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Anyone know of a running 3.35L LD28 (gas powered)?


inline6

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Sorry, typo'd the title - meant to say 3.35L.  

 

This Rebello video makes reference to a "tall deck" block/engine.  The stock V07 crankshaft per Dave is "with a shorter stroke" than the Brian Crower crankshaft... And the longer of the two rods in the video is about a 6 inch rod.  The block is likely an LD28.  

 

So, from the various comments in the video, it appears the engine being built was a 3.35L, with a 6" rod and a custom billet crankshaft with a stroke longer than 83 mm.  

 

So, who has one of these?

Edited by inline6
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From what I have read on here, they would have to be sleeved.  The max you can bore out an LD28 block to is something along the lines of 86/87mm.  While they are a smaller bore, that doesn't translate to having any additional meat on the cylinder walls.  

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The engine Les' built for the green hornet car utilized an N42 block.

 

Do these big bore LD blocks run wet sleeves? Going from 84.5mm to 89mm+ isn't trivial. 

 

That is my assumption based what I gather from searching the forums, yes.  

 

From what I have read on here, they would have to be sleeved.  The max you can bore out an LD28 block to is something along the lines of 86/87mm.  While they are a smaller bore, that doesn't translate to having any additional meat on the cylinder walls.  

 

The LD28 block has gaps for coolant to pass between all bores.  That bit of info, and comments about several sonic tests seem to make the case that the cyl. walls do not share the same OD as the N42 or F54 blocks.

Edited by inline6
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The LD blocks will bore to 86mm, but only just. They need sleeves to go any bigger.

 

There are wet-sleeve LD28 blocks out there. I don't think they are Nissan Factory blocks though, I think it was an aftermarket thing. I've seen two, and have one sitting in storage, ready to fit 89mm liners in.

 

The thought crossed my mind to braze the liners in, while stress-relieving the block as I've seen done in some Japanese builds...

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I just got the car street legal last month. Had the car for a week and had to put it away for winter. Still a work in progress but here are some video's I got of it. Sorry, none are from inside of the car... I will get that next year when the snow melts.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6nu8j-ES_4

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cX8HypgviK0

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6xe7gZPTSs

 

Dave offered 2 different cams for this engine. One where the peak powerband is between 4400 rpms to about 7400rpms, and one that is higher... i think it was about 5000rpms to 7800rpms... I chose the 4400rpms to 7400rpms because this car will be a street machine.

 

Dyno sheet for those that are interested.

Taka%20Dyno0001_zpscyekmcus.jpg

 

the rev limit is set at 8400rpms so it sings quite nicely. :)

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I just got the car street legal last month. Had the car for a week and had to put it away for winter. Still a work in progress but here are some video's I got of it. Sorry, none are from inside of the car... I will get that next year when the snow melts.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6nu8j-ES_4

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cX8HypgviK0

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6xe7gZPTSs

 

Dave offered 2 different cams for this engine. One where the peak powerband is between 4400 rpms to about 7400rpms, and one that is higher... i think it was about 5000rpms to 7800rpms... I chose the 4400rpms to 7400rpms because this car will be a street machine.

 

Awesome amount of work (and money) you've got in that car of yours - I looked through a bunch of your pictures.  Very nice!  What kind of transmission are you running?

 

With the standard deck height, I'm guessing you have about a 5.4 inch rod.  The bore on the dyno sheet is listed at 3.5" (89 mm).  So the stroke has to be 90 mm to get 3.359 L.  

 

Still looking for anyone out there with an LD28 "tall block" with similar bore and stroke but with a 6" rod...   

Edited by inline6
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The thought crossed my mind to braze the liners in, while stress-relieving the block as I've seen done in some Japanese builds...

 

Why braze and stress relieve?  How about just machining out the bores completely... and installing custom liners as is done in a lot of modern aluminum blocks?  But also keeping the closed deck?

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Awesome amount of work (and money) you've got in that car of yours - I looked through a bunch of your pictures.  Very nice!  What kind of transmission are you running?

 

With the standard deck height, I'm guessing you have about a 5.4 inch rod.  The bore on the dyno sheet is listed at 3.5" (89 mm).  So the stroke has to be 90 mm also to get 3.359 L.  

 

Still looking for anyone out there with an LD28 "tall block" with similar bore and stroke but with a 6" rod...   

I'm running a 280zx close ratio transmission at the moment. Not sure how long that will last, but I know I will need to upgrade eventually. In the meantime, i've been avoiding hard launches and smokey burnouts. lol.

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I spent time on the phone with the engine builder and he claimed a LD28 block as the basis for the TC24B. I haven't seen the engine in person to check.

The sign at the both claimed a Robello 3.3L with a dyno chart showing 376.87 HP and 281.82 TQ. Peak HP was at about 7700 RPM and fell off from there to 9k rpm. The guy I spoke with seemed a bit light on technical info and eventually just handed me a brochure.

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Why braze and stress relieve?  How about just machining out the bores completely... and installing custom liners as is done in a lot of modern aluminum blocks?  But also keeping the closed deck?

 

Because wet liners leak. Eventually...all wet liners leak.

 

Also removing the bore wall entirely weakens the block considerably, but brazing a sleeve back into the block would recoup the strength lost by machining the bores completely out. Also eliminates the liners leaking, so there's two birds, one stone.

 

You bore the LD28, you hit water just over the stock L28 bore size. If you're going to spend the time and money to prep an LD28 block for big displacement, then get the big displacement.

 

90mm bore, 90mm stroke, 11:1 compression with a flat top piston and a P90 head...3.4L.

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