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The new Orleans blue dog build


Kevkev5162

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Hey all, new here, posted a few times and and decided it was time to start my own thread. I know a little, know I need to learn a lot and am open to suggestions and input and am sure I'm going to have questions along the way. The story on the blue dog is that she was acquired in trade for a cpl weeks of nights and weekends working on one of the po's other cars. She was a far from finished project that had been sitting for 4 years. She came with a lot of uninstalled parts including the aero body kit, new in box which was fortunate because I had to put the bumpers from blue dog on the other 280z I was working on in trade. I temp painted and installed the body kit, rear hatch glass, head lights door handles blinkers tail lights, seats and all the other bits and pieces remove for paint. Installed the bigger master cylinder, drilled slotted rotors and Toyota 4x4 calipers up front and 240sx w drilled rotors in back, still need e brake cable. I bought a windshield but an overzealous neighbor who was helping managed to break it. I have since found another one for 20$.

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The efi system was a mess, missing pieces, stuck injectors, butt splices and wiring gremlins everywhere along with the typical corrosion on terminals, after a week of tinkering it started, ran super rich, in somehow I later realized dumped at least a quart of gas into the oil. Things were hooked up incorrectly and after a while I made the decision to start new and do the Holley 4bbl conversion. I started ordering parts. I've bought a Bob sharp racing Holley intake, Holley 390 cfm carb, intake gasket, adjustable fpr w gauge and a distribution block to add circuits. The carb fuel pump will be ordered tmrw along with the throttle kit and air cleaner and a few relays to set up a fuel pump circuit and electric fan circuit. Here's a few pics of the parts I have so far. My first question is about the ports on the bsr intake. Facing the intake so that the writing on the intake is right side up, the port currently blocked off on the left should have an 1/8" Barb for distributor vaccum advance?, on the right the larger one is brake booster?, below the plenum there's a chamber with a port on each side, I think it's the water jacket like the Clifford intake advertises? Never seen on up close so I'm not sure tho. And one side is blocked off, so if its supposed to heat the mixture to better atomize the fuel by passing water from radiator through it then why would one side be blocked off? Not blocked, but a port with a cap on it? Fgoing to start stripping efi stuff and try to get intake installed this weekend if gasket comes in the mail so any ideas would be great. I'll try to take some pics as I go, sometimes get caught up in the work and just want to get it done. Thanks

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Edited by Kevkev5162
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I was able to find an OEM one with one small chip for 20$ in Mississippi, I have it now and am going to try to install it this weekend. Thanks tho, where ya at in Nola? The po drilled the rims on it now from 4x4.25 to 4x4.5 w a cordless drill, they do not center and not all of the lug nuts go on. The same person I got the glass from has a set of 14" appliance mesh wheels I can pick up for 125$ just need to make it to Mississippi which will prob take a cpl weeks with my current work schedule. There's still a list of parts I'm trying to round up so if you have anything locally it could work out and save shipping time. I have a budget to get it done, not a shoestring one but not shooting for a show car either

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Today's project after a 10 hr work day: drain oil, run a cpl quarts through to try to flush out gasoline. I borrowed a compression tester and did a check. The car is not running so the test will come back 10-15psi lower than operating temp from what I've read, also traces of gas in oil I think may make it lower as well. My results came back as follows: cyl 1: 155, cyl2:140, cyl3:140, cyl4:150 cyl 5:130 cyl6:150. Any input? The block has been repainted so I'm assuming the engines been out at some point for repair/overhaul. I think these numbers are good enough to work with considering non prime test circumstances.the outside temp tonite was 55 degrees as well, getting cold down here!

Edited by Kevkev5162
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Those comp numbers look ok to me. As for that drilled out holes crap, my car came like that also, don't know why people think that's a good idea. Diving right into the stock efi, full of vac tubes is a daunting task. It took me a long time to really figure out everything so I don't blame you for the carb swap. 

 

The chassis looks to be decent shape so that's a good sign. Good luck. 

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I was fortunate to have the paint and body work already done, I'm far from set up to paint a car, I just did a pretty good backyard paint job on my 92 Honda vt1100 shadow but a motorcycle is a far cry from the setup needed to make a car come out good. I've often wondered what world someone must be living in to ever consider taking a unibit to lug nuts holes by hand and expect it to work. Intake gasket came today so tmrw I'll start stripping the old setup, no one has any ideas on how to set up vaccum ports to bsr Holley intake? There's only a few ports, does anyone know what must be hooked up to vaccum for car to run right?

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  I removed my motor with a clifford intake and the same carb from my Z about 6 months ago.  At the rear of the intake It has the large hose barb, that's for the hose w/ check-valve running to the brake booster (make sure you install the check valve the correct direction).   Then there is a small vacuum line going to the vacuum advance on the distributor.  If you don't have a small port at the front of the intake, there is a vacuum port in the base of the carb that you may be able to utilize (if you don't utilize it, then it needs to be capped).  Thats all you really need (actually some people run without the vacuum advance).

 

 There is also a vacuum hose that runs through the firewall into the dash for one of the AC/heat flaps or something, you probably should hook that up.  Not sure how you can hook this up if you don't have another vacuum port then maybe tee off one of the other lines.  My hose barb for the brake booster has a tee integrated into the fitting.  That's where mine is connected.

 

  I know nothing about the chamber under the intake, mine didn't have that.  If it is for coolant you may want to think about eventually utilizing it.  With the heat down here it doesn't take long to start overheating your fuel.  Especially with headers.  You will see what I'm talking about nest summer.  Maybe you could run the coolant through a transmission cooler with the fan mounted on it before it goes into the intake chamber???. good luck

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Yesterday was a long day but still managed to motivate myself to put a couple hrs in. The intake and all efi components under the hood along with some wiring has been removed, everything came apart easily , not all the nuts and bolts were the same size so I can tell it was reassembled by someone not paying attention to detail, I now have a tub full of efi parts, if anyone has need for stock efi stuff let me know, dropping resistors, and, ecu are all good, injectors were shot, a few were solid varnish on the nozzles. Also because I usually do my summers in Maine to avoid the heat and this isn't a daily driver I decided to

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Small barb on the intake should be for vaccum advance. You can use either that or the barb off the carb for the advance. Whatever one you dont use though needs to be capped. Honestly if it were me I'd plug the carb vacuum ports and just use the manifold. Anyway. Back one is yes for booster and the middle is for coolant. One is in the other is out of course. Dosent matter how you have it set but whatever one is in runs from the thermostat housing and the other wraps around the back to where the heater hoses plug in. Any other pipes or hoses and just gut out. Just need the hose from thermostat to intake then intake to passenger side of block. Just curious...hope you got a returnless style FPR? Just helps with hooking up fuel system since the holley just has the one intake flow barb. Having it deadhead to the carb and not having a return somehow had my carb always gushing with fuel. I tried just running a T fitting between the regulator and carb to help and that still didnt work so Im just going to get the return style regulator and try to clean up the mess of hoses. Hope some of this info helps! Got any more questions ask! My cartech turbo system goes over the same deals as all the holley conversion intakes. Ill help with what I can.

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thanks, im a little confused, you said you hope i got returnless style fpr?the one i ordered says its a return style. I ordered a holley red pump preset at 7psi iirc, i was going to run main fuel line from holley to filter under hood, then to return style fpr which would divert anything over adjustable psi through the return line back to tank,am I wrong in the operation and terms for fpr? I was also looking at location of stock pump and dont like the way the line runs up through frame then back down to pump and was planning on mounting pump closer to tank and as low as possible to aid gravity feed. i thought dead head setup was one line through non bypass or returnless fpr then to carb, hope i didnt get the wrong one. fpr also has gauge port which i fugured would be easier than adding on after fpr. I removed the stock pump and mounting assembly this weekend and cleaned the intake/exhaust mating surface with my dremel and a wire brush attachment. waiting on parts to come in efore i can do much else. thanks for the water jacket setup, i figured thats how it worked but wasnt sure where it was plumbed to on the block,

Edited by Kevkev5162
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  • 3 weeks later...

Soooo, alot has gotten done but it seems like for every thing i get done a new problem pops up. Everything is assembled at this point, for now. while installing the exhaust manifold i managed to crack it and afterwards realized its a round port manifold on a p90 head, i bought one from a member here and i have it but havent put it on yet because i want to avoid unnecessary assembly/ reassembly. after researching the manifold issue i found out i have a p90 head on a block with stock dished pistons (bought a scope and looked through the plug hole) dropping my cr and I already have bought the intake and holley setup so im not going to switch to a turbo build this far along and i dont want to shave the p90 so that leaves the option of finding a n42 head to match the exhaust manifold i have. is there a stock cam that would work better than one that comes in the n42? the car starts right up, idles ok and runs decent but theres definitely alot of room for improvement in the power its producing, anyway, just a quick update, rims and tires that are going to be ran for a while are on, the carb still needs to be tuned, thinking about buying a gunson color tune, any advice on them? seems like it should be adequate to get it close enough until I bring it to a shop once everythings installed completely for tuning. i guess the next step is to find someone wanting to do a turbo build that will trade me a n42 w a cam for my p90

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