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289 over-heating


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#1 RebekahsZ

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Posted 26 November 2015 - 10:06 AM

I needed a place to post this for the Ford guys across the universe. My buddy was having trouble with his 1966 Mustang overheating even after changing the thermostat. I googled the problem and only found lots of folks struggling with same issue without success. I'm posting this here since I'm not a member of the other Ford forums. Hopefully, Google and the other search engines will direct the Ford guys to this thread. So this is really an act of automotive civic duty.

After verifying a good thermostat by heating it in a pot of water on the stove with my wife's candy thermometer, and removing, inspecting and replacing the water pump (including removing the flat plate) to ensure that it was in perfect condition, and running water thru the radiator and refilling the system with new store-bought 50/50 antifreeze (the good stuff that Danica takes her clothes off for):

The problem was air in the intake manifold. In order to vent the air off, I filled the radiator then removed the heater hose that taps into the thermostat housing. Air came out, followed by water, and the level in the radiator went down. I topped up the radiator and started the car and let it run to a point that the thermostat SHOULD open, but it didn't. I removed the heater hose again and more air came out. Repeated the run-then-vent procedure 5 times before no air came out. Once I stopped getting air at the heater hose fitting, the thermostat opened and all is well. Topped off radiator and car has been good since.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#2 whatnow123

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Posted 26 November 2015 - 04:16 PM

You are a good friend for doing that as well as passing this on Keith!!!

 

Next time (if there is) just jack up the front of the car, that's what I had to do to my Z.


5.0 V8 5 speed! Yeah Baby!


#3 RebekahsZ

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Posted 28 November 2015 - 08:16 PM

How high? Had the front on my short jack stands on the highest extension setting.

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!


#4 axman61

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 10:53 AM

I've read where in place of a thermostat a disc with a hole about 5/8" is used.  This will allow the water to get up to temp with no risk of sticking or trapped air.  I have, however, never tried this.



#5 cre8d2go

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Posted 20 March 2016 - 09:23 AM

Drill an 1/8" hole in thermostat. No more air pockets

#6 RebekahsZ

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Posted 20 March 2016 - 06:41 PM

A thorough google search demonstrates that this does not always solve the problem.  Sage advice often offered, but does not always resolve the issue.


1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!





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