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Brake booster??


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Consider increasing the leverage of the pedal assembly and delete the booster altogether? With Wilwoods, I barely need any pedal pressure at all. I have to really concentrate not to lock em up when racing. Pads make a big difference. Race pads make a lotta dust and are noisy (screeeeeech coming to a stop). Street pads don't make as much dust, last a long time, are quieter, but don't stop as well. Race pads stop better when really hot (as in not on the first lap), street pads stop better when cold, as in a panic stop.

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I don't use a booster at all, and I don't miss it. With a stock 7/8" master cylinder my brake system stops really well with the following components:

 

Wilwood superlite front calipers (4 1.75" Pistons)

11.5 x 1.25 directional vane Coleman racing front rotors

Outlaw 2800 rear calipers (4 1.25" Pistons)

10.5 x 0.81" rear rotors

Wilwood proportioning valve

Hawk HP-plus pads

 

The car stops really well without much pedal effort. I am considering different pads because the HP-Plus are really dusty and don,t have a lot of initial bite. I have been looking into options. Any suggestions?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Consider increasing the leverage of the pedal assembly and delete the booster altogether? With Wilwoods, I barely need any pedal pressure at all. I have to really concentrate not to lock em up when racing. Pads make a big difference. Race pads make a lotta dust and are noisy (screeeeeech coming to a stop). Street pads don't make as much dust, last a long time, are quieter, but don't stop as well. Race pads stop better when really hot (as in not on the first lap), street pads stop better when cold, as in a panic stop.

Nice! What pedal assembly did u go with?

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