running on the street with the same setup, like the one in the picture. Looks nice, and makes room for big tires and wheels.

 

https://www.ztrix.com/fender-kits/280yz/

 

You know you want it.

 

And fiberglass doesn't rust.

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The dealers used to carry them, but I suppose that none do for such old cars anymore. Motorsport Auto used to have them too.

 

I've used an air vacuum to retrieve the little buggers from cavities. Air vacs use a 3/4" vinyl hose, and I stick one size smaller inside of that to get some reach into those deep places around the wheel arches.

 

And look for the weep holes where the quarter panel skin is spot welded to the inner unibody structure.Sometimes you can blow shop air into them and find all kinds of stuff.

 

 

 

Instead of flares, why not fat fenders? Like these:

 

Darius-Khashabi.jpg

 

I have this bodywork for my GT2 car (not mounted yet). I've seen a few cars running on the street with the same setup, like the one in the picture. Looks nice, and makes room for big tires and wheels.

 

https://www.ztrix.com/fender-kits/280yz/

 

You know you want it.

 

And fiberglass doesn't rust.

 

I definitely need to get in there and see what I can find.  I have taken the air compressor many times to no avail.  Trust me Racer X, that is one of the cars that I drool over!  I would love to get that kit some day, but I am waiting to do all the body work, until I am "happy" with the car.  Who knows if that day will ever come.  

 

Which flares did you order from RHDJapan?

 

That is where the flares came from.  They fit the best BY FAR.  I had another set (can't recall who) and they fit like crap.  If you are looking for the right choice, go with RHDJapan.  

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MRGierut    0
Posted (edited)

That is where the flares came from. They fit the best BY FAR. I had another set (can't recall who) and they fit like crap. If you are looking for the right choice, go with RHDJapan.

Gotcha. I checked their website and it looks like they carry a few different types/names. I wasn't sure which set you bought.

Edited by MRGierut

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Well it turns out, we finally had some free time this weekend and I was lucky enough to get out in the garage.  

 

I have the exhaust off, waiting for the new V band bold to show up, so I went ahead and welded all the pin holes shut.  There was probably 8 spots total.  

 

I also rewired and extended a handful of wires that run to the positive post on the battery.  I wanted to try to hide them so it doesn't look like a rats nest.  It is "better".  Down the road I still plan on hiding the whole body harness underneath the fender so the engine bay has that cleaner look.  

 

I got a request on Friday from someone wanting to buy my stock steering knuckles.  I asked $40 so he took them.  I needed to get them off for Monday so I took the time on Sunday to replace them on the car.

 

Snapchat-99056919_zpsh8sins3l.jpg

 

It was a pretty simple process to get everything apart.  I had to lower the threaded coilover all the way down so I could compress the shock and get the strut housing off the knuckle.  

 

Snapchat-1250908990_zpsxzxmygzc.jpg

 

The tie rod end and ball joint took some convincing to get free.  The only problem I really ran in to was figuring out how to get the castle nut secure...

 

20170305_113739_zps9p5henly.jpg

 

There is no room to add a cotter pin, so I just added red locktite to the nut and torqued it to spec on the higher end.  Will this be sufficient guys, or is there another route I should take?  A regular nut and a locking washer???

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When I dropped the car, the toe was WAY OFF.  It only took 5 times or so to get it dialed in.  I haven't test drove the car yet since I don't have my full exhaust.  The car really runs like shit with open headers now, and I believe it is due to the lack of back pressure and the camshaft I have added.

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MRGierut    0

If you re-cut your rear flares, put jackstands under the front to level the car.  I had mine jacked up just in back like your photo, and my flares are rotated toward the rear a little and it looks "off" now that it is on level ground.  All because the car was sitting at a nose-down attitude when I drilled for the mounting bolts.  Longer coilover springs are available on Speedway.com for $55 each.  Just figure out how much you need to raise the car and order longer springs.

What's the best way to check if the car is level, putting a level on the door sill or frame rail?

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I'll have a hard time containing myself over the next few weeks but I will have a big update coming in roughly 4 weeks!  I am in the midst of preparing for it but will post up when I have more to speak of  :2thumbs:  :D

 

During the Phoenix race today I would sneak out in the garage periodically.  I had a little 3 yr. old helper assisting me in replacing my blinker bulbs.  I was looking to chase down an issue with my blinkers.  Last year I had a small poof of smoke from under the steering column that gave me QUITE a scare.  It turns out the blinker switch shorted out and slightly melted the plastic piece and the power wire.

 

My hazards work but my blinkers don't.  I cleaned up the switch and wire contacts and am able to get right blinkers when you hold it in just the right spot.  I am able to jump the wires and the blinkers work fine, so I know it is due to the blinker mechanism.  I guess I'll leave my under dash and center console tore out until I get it fixed.  Let's hope it doesn't stay that way all year lol

 

I am looking for some guidance on a rear sway bar and rear mount setup like the AZC dog legs.  I didn't find what sway bar fits and where to get it from.  Any advice you guys have would be great!

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BLOZ UP    19

I highly recommend a relay kit for the parking/signal lights and the headlights. You can also get LED bulbs that significantly reduce the load through the stock switch--negating the need for a relay for the parking lights.

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Right now it has LED bulbs all the way around.  I think that cuts down on the load, however I think the harness and stock switches are just getting to the end of their life.  When I strip the car down next, I will rewire the whole thing and only have the necessities and definitely invest more time in organizing and routing of all circuits.  I want a CLEAN install, not added stuff just piggy backed on the stock harness.  :)  

 

I highly recommend a relay kit for the parking/signal lights and the headlights. You can also get LED bulbs that significantly reduce the load through the stock switch--negating the need for a relay for the parking lights.

 

Right now I have been spending as much time as I can reading on HPTuners and trying to digest that software.  It is definitely a process and takes a focus to comprehend it.  I am confident I will get there instead of depending on tuners.  No fault to those guys, I just feel I could educate myself a little deeper in to this passion!

 

I got the car out this weekend for the first cars and coffee of the year.  My god, this event keeps getting bigger in regards to people and cars.  It was packed this year.  I was fortunate enough this weekend to have a photographer catch the car in action!

 

17426330_10154523022452532_8895481830463

 

17632264_1311899132226954_59131324979616

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I will have to look this up.  As I recall, I could never find the manufacturer of this hood, only pictures of it.  I knew it is the one I wanted but they quit making them a long time ago, so I had to buy a used one that I found out of California.  

It's been a while since I read the whole thread.. Can you re share what hood you are running?

 

If you can find that video, send me a PM on here or on Facebook so I can check it out!

Someone caught video as you were leaving that was posted in the C&C facebook group, too.

 

Thanks!  It's been a lot of work to get to this point, but my imagination prevents me from being satisfied :)  

That thing looks pretty damn good rolling down the street. Great pictures!

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So I've been debating for months and keeping my eyes open for used engines and superchargers.  I took the plunge and got a fully forged LS3 416 stroker off of LS1tech.

 

20170410_152906_zps0sl4papb.jpg

 

It has:  

ARP main studs, head studs, and rod bolts

Callies Compstar crank

Callies Compstar H beam rods

Wiseco -3cc pistons gapped for nitrous/blower

Trickflow 235cc cathedral port heads milled 0.045"

11.98:1 compression ratio

10296 Melling ported high pressure oil pump

BTR 247/255 .624/.624 113+3 cam

Katech timing chain

10% underdrive ATI damper 

 

The motor has the Corvette pulley so I am going to be cutting it close for steering rack clearance.  If it is close, I have a few ideas of eliminating it.  

 

I have had next to no time to even dig in to this project yet but I do have my old LS2 tune file and the tune file from this motor.  I have been trying to read up on HPTuners and trying to get a grasp on it for my own pleasure.  Since I have both tune files, I do believe I can get the car running.  Granted his tune was done in EFI Live, where most refrence tables have inverted axes in comparison to HPT.

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I ended up getting a electric water pump off the forums as well.  For some reason the damn motor gets to about 220-230 while sitting in stop and go traffic and I am not ok with that.  

 

Snapchat-1115604697_zpsl0lnduf5.jpg

 

I think this should do the trick and I don't believe I will have problems at the higher rpm either.  Time will tell.  

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BLOZ UP    19

LS motors run hot, IIRC. 220 is not uncommon. Meanwhile my VG33ET struggles to get to 190, even when sitting.

 

So you still want more power? I am tempted to get an LSx (or LQ4) and turbo/twinturbo it. I am trying to find out at what point the aluminum blocks don't like boost, but am finding lots of various opinions.

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Mine runs hot but it gets to a point where it will go above 230 if I don't get air moving through the front.  It just makes me feel uncomfortable.  

 

I was looking for more power but room to grow if I go boosted without the fear of bending rods or popping a ringland on a piston.  I'm thinking as long as a motor is forged you are safe up to 900 hp before you'd need 6 bolt style heads.  But I've seen aluminum blocks run to 1000+ so I wouldn't worry.  That power is only needed for AWD cars or strict drag racers.  I would prefer to race a car other than going straight.  

 

At this point it might be a little too much power but it will be fun.  Now just thinking about different tire compounds for traction and possibly changing gearing or tranny ratios.  

 

LS motors run hot, IIRC. 220 is not uncommon. Meanwhile my VG33ET struggles to get to 190, even when sitting.

 

So you still want more power? I am tempted to get an LSx (or LQ4) and turbo/twinturbo it. I am trying to find out at what point the aluminum blocks don't like boost, but am finding lots of various opinions.

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In preparation for getting HPTuners today, I spent some time over the weekend installing a bung for the WEGO III wideband AFR sensor I picked up.  It uses a Bosch LSU 4.2 oxygen sensor.    

 

WEGO3_Sensor1_zps9xcm4m7e.jpg

 

The sensor seems pretty nice after reading about it.  The device has the capability if connecting a tach signal and TPS or MAP sensor to datalog.  It has it's own software to run independently which supplies data with USB.  The greatest thing that made this a good option for me is it was cheap and came with a 0-5V output to connect to tuning software.  

 

20170416_185318_zpspaifvhdb.jpg

 

The brown wire (to tach signal) and the green wire (for MAP sensor) are not needed to connect to HPTuners.  The ground wire for the sensor and device are both grounded to HPTuners.  I just need to find a good spot to tap the red power wire to a switched power source.  I am thinking the easiest spot is the pink wire that powers the ECU but I will need to add an inline fuse....

 

I finally stopped being lazy and dropped the exhaust to add the flex pipes.  I found the sweet spot that allowed me to add the O2 bung about 10" downstream from the header collector.  This gave the most room for the sensor to be added.  

 

20170415_185514_zps0ra9zprv.jpg

 

Once I made the cuts, I bolted the mid pipe and mufflers back in to the car with the flex pipes roughly added in.  

 

Snapchat-1538138178_zpsdlf7cpai.jpg

 

This allowed me to get the exhaust tips EXACTLY in the same spot they were before.  I had Katie look from the back as I got the mid pipe centered to tack it in.  

 

20170417_133855_zpsrgm4ikhh.jpg

 

Everything went fairly smooth except for running out of welding gas!  I was able to pick that up Monday and finish the job last night.  Before throwing the sensor in the car, I had to do a free air calibration on the sensor to dial it in.  

 

Snapchat-1682219967_zps0fv8faea.jpg

 

20170417_142829_zpscj73ifjf.jpg

 

As you can see, this left a good amount of room for the sensor.

 

20170417_143302_zpswcl3zc8x.jpg

 

This worked out perfect and allowed me to zip tie it to the transmission harness up and out of the way.  I fed the wire through the driver side firewall and over the pedals through the center dash.  Sine my radio was removed and sold, I will be making a mounting plate probably there for the device.

 

I wasn't able to finish up the wiring yesterday, as I want to find the best routing for the output signal, usb, and the ground.  If used independently, the ground needs to be mounted to the chassis.  If used with HPTuners, it needs to be connected to the handheld.  So I need to find a good spot i can quickly remove.  Still looking for ideas.   <_<

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I am working with a guy to sell all of my stock A/C components from under the hood but also the evaporator under the dash.  Since I still need to figure out, what in the hell is wrong with my oil pressure gauge, I figure this is a good opportunity to remove the remainder of the stuff.  Weight reduction bro!  

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