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Exposed's 1jz Build

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#21 Nelsonian

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 09:12 AM

model specific (corolla), I ended up with about 1/4" gap on either side of it and the height was bang on. I can take some pictures if you'd like or can try finding you a part number.


Both would be very much appreciated.
Nelsonian, San Diego, CA.

#22 Exposed

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 04:59 AM

@Nelsonian, MMRAD-AE86-83 is the model number and here is a gap, it's actually bigger than I remembered. About 3/4".

5ukaab.jpg



#23 softopz

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 08:24 AM

keep up the progress looking good. Those seats look way to wide for a s30 I dont know I could be wrong just looking at it from an image. I went with autometer phantom gauges I like them feel like stock would have been just as accurate. But then there was the tach input for ms2 edis with early 240z gauge, there are solutions but I just bit the bullet and changed all of them. Allot of members are doing the Defi Gauges I like those allot and I am sure you could put purple bulbs or any colour.



#24 Exposed

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 09:50 AM

@softopz, if worse comes to worse I'll only be out $50.00 for the seats. Thanks for the suggestion on the gauges they look good.



#25 Exposed

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Posted 04 March 2016 - 05:34 AM

finished most of my plumbing! More parts are slowly on the way, the Canadian dollar blows right now.

b6cx3k.jpg



#26 seattlejester

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Posted 08 March 2016 - 09:34 AM

Looks good!



#27 Drift Boss

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 08:03 PM

Yes!

#28 Drift Boss

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 08:06 PM

Just cut the coolant neck to make it go straight. Have someone tack weld a bead on it for a hose to clamp off good.

#29 Exposed

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 06:02 AM

@Drift Boss, I figured I'm going to have to do that. It's pretty hard to find something with a bend like that.

Does anyone have there battery relocated into the trunk? I was planning on tucking it to the side in the trunk but wasn't 100% set on that idea yet.

 

I ordered up an ignitor and its finally here, hoping to start my engine sometime soon. Fingers crossed :D  :D



#30 Acesss

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Posted 12 March 2016 - 05:50 PM

Where'd you get the intercooler from? I'm gonna have to buy one soon. 



#31 Exposed

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Posted 14 March 2016 - 08:21 AM

@Acesss, I picked up my IC locally.



#32 Exposed

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Posted 14 March 2016 - 08:23 AM

I know its not a Z but its my lead sled, just painted.

287drba.jpg



#33 Exposed

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Posted 01 April 2016 - 09:48 AM

I finally started wiring up the car and for anyone thinking of doing this for a first time plan it out prior. It's my first major wiring job and its a handful. Here is what I pulled out of the car from the previous owner.

I'm currently laying out the wiring on autocad, once I'm all finished up I'll post it up for some peer review hopefully someone adds there 2 cents.

 

2djrxaf.jpg



#34 seattlejester

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Posted 02 April 2016 - 08:16 AM

Holy crap, I hoped that is all he touched that looks like a fire waiting to happen



#35 Exposed

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Posted 02 April 2016 - 04:06 PM

It looks like there was a fire going to be a fire right away all the wires were nice and crispy. As of right now I have all my lights, radiator fans and horns wired up just need to connect everything into my combination switch.

Running into a bit of a problem I'm trying to just get the engine to start up before i start wiring anything up any further. Can anyone tell me what exactly I'm missing here to get it to run.

1) I currently have +B1, +B and BATT from plug C86 hooked up to constant 12v power

2) the fuel pump is powered and grounded

3) the starter has a wire running to the positive battery terminal

4) battery is grounded to the frame

5) on plug C86 I connect IGSW to the positive terminal on the battery

 

I guess I figured once I connected IGSW to a 12v power supply the engine would try to turn over but the only thing I hear is the starter clicking and fuel pump running. I'll try connecting MRel (plug C85) and IGSW together and connecting it to the positive battery terminal. I'm not to sure if this matters or not but I don't have the ignitor bolted down to anything. Should I run the thicker cables on my alternator directly to my positive battery terminal?


Edited by Exposed, 02 April 2016 - 05:33 PM.


#36 Drift Boss

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Posted 03 April 2016 - 12:32 PM

...yeah...remove the whole harness, wire it from scratch.

#37 Geno750

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Posted 03 April 2016 - 02:26 PM

...yeah...remove the whole harness, wire it from scratch.


This x1000 and check eBay for wire. I got 1500ft of tfetzel wire for $40 from there.

#38 Exposed

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Posted 25 April 2016 - 05:18 AM

The other day I had some time between work and responsibilities and I managed to get her running. Not the best quality video but its good enough. View My Video

I'm going to need to tidy up the wiring in the engine bay and properly hook up everything to the ignition switch and the rest of the car. Will hopefully have some speed hut gauges ordered this week as well.



#39 Exposed

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Posted 10 June 2016 - 07:42 AM

I've been slowly doing some research on wiring and everything is in Japanese... was curious if any guru's on here could give me there two cents on my wiring diagram and if I'm missing anything crucial or if they see something that just won't work. PM me and I can send over my diagram. 



#40 seattlejester

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Posted 10 June 2016 - 02:04 PM

Video won't play for me so I can't view it. 

 

This is going to be something much easier to see drawn out. The bare minimum can be determined using a megasquirt diagram, 2jz one would be fairly close as well.







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