TrikeZ Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 Hello, as I wrote in the title I have a 1973 240z swapped with an L26(done by PO). Last night on my drive back home I noticed that it would the engine would stumble at times almost like a misfire. And lights dimmed/flickered a bit when idling at a stop. So, I busted out the multimeter and with the car ON, engine running, battery tested 16.6 volts, same with the alternator terminal. Car OFF, battery tested 14.8 volts. So, it is overcharging. I suspect the external voltage regulator went out. As I am likely needing to replace it, I wanted to know if there was an upgrade kit for an internally regulated hirgher amp output alternator such as the one for a 70-72 Z which is on TheZStore? Any help or ideas will be appreciated. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 What they offer is probably a 280zx alternator. The ZX should be a direct swap with 60amps internally regulated. You will have to jumper the external voltage reg. I don't know all the details. When I rewired I just left it out completely and run the charge wire from the alternator to the starter post, +12 Bat to the starter post, called it good. Oh and the lamp wire which the 240 won't have since it has an ammeter. I use a 280z voltmeter that has the charge light in it. The third wire is a constant or switched 12v to tickle the alternator. I have mine to a switched 12v so if something goes awry in there I don't start pumping 12v to ground while I'm away. Since he isn't doing it on a 240, confirm that his wires from the voltage reg match yours. There might be some differences. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 (edited) Hello, as I wrote in the title I have a 1973 240z swapped with an L26(done by PO). Last night on my drive back home I noticed that it would the engine would stumble at times almost like a misfire. And lights dimmed/flickered a bit when idling at a stop. So, I busted out the multimeter and with the car ON, engine running, battery tested 16.6 volts, same with the alternator terminal. Car OFF, battery tested 14.8 volts. So, it is overcharging. I suspect the external voltage regulator went out. As I am likely needing to replace it, I wanted to know if there was an upgrade kit for an internally regulated hirgher amp output alternator such as the one for a 70-72 Z which is on TheZStore? Any help or ideas will be appreciated. Thank you I think you need to try a different Multimeter or change the batteries in that meter. Low batteries in a Multimeter throw off readings. Double check it with a different meter just to be sure. Lights sure a heck aren't going to go dim at a 16.6 charging voltage and a battery that supposedly measures 14.8 volts. High battery voltage will not " usually " cause an engine stumble either. In fact the coils will put out an even hotter spark. Only exception is if coil is old and weak and extra voltage heats up coil too much. That is a possibility, although rare. Also, if it was over charging that much, the battery case would be getting very hot and you would smell sulfuric acid fumes in the air from the Battery boiling off. Did you notice any of that? Edited February 9, 2016 by Chickenman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 (edited) Regarding alternators. Easiest way is a a straight lug and play swap to an externally regulated alternator from a 1977 280Z. 60 Amp. RA has AC Delco reman units on for $47.79. Part # 3341567 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1001887&cc=1209248&jsn=602 Pickup an new external regulator at the same time. The trick external voltage regulator to get is a solid state model. No more mechanical relays. The solid state ones are much more accurate and reliable than the old relay style. A friend of mine has been using a Solid State voltage regulator on his 510 for over 10 years with no issues. The VR's with a short case are usually solid state. RA has an Airtex/Wells unit on for $26.79 Part # 1V1243. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=936854&cc=1209248&jsn=611&jsn=611&jsn=611 Of course if you want to go to an Internal regulated model, you can use a 1978 280Z alternator or a 1979 or later 280ZX alternator. You will have to modify the external voltage regulator wiring though. Lots of info available on that as previously noted. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html I'm currently installing an 80Amp Mitsubishi alternator from a 1985 Maxima onto my 1976 280Z. Internal regulator, 80 amps, single groove pulley and bolts on to stock mounting. Have to change alternator plug and rewire system to use internal regulator. No biggy. Edited February 9, 2016 by Chickenman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 I suspect the external voltage regulator went out. As I am likely needing to replace it, I wanted to know if there was an upgrade kit for an internally regulated hirgher amp output alternator such as the one for a 70-72 Z which is on TheZStore? Any help or ideas will be appreciated. Thank you 1973 has some wiring differences, I think, That's why they only spec the kit to 1972. One option for you would be to figure out what's wrong first. The manual has some tests you can run, Engine Electrical, after you confirm that your meter works correctly. If the VR is working, the replacement alternators will all be 60 amp anyway, so no "upgrade" with a ZX alternator. Everything is 60 amp, unless you convert to a different model IR alternator. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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