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Shock_Strauss

My 78 280z 2JZnat Build Thread

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That's my set up. Takes out a solid 4-5in which makes it much closer to where it would be comfortable to use the shifter.

 

Thanks for the pictures. Honestly that would be perfect if it was moved up further forward. I believe that's when you start having problems due to the linkage. You don't have it installed in the car yet right?

 

This would be perfect: https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/s640x640/e15/12728443_1032323470174624_271092311_n.jpg?ig_cache_key=MTE4NTEzMzc2MzQ1ODAyNDkzMQ%3D%3D.2.l

 

I wonder how they did it? Possibly shortened the rod the linkage attaches too? When I have some free time, I'm going to pull the transmission and take a look what kind of modifications I can do.

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makaofox    2

From the pic the 350z trans is 39in-40in long stock. After cutting the shaft its at 31in. 

Accorrding to the transmission dimension thread 
Nissan Type A 4 Speed

Weight: 70 lbs.
Length (bellhousing to end of tailshaft housing): 31"
Shifter position (bellhousing to center pivot): 31"

Nissan Type B 4 Speed

Weight: 72 lbs.
Length (bellhousing to end of tailshaft housing): 31"
Shifter position (bellhousing to center pivot): 29"

G-Force T5 5 speed

Weight: 101 lbs.
Length (bellhousing to end of tailshaft housing): 31.5"
Shifter position (bellhousing to center pivot): 29" - aftermarket Long shifter 

So in theory the 5sp 280z trans is only 1-2in off. So it should still fit without cutting. At the same time also depends on how far back the motor sits. But thats up to how its mounted. It seems like it will fit no issues. Soon ill be bolting it up to the motor and finding out within a week or two.

post-13572-0-09297100-1463959168_thumb.jpg

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So in theory the 5sp 280z trans is only 1-2in off. So it should still fit without cutting. At the same time also depends on how far back the motor sits. But thats up to how its mounted. It seems like it will fit no issues. Soon ill be bolting it up to the motor and finding out within a week or two.

 

Interesting, I think it's probably due to how far back my engine is then. Curious to see how yours comes out.

 

 

 

 

Wasn't able to do much this last weekend due to the rain and probably won't have any major updates in the next two weeks.

 

Started working on attaching the body harness to the bulkhead connector and noticed two wires for the headlights were severely corroded. This might have been one of the reasons I had issues with my headlights. I went ahead and disassembled each of the pins from there housings. Once that was done I submerged them in a vinegar salt mixture for about 15 minutes or so and wire brushed what remained. I then soaked them in water and baking soda to neutralize the vinegar/salt. This procedure has actually been working really well for me.

 

8rUatJLh.jpg

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Greeko    1

Interesting, I think it's probably due to how far back my engine is then. Curious to see how yours comes out.

 

 

 

 

Wasn't able to do much this last weekend due to the rain and probably won't have any major updates in the next two weeks.

 

Started working on attaching the body harness to the bulkhead connector and noticed two wires for the headlights were severely corroded. This might have been one of the reasons I had issues with my headlights. I went ahead and disassembled each of the pins from there housings. Once that was done I submerged them in a vinegar salt mixture for about 15 minutes or so and wire brushed what remained. I then soaked them in water and baking soda to neutralize the vinegar/salt. This procedure has actually been working really well for me.

 

8rUatJLh.jpg

That works really well for cleaning but make sure you put some sealer over the metal... Once you have stripped the coatings then they will corrode super quick.. If you have metal contact lubricant or even WD-40 (its a miracle spray) will work well to keep things nice, clean and operating well from my own experiences.

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That works really well for cleaning but make sure you put some sealer over the metal... Once you have stripped the coatings then they will corrode super quick.. If you have metal contact lubricant or even WD-40 (its a miracle spray) will work well to keep things nice, clean and operating well from my own experiences.

 

Did not know this, thanks for the heads up!

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Been very busy with finishing up school/work and forgot to update my build thread. I've been slowly finishing up everything. I ended up ditching Microsquirt and went with Megasquirt Pro. This required me to redo the engine harness again. The shifter I ended up using is from gktech which still required me to cut the tunnel unfortunately. I'll also have to modify the center console as well. The rear end was removed, cleaned, painted, and fitted with urethane bushings. I also changed from the stock bottom differential mount to one that attaches from the top. I'm getting it tuned in the next week or two as I plan to go to Cruisin' Ocean City later this month with it.

 

 
 
 
 
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15x10 295 60r 15

 

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Ahh dope. Any links on that, I may have to consider it. The ls1 coil swap is very pricey now and a pain at this point.

Are you using the stock ecu? I'm using Megasquirt pro so it was very easy to get timing from the distributor while using the lq9 coils for ignition. 

 

I remember seeing a kit that was being sold for around $600 on ebay but you can do it significantly less. You need 6x lq9 coils, 6x IS 300 coil boots with springs, and 6x gm coil connectors. If you have a gte, you can buy coil brackets from many different sites. The GE on the other hand I believe only has one site that sells a bracket. I'm just going to fabricate one myself.

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Geno750    0
Posted (edited)

CX Racing also makes a bracket as well.

 

I'm looking to do this pretty soon with a VVTi GE though.

Didn't know CX racing made those. I went the IGN-1A route, and got a bracket that replaces the coil pack cover.

 

gvMAyYS.jpg

Edited by Geno750

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Quick question, i saw on a couple threads where yall are cutting the shock towers and rewelding, is that necessary to fit the 2jz? also ill be doing the cd009 trans with the 2j and the cx mounts, i dont mind cutting the interior for the shifter but how far back will it be shifter be?  My interior is gutted 

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Quick question, i saw on a couple threads where yall are cutting the shock towers and rewelding, is that necessary to fit the 2jz? also ill be doing the cd009 trans with the 2j and the cx mounts, i dont mind cutting the interior for the shifter but how far back will it be shifter be?  My interior is gutted 

 

The only cutting I had to do was the original transmission mount and where the shifter comes up through. I tried finding a solution for the shifter to come up through the stock location but failed. I ended up getting a gktech shifter,

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ok thanks bro. I was worried id have to send my car back to the body shop for cut and welding. 


So far i got my CX mounts, Engine, harness, ecu and rear sump pan. Total spent $610. Hopefully i can remain under budget. About the only good thing about living in a border city is the cheap competitive prices. 

Got any more updates or tips. 

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Posted (edited)

The design isn't very good. 

 

I ended up drastically changing mine to get it to sit where I wanted it.

 

Someone did say that the way they are designed is to weld the two pieces together once you have the correct location. More or less made for a very customizable mockup. Granted people put slots in the suspension pickups and that is held by one bolt and apparently that never moves. 

Edited by seattlejester

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Zetsaz    4

Does tech2 not offer a way to buy just the engine mounts? Their kit includes engine mounts, crossmember, trans mounts, driveshaft, and shifter extension, plus an install DVD. I can't imaging you're actually that far ahead when all is said and done by going with the CX kit and piecing everything together separately. 

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I think the cx mount kit is like 500 (engine and trans), custom drive shaft for 300, shifter relocator about 250. You are still ahead there by a good deal other then the sub par mounting.

 

The tech2 kit from what I can tell is only sold in packages. There kit is a whole cradle so I can't imagine it would be cheaper even if you took out the accessories.

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