I just got my draw through turbo back from rebuild new motor this happened less than a minute after start up the burning oil forced me to shut it off. The turbo was pre oiled the drain is clear and perfect low crank case pressure as well. The turbo failed from my last engine coming from together and debris. This time it has a in line filter wih no restricter its a journal bearing rotomaster (Garrett T04 ). Has any one ran in to this I want to make sure I've checked every thing before returning it to the rebuilder
New turbo Fail
Posted 30 April 2016 - 08:10 PM
What are we looking at here, a flooded exhaust turbine and failed CHRA Bearings?
It looks like the impeller blades ate something.
#1 cause for new turbo fails is not replacing the line as it's all coked up. I don't know that I'd put a filter in that line as that restriction can starve the bearings... what type of "filter" was it that was installed?
It is possible to overwhelm the seals if you oversupply the turbo with oil.
I mean, exactly what is the failure mode here?
Posted 30 April 2016 - 08:34 PM
the failure is that its pushing oil out both ends of the turbo the feed line is also new
the in line filter has no restriction I ran this setup on my old motor with no issue the car made 65 psi oil pressure on startup as always
Posted 30 April 2016 - 08:41 PM
The center section was replaced when it was rebuilt the compressor wheel has ate something in a previous life but was there before the rebuild I asked about replacing the wheel the re builder said it was fine
Posted 30 April 2016 - 09:01 PM
I should also mention that budget cuts have forced me to be creative with my class 2 hoard this is a stock 240z bottom with a p90 head and notched block for valve clearance. with a 280zx cam and a 280zx turbo oil pump I know it wont make as much power as a 280 turbo but its what I have and Iam sure it will be fun until the next motor. That beaning said this is very well put together hobo motor most of the time this sort of thing starts with 2 cubes of Key stone this was a clean build
Posted 01 May 2016 - 07:26 AM
Is the oil drain line clear of any debri ??. Is the drain line routed without any kinks You can try putting a restrictor in the oil supply line to the turbo...
Posted 01 May 2016 - 07:32 AM
I think a restrictor is the answer here but what size? the current is .120
Posted 01 May 2016 - 07:36 AM
the next question is has this damaged the turbo it has carbon seal
Posted 01 May 2016 - 03:46 PM
65 psi at idle?
Posted 01 May 2016 - 03:57 PM
I had oil leak past the compressor and turbine seals with my Turbonetics BB turbo. The drain is about 4" higher than the return in the pan, and the line slopes gently down to it at an even rate throughout the length. The slack in the line eventually settled a certain way with maybe 1/2" of droop. This caused oil to backup and leak past the compressor and turbine seals.
I had to cut the line 1" shorter to eliminate slack, and ensure it stayed that way with zip ties.
I still get blue smoke if I am going down this one long sloping hill... Oh well. Next version of my exhaust manifolds will have to fix that.
It is not recommended to confirm proper installation by driving into walls or other barriers as this could cause personal injury or damage to the vehicle.
Posted 01 May 2016 - 06:58 PM
it was at 1200 to 2000 rpm it ran for less than 60 seconds and I shut it off 65psi was the high number
Posted 02 May 2016 - 07:25 AM
I talked to the turbo shop today they said there is a chance the carbon seal is ok and recommended a .060 restrictor I am going to plum a temporary pressure gauge to the turbo to make sure
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