Next I set the valley cover on the motor. This C6 windage tray is identical to the GTO one. There is a thread about the C6 pan that explains which parts are necessary for this swap. You have to tighten the tray nut near the pick up tube bend first. You cannot reach this when the tube is tightened down. I used some vaseline to lube up the O ring and it popped right in to place. The 10mm retaining bolt can be torqued to 106 in-lb. I installed the 13mm nuts and tightened those to 18 ft-lb. I'm not sure if there is a specific torque pattern but I did it in a criss-crossing manner starting from the middle. Make sure to use blue loctite on EVERYTHING.
I laid the pan down with a new gasket and used a rubber mallet to make sure the pan is at least flush with the back of the block. I've read issues with a pan that is seated beyond the block edge. You need to use RTV sealant on all 4 corners before setting the pan down. Tighten these to 18 ft-lb. The longer bolts in the back are torqued to 106 in-lb. After that, you are set!
I didn't use RTV atm, as after I get my mounts set and welded, the pan will be coming off to get painted.
The only thing left for the night was pulling all the fuel lines that run down the frame underneath. The lines were frustrating to pull near the back diff. The brake line was in the way, so I pinched both lines with a vice, wiggling them until they got weak and broke. This made it really easy to remove them.
Edited by Stock Car Mafia, 22 November 2015 - 07:49 PM.