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JDM 1g-gte in my 72 240z


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#1 72_240zTT

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Posted 08 March 2016 - 07:07 PM

As the title states, Im putting a 1ggte in my s30. I have not found ANY information on this swap yet, im sure it has been done. But im not sure if it has been documented. Either way, im in the process of it now. 

 

The reason i decided to go with the 1ggte is because, well basically, i found it for $250 with everything included(minus alternator). Another reason i decided on it was because quite alot of people seem to dislike this motor due to it being underpowered and not much torque. The biggest reason for that, is because it was put into a 3,500 soarer/supra. So if it had enough power to haul around that tank, i figure it will be quite alot better in a 2000lb s30. 

 

If anybody has any links or helpful tips, that would be great. The only thing that i can think of is to continue searching for alot of the 7mgte and 7mge swap threads, since they are from the same car. 

 

So far, the l24 is out and the 1ggte is almost in. It fits the engine bay almost perfectly with the mounts and everything lining up as they should. It would be perfect if the oil pan was 1" farther back. So my first step is to make a motor mount that will raise the engine about 2" so the oil pan will clear the steering rack. I have not been able to take a look at the trans yet, all that i have been able to see so far is that it sits perfectly in the tunnel. I am not sure yet where the tranny mounts are in relation to the s30 mounts. I will probably get to that in a couple of days. For the motor mounts though, i am taking the s30 mounts, burning out the rubber and welding a 1/4" steel plate to the top and drilling a hole directly in the middle. Once that is finished, the engine will be mounted. 

As of now, the only big issue that i am running into is the hood. The engine will stick up past the hood line about 2" so i am not quite sure what i am going to do about that yet. If anybody has any idea's then i would love to hear. I only had 2 thoughts so far, 1) In NC it is legal to drive without a hood. haha or 2) Cut my existing hood so that the engine will poke through the hood. But i dont really want to do that. I thought of making a cowl hood, but the problem is that the engine sticks up in the FRONT of the car, so a cowl on the front would just look strange. 
 

Anyways, I will try to keep everybody posted on the swap and take as many pictures as i can. But if anybody has any idea's or tips for this swap, or even a link to another then feel free to let me know. 

 

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Edited by RB26powered74zcar, 11 March 2016 - 01:13 AM.


#2 Exposed

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 05:36 AM

its nice to see something new. have fun with the build and keep posting.



#3 dexter72

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 05:58 AM

Looks really cool, is this engine based off the late 80s, early 90s US 7M Engine ??.  Just thinking about what engine parts match up to it...

 

Observation from the last pic you posted, Try setting the engine back farther since you need an inch to clear the oil pan. I also have seen people modify the front of the oil pan as long as the sump doesn't sit right against it. They Cut the area out of the pan that needs the space, then have it re-welded.



#4 72_240zTT

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 08:13 AM

Im not sure if it is based from the 7M. Im assuming the mounts are the same because they did come from the same car.(just different countries) And im not sure if i am able to move the motor back, mainly because of the steering arm. I will have to look again and post a pic of it, but im not sire if i can. and thank you guys, i am definately excited to see how this turns out.

#5 72_240zTT

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 08:17 AM

Also, i was debating on cutting the pan but im just nervous that I still wont have the clearance. More than likely, ill just cut the hood and make some kind of cowl. I dont care about it looking stock, I definately prefer it standing out from the crowd(why else buy an s30 anyways.haha)

#6 Drift Boss

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 11:07 AM

I used cxracing mounts, modified the sub frame to set back further. Mine sets about 1.5in away from firewall. (Might even be closer then that.) No modified oil pan other then a light trim on the two front bolt holes.

#7 dexter72

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 12:08 PM

Was asking ifts based of the 7m because maybe you could swap a rear sump 7M pan on that 1g. Just a thought.



#8 72_240zTT

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 02:52 PM

I used cxracing mounts, modified the sub frame to set back further. Mine sets about 1.5in away from firewall. (Might even be closer then that.) No modified oil pan other then a light trim on the two front bolt holes.

Did you swap a 1ggte into your Z? or something similar? I am very interested and could def use the help. For the cxracing mounts, what vehicle did you get them for?



#9 72_240zTT

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 02:55 PM

Was asking ifts based of the 7m because maybe you could swap a rear sump 7M pan on that 1g. Just a thought.

If i can get the engine to sit back farther without getting in the way of the steering arm then my hood clearance problems will be solve, along with the oil pump. And the 1ggte has a rear sump on it, so im not sure if that would help. Thank you though, i appreciate it. (:

 

Ill be getting back to working on it a bit tomorrow and will keep everyone posted on the progress. One other thing that i did think of, is the fuse box. The 1g didnt come with it, and im assuming that it should. So that will probably make the wiring a little more difficult as well. >_<



#10 dexter72

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 04:23 PM

Looks like the 1G is the little brother of the 7M and 1J, 2J.  That is truly a unique engine you have..

 

Did the engine come with most of the wiring harness and the Ecu ??...

 

You may have to find a wiring diagram for the 240z and the 1G and then splice in the wires accordingly, Welcome to Customizing. :)   Hybrid

You may decide to upgrade the fuse box and get rid of the glass fuses, if you haven't done that already.

 

On my Nat-2j swap, I have push in fuses for all the Megasquirt Engine wiring, Glass fuses for the lights..



#11 72_240zTT

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Posted 09 March 2016 - 04:33 PM

Yeah, it came with all the wiring and ecu. Im just not sure if it is actually supposed to have an engine fuse box or not. From alot of the pics and videos ive seen, i dont see a fusebox. And all of the wiring diagrams are in japanese. D:

#12 72_240zTT

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 02:57 PM

Update: I shouldnt have burned the rubber out of the 240z motor mounts. I was thinking of doing the mounts a different way, but i can just use the OEM mounts from the motor AND the frame with very slight modification. Same goes for the transmission. So for now, i will just weld the OEM rubber mounts back together, at least for now until i get another set. But the fitment now, is almost perfect. It doesnt sit too far foward, and it doesnt sit on the firewall either. Everything is going pretty well at the moment, i just have to wait for my friend to bring my welder back, so unfortunately i think i am done for today. But with me just discovering that i can use all of the s30 mounts, this swap just got a whole lot easier. Worst case scenario, ill have to make a spacer for the motor mounts so they all sit flush, and also with the pass side mount, i will have to cut the motor mount on the block a little so it will clear the oem oil return from the turbos. Either that, or i can just convert it to rubber hose so i can move it out of the way and continue to keep the mounts original so it is more of a "bolt in" swap.

 

 

Drivers side motor mount. I will have to weld the old plate back in since the rubber is now gone, but it should work with no problem. 

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Pass side mount. I dont have the OEM mount bolted to the motor yet because the oil drain tube is in the way. I have 1 of 2 options. 1) Cut current motor mount from block so oil drain fits. or 2) Cut oil drain tube and replace with rubber oil return hose. I will most likely go with option 2 so it doesnt cause the motor mount to lose its structural integrity. 

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Firewall clearance with motor pretty close to where it will sit permanantly. Nothing is currently in the way. The oil pan and steering rod are both 100% clear of the engine.

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Trans mount from underneath.

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Trans mount on drivers side. I will have to make an adapter plate and drill 3 holes. Bolt 1 to the OEM hole on the body, and the 2 other holes will bolt to the new trans mount. Same on both sides.

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This is almost exactly where the 1ggte will sit in the engine bay when the mounts are connected.

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And this is the hood sitting flush, so my previous concerns are gone. It will fit with nothing whatsoever in the way.

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Edited by 72_240zTT, 10 March 2016 - 03:08 PM.


#13 72_240zTT

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 03:10 PM

Also, from now on ill try to fix the pics being uploaded sideways. My pc is just too slow to take all the previous pics down, flip them, then reupload. Sorry for the head tilt. hahaha



#14 dexter72

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 05:39 PM

Lol I was like damn im leaning to the side Big Time. Lol

 

If the pan clears the rack i think your in business.



#15 RB26powered74zcar

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 08:02 PM

I will fix them all for you later on tonight...

.

 

 

 

 

 

RB26dettZ pics

 

th_April_2012006.jpg ®


#16 72_240zTT

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 08:09 PM

Yep, the pan clears fine and i got my welder back, so i will be working on all of the mounts tomorrow. I also got the pass side mount in. i went ahead and cut the oem mount from of the l24 block. So hopefully tomorrow, it will be mounted. Then i can work on the difficult part....wiring. haha. And fixing the pics would be amazing, i was going to do it tomorrow if i had some free time. Honestly, with how simple this swap is i can see it being done more frequently if all goes well. We'll see what happens once it starts driving amd gets dyno'd and some track time. It does feel good to do something nobody has done before. :D...well, at least documented. haha

#17 72_240zTT

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Posted 16 March 2016 - 05:34 PM

All right, I was finally able to get my motor mounted in today. The welds arent pretty at all, but they definitely get the job done well enough. Tomorrow I will hopefully be getting the transmission adapter plates made. Once that is done, then I begin with the wiring. Anyways, here are some more pics of the progress and the final engine placement. It is still a tiny bit too close to the front of the car, so i will have to put a small cowl or scoop in the hood, which i really dont mind. But Im just happy the engine is in, and that it really wasnt that difficult at all to mount.

 

Drivers side motor mount 

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Pass side mount

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Final engine placement

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Edited by 72_240zTT, 16 March 2016 - 05:38 PM.


#18 72_240zTT

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Posted 16 March 2016 - 05:40 PM

Okay, this time i made sure to rotate the pictures before i uploaded them(even though they were fine on my PC)...But even since i rotated them, they are still coming out sideways. How do i fix this when i upload?



#19 72_240zTT

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Posted 17 March 2016 - 03:39 PM

All right, now the transmission is finally mounted as well. It turns out that i didnt need any adapter plates anyways. I used the transmission mount off of my 4speed 240z transmission. All i had to do was unbolt the toyota trans mount, and put the Z trans mount in its place and it lined up perfectly. Next step is wiring, it will take me a little while to get that done, especially without having a fuse box. Im going to have to figure out what im going to do for that as well. But on the bright side, if anybody does attempt this conversion again. All you need is all of your OEM mounts from your s30 and it is a direct bolt in. If i didnt burn the rubber out of my mounts, then i would not have had to weld plates on there. *sigh*



#20 dexter72

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Posted 17 March 2016 - 04:46 PM

Looks good so far, the hood may still fit  fine. Remember that the z hoods are raised in the middle and then slant all the way to each side. Take a pic from the center of either fender looking straight across to the other fender.

 

You can use a maxi fuse upgrade for the engine bay instead of the fuse link box.

 

You can make up your own fuse box with push in fuses, Auto parts stores sell those boxes for like $10 bucks.

 

If you have the engine and ecu wiring diagram, that's the last thing you need.






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