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clocker

Frankenterior

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Final part of the "Going Keyless" project complete. 

Almost...

popper.jpg

 

External lock cylinder was replaced with a Bulgin momentary switch which operates a popper solenoid to unlock the car.

The battery has been fitted with a wireless cutoff switch, so a blip of the keyfob and the whole car is dead (except for the headunit which has a bypass so it doesn't lose settings all the time). Approach the locked car, hit the fob, car goes live- including the external buttons, which can now unlock the door.

There is no ignition barrel either, so no keys required at all anymore.

 

Why is it "almost" finished, you ask?

Well, we realized that a failure of the battery cutoff means there's no way to get into the car (assuming it was locked) and that would be kinda dire, so we need a secret/hidden, external manual rear hatch release as a last chance option. We already have an interior cable release for the hatch and I'd like to maintain it's functionality as well, so it could get tricky, we'll see.

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I heard about an electrical solution to (this on a '50s custom car).  They hid a 9V battery connector in the car's grille, wired in parallel to the driver's door solenoid. 

 

As long as the bad guys didn't know what it was for..... and you can get hands on a 9V battery, it was enough to open the door with a dead battery - or even no battery.

 

Still it would be a good idea to have a mechanical solution.

 

 


Why is it "almost" finished, you ask?

Well, we realized that a failure of the battery cutoff means there's no way to get into the car (assuming it was locked) and that would be kinda dire, so we need a secret/hidden, external manual rear hatch release as a last chance option. We already have an interior cable release for the hatch and I'd like to maintain it's functionality as well, so it could get tricky, we'll see.

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That's an interesting/clever solution, so thanks, Trevor.

I had kinda fixated on my original idea and this got me thinking more creatively, so even if I don't use the concept, at least it made me think about it differently.

 

I've spent time lately looking for seats to replace the Prelude units that Sigfrid just doesn't like.

Hoping to set up some meets on Sat. to look at some Miata black cloth chairs and maybe some black leather S2000 seats.

I've examined Miata parts before and they appear easy to mount- and most importantly, they'll fit  (and I prefer cloth to leather) so they are my clear favorite but we can consider the Honda if S. insists.

 

S. has been splitting commuting duties between the Z and his RX8. The 8 has snow tires, so it gets used when weather demands but the Z runs a few times a week at least. Mechanically, she's doing great, no real issues to address other than the increasing desire for a LSD. His only actionable complaint recently is the rear defrost grid either not working or (more likely) just broken and heating unevenly. Other than that, she's pretty adept at mimicking a "real" car. Mileage has been hovering in the 24mpg range, which I think is pretty good.

 

Of most surprise to me is how well the Plastidip is aging.

Originally planned as a stopgap before real paint, we didn't expect it to hold up as well as it has.

Pretty sure Sigfrid would still prefer a normal, gloss finish but I'm totally enamored with the dip and would use it again without reservation.

 

It's weird to realize that Ratchet is no longer a "project" as much as she's a car we're tinkering with.

No more shelves full of parts to install and problems to solve...we've climbed the mountain and the summit is kinda...boring.

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Well, "the summit" may be boring but at least we can sit in comfort now...

Miata%20seat1.jpg

 

Miata seats and man, we got a screamin deal...$50 for the pair.

The black cloth is a much nicer and fits the interior design well and the slightly smaller size means we have full slider travel and better headroom.

 

The seat mount points in our 280 are 13" apart, the mount points on the seat are 13 3/8" apart and frankly, it would have been easier if the difference had been greater but about 4 hours of fettling got them installed. Sadly it was late when we finished and our all black interior photographs poorly in the dark, so final pics will have to wait.

 

Initial impressions are positive but a few commuting days will actually tell the tale.

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miataseat3.jpg

 

miataseat2.jpg

 

Sigfrid spent some time yesterday changing the rake of the seatbase with spacers, we both felt the front was a little high and the rear too low.

We couldn't go lower up front, so he added spacers in the back...and here's a top tip (useful even with stock seats) to make your life easier-

Replace the rear mounting bolts with studs. Instead of fumbling around under the seat trying to fish bolts through the carpet, studs allow you to just drop the seat onto studs, install the front bolts (which are far more accessible) then run nuts down the studs and viola!-, Bob's your uncle.

Granted, seats are not a commonly removed part but when you gotta, this little hardware mod comes in handy.

 

Sadly, it snowed overnight, so the Z stayed home (his RX8 has new Blizzaks) and we still don't know how much-if at all- better these Miata chairs will be.

Edited by clocker

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