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My 78 280z 2JZnat Build Thread


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#21 Shock_Strauss

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Posted 20 May 2016 - 06:44 PM

Could you take a picture of it? I'd like to know how far I need to get mine shortened lol. Collions adapters offers a shortening service for the shifter bracket I think its like 110$?

Also I was wondering what you guys who are running the 370z/350z transmissions are doing for clutch master cylinders?

 

I'm going to be running a Wilwood 7/8 master. Type this into Google, "Clutch Master Swap / Upgrade 280z". Should be the first result.



#22 dexter72

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Posted 21 May 2016 - 07:48 AM

Just do your research... 2jz with a 350z trans..  The Sc300 is a longer chasis but the same principles apply.

 

I remember seeing pictures of someone who made a shifter rod that ran rearward. Mounted the shifter to the body..



#23 makaofox

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Posted 21 May 2016 - 08:20 AM

Have you considered Austin Hoke's setup? He swapped a VQ35 in his z and works on LS1 swaps. His work is incredible. I have his short shifter relocation kit for the 350z trans its beautifully made, all you have to do is cut the shaft and shorten it which took me 5min. 

http://hokeperforman...fter-relocation



#24 Shock_Strauss

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Posted 21 May 2016 - 07:45 PM



Just do your research... 2jz with a 350z trans..  The Sc300 is a longer chasis but the same principles apply.

 

I remember seeing pictures of someone who made a shifter rod that ran rearward. Mounted the shifter to the body..

 

Trust me I have, there's plenty I've seen around the net.

 

Here's a few notable one's I've saved.

 

Club Lexus

http://www.mitsustyl...m/Shifter_1.jpg

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=ikMB8Ib1FgY

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dexter72, was this what you were talking about?

 

http://i.imgur.com/x05pfR5.jpg

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=6GXd1gtxcCI

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=VQUEbNfvMZQ

 

Supra forums

 

http://i282.photobuc...zpsvcivktxi.jpg

 

Welding web

 

http://i130.photobuc...10/IMG00098.jpg

 

 

Hybrid Z VQ Swap (Similar Issue)

 

http://forums.hybrid...lmost-complete/

 

http://vq240z.weebly...6600838.jpg?698    (My trans looks like its further back)

 

http://i218.photobuc...G_2150Large.jpg (The issue I'm trying to prevent)

 

 

Options for sale-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Serial nine's offering

 

https://i.ytimg.com/...xresdefault.jpg

 

Hoke Performance ( I was actually considering this one before I installed everything)

 

http://hokeperforman...fter-relocation

 

http://static1.squar...52/?format=750w (Same issue of cutting)

 

Z Fever

 

http://www.ebay.com/...=p2047675.l2557

 

LOJ Conversions

 

http://loj-conversio...l-transmissions

 

 

There's a few others as well.

 

 

Sending off your shifter to get it shortened.

 

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What it looks like with the shiftboot and console in place.

 

bb1o7Peh.jpg

 

8nhY1Bah.jpg

 

Terrible rendition of the location I'm looking for.

 

OygqKmBh.jpg


Edited by Shock_Strauss, 21 May 2016 - 08:47 PM.


#25 Shock_Strauss

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Posted 21 May 2016 - 07:48 PM

Have you considered Austin Hoke's setup? He swapped a VQ35 in his z and works on LS1 swaps. His work is incredible. I have his short shifter relocation kit for the 350z trans its beautifully made, all you have to do is cut the shaft and shorten it which took me 5min. 

http://hokeperforman...fter-relocation

 

Thanks for the suggestion, this was actually one of the relocation kits I was going to buy before I started the swap.



#26 Geno750

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Posted 22 May 2016 - 03:21 AM

To shorten things that much you'll likely need a new linkage. I'll take a picture of the piece I'm talking about later today when I'm home to illustrate.

#27 makaofox

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Posted 22 May 2016 - 08:26 AM

That's my set up. Takes out a solid 4-5in which makes it much closer to where it would be comfortable to use the shifter.

Attached Files



#28 Shock_Strauss

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Posted 22 May 2016 - 11:26 AM

That's my set up. Takes out a solid 4-5in which makes it much closer to where it would be comfortable to use the shifter.

 

Thanks for the pictures. Honestly that would be perfect if it was moved up further forward. I believe that's when you start having problems due to the linkage. You don't have it installed in the car yet right?

 

This would be perfect: https://scontent.cdn...DAyNDkzMQ==.2.l

 

I wonder how they did it? Possibly shortened the rod the linkage attaches too? When I have some free time, I'm going to pull the transmission and take a look what kind of modifications I can do.



#29 Geno750

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Posted 22 May 2016 - 03:20 PM

They had to of shortened the rod the linkage attaches to. The pictures above are the same as my setup.

#30 makaofox

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Posted 22 May 2016 - 03:23 PM

From the pic the 350z trans is 39in-40in long stock. After cutting the shaft its at 31in. 

Accorrding to the transmission dimension thread 
Nissan Type A 4 Speed

Weight: 70 lbs.
Length (bellhousing to end of tailshaft housing): 31"
Shifter position (bellhousing to center pivot): 31"

Nissan Type B 4 Speed

Weight: 72 lbs.
Length (bellhousing to end of tailshaft housing): 31"
Shifter position (bellhousing to center pivot): 29"

G-Force T5 5 speed

Weight: 101 lbs.
Length (bellhousing to end of tailshaft housing): 31.5"
Shifter position (bellhousing to center pivot): 29" - aftermarket Long shifter 

So in theory the 5sp 280z trans is only 1-2in off. So it should still fit without cutting. At the same time also depends on how far back the motor sits. But thats up to how its mounted. It seems like it will fit no issues. Soon ill be bolting it up to the motor and finding out within a week or two.

Attached Files



#31 Shock_Strauss

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Posted 25 May 2016 - 06:16 AM

So in theory the 5sp 280z trans is only 1-2in off. So it should still fit without cutting. At the same time also depends on how far back the motor sits. But thats up to how its mounted. It seems like it will fit no issues. Soon ill be bolting it up to the motor and finding out within a week or two.

 

Interesting, I think it's probably due to how far back my engine is then. Curious to see how yours comes out.

 

 

 

 

Wasn't able to do much this last weekend due to the rain and probably won't have any major updates in the next two weeks.

 

Started working on attaching the body harness to the bulkhead connector and noticed two wires for the headlights were severely corroded. This might have been one of the reasons I had issues with my headlights. I went ahead and disassembled each of the pins from there housings. Once that was done I submerged them in a vinegar salt mixture for about 15 minutes or so and wire brushed what remained. I then soaked them in water and baking soda to neutralize the vinegar/salt. This procedure has actually been working really well for me.

 

8rUatJLh.jpg



#32 Greeko

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Posted 06 June 2016 - 10:09 AM

Interesting, I think it's probably due to how far back my engine is then. Curious to see how yours comes out.

 

 

 

 

Wasn't able to do much this last weekend due to the rain and probably won't have any major updates in the next two weeks.

 

Started working on attaching the body harness to the bulkhead connector and noticed two wires for the headlights were severely corroded. This might have been one of the reasons I had issues with my headlights. I went ahead and disassembled each of the pins from there housings. Once that was done I submerged them in a vinegar salt mixture for about 15 minutes or so and wire brushed what remained. I then soaked them in water and baking soda to neutralize the vinegar/salt. This procedure has actually been working really well for me.

 

8rUatJLh.jpg

That works really well for cleaning but make sure you put some sealer over the metal... Once you have stripped the coatings then they will corrode super quick.. If you have metal contact lubricant or even WD-40 (its a miracle spray) will work well to keep things nice, clean and operating well from my own experiences.



#33 Shock_Strauss

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Posted 07 June 2016 - 08:52 AM

That works really well for cleaning but make sure you put some sealer over the metal... Once you have stripped the coatings then they will corrode super quick.. If you have metal contact lubricant or even WD-40 (its a miracle spray) will work well to keep things nice, clean and operating well from my own experiences.

 

Did not know this, thanks for the heads up!



#34 Shock_Strauss

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Posted 3 weeks ago

Been very busy with finishing up school/work and forgot to update my build thread. I've been slowly finishing up everything. I ended up ditching Microsquirt and went with Megasquirt Pro. This required me to redo the engine harness again. The shifter I ended up using is from gktech which still required me to cut the tunnel unfortunately. I'll also have to modify the center console as well. The rear end was removed, cleaned, painted, and fitted with urethane bushings. I also changed from the stock bottom differential mount to one that attaches from the top. I'm getting it tuned in the next week or two as I plan to go to Cruisin' Ocean City later this month with it.

 

 
 
 
 
lfZIqiel.jpg
 
45f99rll.jpg
 
efxNBSbl.jpg
 
Z1LIpm0l.jpg
 
D7DcHE1l.jpg
 

15x10 295 60r 15

 



#35 makaofox

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Posted 3 weeks ago

Not sure if i missed it but what did you do for the coil packs? Did you use TT stuff or Lexus stuff? I kept the dizzy which is a pain in the butt. The swap is looking good! 



#36 Shock_Strauss

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Posted 3 weeks ago

Not sure if i missed it but what did you do for the coil packs? Did you use TT stuff or Lexus stuff? I kept the dizzy which is a pain in the butt. The swap is looking good! 

 

Thanks, I'm using chevy truck coils with the built in igniter. 



#37 makaofox

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Posted 3 weeks ago

Ahh dope. Any links on that, I may have to consider it. The ls1 coil swap is very pricey now and a pain at this point.



#38 Shock_Strauss

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Posted 2 weeks ago

Ahh dope. Any links on that, I may have to consider it. The ls1 coil swap is very pricey now and a pain at this point.

Are you using the stock ecu? I'm using Megasquirt pro so it was very easy to get timing from the distributor while using the lq9 coils for ignition. 

 

I remember seeing a kit that was being sold for around $600 on ebay but you can do it significantly less. You need 6x lq9 coils, 6x IS 300 coil boots with springs, and 6x gm coil connectors. If you have a gte, you can buy coil brackets from many different sites. The GE on the other hand I believe only has one site that sells a bracket. I'm just going to fabricate one myself.



#39 Geno750

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Posted 2 weeks ago

I think the kit you're thinking of is the one by mojo.

http://www.mojoperf.com

#40 ihiryu

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Posted 2 weeks ago

CX Racing also makes a bracket as well.

 

I'm looking to do this pretty soon with a VVTi GE though.  


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