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71 240z rb20det fully fun slow project named candy build

rb20det swap 240z 1971 rusty

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#21 bestlowrida

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 09:11 PM

Water manages to get under the coil cover plate and makes the plugs look bucknasty. Change them out and enjoy some fresh plug action. Couple tips for the forward facing shit I've figured out. The brake booster line is an obscure m16x2.0 threaded port. I managed to pick up a couple that convert it into a nipple, if you need one let me know and I can drop you one in the mail. The underside ports should be 1/8npt, just need a couple 1/8npt to nipple adapters for using the fpr/bov/whatever other vac source shit. There is one bigger one i haven't gauged yet but I think it'll be 1/4npt

Good stuff bro thanks



#22 bestlowrida

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Posted 27 July 2016 - 09:18 PM

So I got around to paint so here we go.

I scuffed the thin paint with 220 git

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Hit it with some primer

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The with rustoleom 2 coats of white gloss paint . The laid some lace fabric over it.

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The shot some mint green paint to match the body.

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Removed the lace and shot it with three coats of gloss clear.

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Got this idea from my wife. My first time doing lace I guess it came out ok.

Hope it last a while I know rattle can fades faster then gun p.aint

 



#23 Wizzurp

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Posted 28 July 2016 - 04:52 PM

That's fresh!



#24 bestlowrida

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Posted 30 July 2016 - 05:25 PM

That's fresh!

Thanks bro I tried lol.



#25 bestlowrida

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Posted 30 July 2016 - 05:42 PM

So I found time to wrench some on the z. I finally got the mounts though although I don't see much difference but I'll go with it!

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I installed my isr fpr adapter it was pretty easy just pop off and pop on.

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Now finally on to the oil pan made by pat1!

Turned my motor upside down, removed the 30 10mm bolts, and popped off the pan.

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Scraped off the old gasket and installed the rear oil pickup.

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I popped out the brass fitting for the rear dipstick tube relocation but burred up the tube lol I cant get it out! Ill try again later but I think ill just buy a new one there are only 20 bucks.

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I put the black rtv gasket maker around the pan and around the holes. I added some random drill bits in two spots so the pan can drop right in the correct location.

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I just popped it on and used the fsm to tighten them in proper sequence

Torqured them down to 20 lb. Another successful pat1 oil pan install, went on like butter!

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I flipped the motor back around to admire the hard work.

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Almost down, all I need is steering rack bushings, new dipstick tube, and I'm thinking about the front facing intake top plenum. Then install the 3/8 gas feed like then I'm dropping her in.



#26 bestlowrida

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Posted 14 August 2016 - 01:45 PM

So I finally got the dipstick tube. It is originally for the 240sx ka24 so it was a few inches too long. I measured the size of the stock one and used a hacksaw to cut it to size. Greased the bottom up and tap it in the rear tube hole. Worked out great. I guess ill cap off the other one off lol.

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#27 bestlowrida

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Posted 16 August 2016 - 09:00 PM

Ok so I got around to doing the front steering bushings since it will be 92 the whole month it seems like. I just rather do it now since the motor is out. I popped out the 4 12mm bolts and off comes the 2 top brackets and thy are packed up with 45 years worth of dirt!!!

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Driver side yuck! Also there was some weird exhaust bracket used for some kind of reinforcement.

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The passenger side doesn't look any better. Same exhaust mount used too. What would you expect from this old girl.

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So this is the driver side mount next to the new prothane p/u bushing, whats left of it haha

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This the passenger side, yucky old bushing RIP. I have mostly spent more time cleaning this crossmember, then paining it because it was hideous under all that grime. It took about 2 hours.

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I just painted it white just to give it a cleaner look. Nothing too flashy since it will not be in plain site. This was the fun part, I had some amsoil synthetic grease and applied it to both bushings since they came with no grease. I squeezed the bushing on as best as I could which was tough since its a tight spot. I picked up 4 longer m8x1.25 60mm long screws so I can use them because the stock bolts were too small. I popped them in and used my 3/8 gun with a 13mm socket and the bracket clamped down and pressed them perfectly in place like a charm. I just hope the bolts aren't too long to interfere the fitment of the motor haha

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Time to collect parts to plumb the motor in. The last thing is the front facing top portion of the intake manifold then I can drop the motor in finally!

 



#28 bestlowrida

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Posted 21 November 2016 - 10:30 PM

So worked finally slowed down and found some time to work in the cold on the z. I found some loose wires that probably got pulled out from handling the motor the last 6 months or so. The fuel injector wire, some nearby connector from the harness, and the iacv connector got boogered up. Hard to see in the pic.

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So I went ahead and pulled out my solder and electrical tape and she is as good as new!

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After that I pulled out my dremel and finally started to "slot" the engine mounts and this was the end results.

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I tested it with my mount on both sides and they appear to be able to maneuver up and down freely so that is that.

I saw how ugly my brake booster is and it was time to paint it. Here are some pics.

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I used a wire wheel brush on the drill and it helped a little bit.

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I then hit it with some primer, white rustoleum, rustoleum white pearl mist that I always wanted to try and last some clear coat.

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Not sure how long that will last next to that hot turbo but we will see. I just wanted to do something unique for fun and affordable. I'm pretty sure the motor is ready to be dropped in the next few weeks I cannot wait.



#29 bestlowrida

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Posted 06 December 2016 - 01:26 PM

Nothing really up lately I installed the brake booster though.

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#30 bestlowrida

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Posted 2 weeks ago

So I finally get around to putting the motor in candy but of course I go to unscrew the exhaust manifold to install the engine leveler, the bolt was broken flush with the head. I got to unscrew the front bolt and it broke flush too. So time to take the turbo and manifold off to extract the broken studs!

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I got to drill the front one and extract it, things went smooth.

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Of course the last one was like undrillable.

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I spent close to 20 hours and 20 drill bits. I finally picked up my dremel with a grinding stone bit and it worked out. So when I ave time I will load up on smaller dremel grinding bits and go to town on the stud and post more in a few days.

 



#31 bestlowrida

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Posted A week ago

So my prayers have been answered and I was able to get the last broken stud out! After about 3 broken black and decker extractors and 4 broken dewalt titanium drill bits along with 20 plus hours of using 3 drills and 2 drill bits the harbor freight bits and extractors came out on top lol. So now I can put the motor and trans in the car and deal with those issues while I wait for the 12 new studs and turbo gaskets in the mail. This was one of the biggest set backs I had with this car yet (aside from the l24 trans came with no fluid and blowing up hence the swap). More to come soon yall!

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#32 bestlowrida

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Posted 6 days ago

So I finally got around to working on candy. Time to start to putting the engine together and drop it in. First to get it off the stand. This sucks because the ground is uneven and there is grass and dirt so its just sitting on whatever plywood we have laying around the yard.

Hooked up to the hoist.

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So there was really no safe place to hook up the engine leveler to so I just used tow straps I had laying around.

Cleaned up and replaced the stock flywheel it still has left in it so why not.

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Bought a clutch alignment tool front autozone. It's for a ka24de it fit perfectly. Installed the clutch that came with it.

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Installed the stock pressure plate.

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So it was time to re install the transmission. This was a pain in the butt. I had to use a jack to hold the tail end up. I wrestled with the bell housing till it fit close enough to use the long screws to get it to move flush with the engine. I tighten the screws in a cross pattern little by little then it eventually was all buttoned up. Then installed the starter which was easy. Everything went smooth except these brackets don't fit because the rear sump pan was in the way.

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I guess no one uses these with this swap? Oh well I'm sure it will be ok. So here she is all ready to go, the last thing was to remove the shifter.

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Sorry if the pics keep rotating sideways, on my computer they are normal then when uploaded they go randomly rotating. So the next day, my wife and I started the install. I jacked the motor sky high in the air to clear the radiator support, that part was easy. The pain part was tilting the motor and lowering it little by little. My dad came to help in the nick of time as a helping hand. So all in all it took us 40 mins to get it mounted up in the z.

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That is how she sits today and as soon the mounts went in the holes we all were pooped and just called it a day. Next is to start putting together all the components to get her running. This was a huge step though so thanks for stopping by and more to come!

 



#33 DotsunZ

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Posted 2 days ago

Does your drive shaft work or are you going to get a custom one?






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