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Exposed's 1jz Build


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Found a cd009 transmission locally for relatively cheap so I snatched it up and order up a collin's adapter and a short shifter. Transmission didn't come with a shifter assembly so I'll need to take some measurements and fab something up or buy one already made. Really liking the look of the Hoke shifter relocation mount though. I'll toss some pictures of everything up shortly.

 

For the guys running a catch can did you run lines from your valve cover to the can or were bungs welded in and tossed some filters on? Are there benefits of just running filters?

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I will be using a weld on setup when the time comes for my 2jz and not sure if I will have my go to fab guy help with this or just get one of the kits available.

 

From Power House Racing:

http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/engine/p-10027.aspx?&cid=10062

 

"Anyone building a high horsepower/high boost 2JZGTE engine has to consider the effects of crankcase pressure at these levels. With the standard PCV valve (only 7mm) the engine simply is not able to remove pressure fast enough from the crankcase while under boost. The PHR Race Engine Breather Kit solves this problem, by increasing the venting area by over 200%. By removing crankcase pressure, you increase engine efficiency and therefore increase horsepower.

Anyone who has ever put together 12AN lines and fittings can tell you how costly something like this is to put together. This is not merely an “oil catch can” but rather a complete engine breathing system for big boost/big HP engines. Stock or mildly modified engines can also benefit from this setup, but only slightly. You must remove the OEM charcoal canister in order to install the breather tank on the passenger side of the engine bay"

And the Titan Motorsports offerings:

"An oil catch can collects the oil, moisture, and blow-by gas that causes carbon and sludge build-up in the intake system and engine, and helps to keep it clean even under the hardest driving conditions. This oil catch tank is also an excellent engine dress up item as well"

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  • 1 month later...
Started looking for a standard transmission and ended up deciding to go with a CD009, found this one locally for reasonably cheap so I picked it up. I was jumping back and forth between a maverick or collins adapter and settled for the collins because of reviews, both adapters were about the same price. Quality of the kit seems to be really good and easy to install, all the bolt holes match up nicely there is ever a paper reminding you to purchase one longer bolt. I ended up grabbing the bolt from a local shop. 

 

I removed my a/c and p/s and started looking for a new belt. For anyone doing something like this on a 1jz you might find it easier to swap out the pulley while searching for a new belt. The pulley is from a Honda S2000 I purchased a Dayco 89051 pulley, Bando 6PK 990B and a timing belt Bando TB147B, the parts cost me a total of approximately $40.00 off of rockauto.

 

Currently just fabbing up a transmission mount hoping to be all done it by the weekend.

 

Wiring harness is almost all installed just need to make the connections inside the car, will toss up some more pictures when I get a chance.

 

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@Joa, is the install scaring you off? I havent driven the car yet as works been to busy to finish up the wiring but from talking to the 350z guys locally I havent heard any complaints about the cd009 transmission. What type of power are you hoping to put out?

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@Joa, is the install scaring you off? I havent driven the car yet as works been to busy to finish up the wiring but from talking to the 350z guys locally I havent heard any complaints about the cd009 transmission. What type of power are you hoping to put out?

No i am still working on the swap. Just as far the gear box goes, Ive done quiet a bit of reading on different options and the Solstice Ar5 transmission (Newer R154) is what i plan on. 

 

I am only going for a minor bpu swap, i'd be happy with 350-450whp.

 

Ive been watching your thread tho keep up the good work my man, what clutch/flywheel set up did you go with?

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it's one thing after another. Now that everything is pretty much wired up I tried to start up the car with the key..it'll run for half a second then it dies out, hoping its as simple as cleaning my iacv. If cleaning the iacv doesn't work I'll look into the ecu or the tps, fingers crossed.

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  • 3 weeks later...

found what the issue was, figured I'd try repairing it before buying a new ecu.

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Finally got the engine going after the repair and its currently running fine for now, just need to fart around to get a good idle.

Edited by Exposed
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  • 4 weeks later...

havent had much time to post anything lately because of work and all but i seem to only run into prob'ems with this build. Ecu was repaired and i firgured everything was good to go. well i was wrong I cant get the engine to rev past 2200rpm. i went to pull some codes and came up with code 41 which is for the throttle position sensor signal, open or short in tps signal, ecu.

i tested an ecu off of a local soarer and same problem so i ruled it out, went to the local parts source and grabbed a new tps sensor plugged it in and still the same. The wiring harness is brand new and from wiring specialities so i ruled that out too. inspected my coil pacls and noticed some of them had cracks in the so im going to purchase some new coils tomorrow morning. assuming its not the coils does anyone else have suggestions?

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havent had much time to post anything lately because of work and all but i seem to only run into prob'ems with this build. Ecu was repaired and i firgured everything was good to go. well i was wrong I cant get the engine to rev past 2200rpm. i went to pull some codes and came up with code 41 which is for the throttle position sensor signal, open or short in tps signal, ecu.

i tested an ecu off of a local soarer and same problem so i ruled it out, went to the local parts source and grabbed a new tps sensor plugged it in and still the same. The wiring harness is brand new and from wiring specialities so i ruled that out too. inspected my coil pacls and noticed some of them had cracks in the so im going to purchase some new coils tomorrow morning. assuming its not the coils does anyone else have suggestions?

 

I scrapped the toyota Ecu and went with Microtech...best money i ever spent!!! Started up right away!

 

The cracked coil packs will cause shuddering and knocking ...you should stil be able to rev it. Does it struggle? Idle smooth, revs smooth to 2200?  have you checked the voltage signal going to the TPS? one wire should be voltage, one reference and the other signal

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  • 3 months later...

@Greeko, when the tps sensor is connected its a choppy idle, that goes for the revs too. will check my voltage signal going to the tps and post it.

 

Got a couple goodies right after Christmas, got most of it installed. I started all new wiring in the car a little while ago and at first I thought it was a nightmare. After a bit of research and a lot of questions I think I'm just about finished it. Will post some more pictures later on. For any "first timers" thinking of completely rewiring the car Id recommend you plan a lot before jumping in like I did.

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