Jump to content
HybridZ

327 v8 240z. Swap or build?


Recommended Posts

Lol, sorry, thought you were OP. Yeah, working and on HybridZ is not a good combo. Yeah, I spent way more that $3000 on everything. I agree with most that you could get a lot of power with what OP already has plus the $3k in the bank. I also believe that Fuel Injected chevy V8's are the way to go. I hate messing with carbs and timing and other nonsense. 

 

RebekahsZ has a good point too though, project cars always take 20x longer than you want. 

 

 

So, my advice. keep what you have and love it and learn it and go faster after as you learn the car. Or put some money into tuning what you have. Or sell off the engine and drivetrain and raise your budget and get a LS, or sell the car and buy one that is already what you want.  Lots of options OP but still an awesome car as it sits. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 What else do I need?]

Read the Broken Kitty list and Donovan's For Sale post.  Or just go for it.  You sound like you know what to do and have the parts waiting.  Get to it.  You've got people saying it's a piece of cake, should be easy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You don't see why the costs are high or you don't know what the costs are?  A few clicks and calculations and I'm already at your budget.

 

About $500 - 1000 for the mounts, depending on what you get -

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ESK-TM-LS-240Z-KIT

http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/order-sheet.htm

 

Over $3000 just for the T56, apparently - Everybody wants one.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/ls1-t56-transmission

https://www.google.com/#q=t56+transmission&tbm=shop 

 

Plus engine, exhaust system, modifications to it to make it fit the 240Z.

Plus nickel and dime parts.

 

These internet forums, in general, are full of people who just remember one number, like the cost of the engine, and ignore the rest.  Often from something they did ten years ago.  Make a quick list and show how you can get what you want for $3000.  Then you'll see and you'll have something tangible to talk about.  You haven't even got in to differential and axles yet, to handle the power.  Let alone body strengthening for the 240Z.

 

Put a short list together, with dollar figures.  It will be illuminating.  Many people spend $5000 just getting their stock 240Z or 280Z running right, over a year or two.  The small costs will eat up a budget.[/i have the diff all beefed up with axels, I can get a t56 for 1500, engine for 6-800, accessories, pretty cheap, 400 for the engine and tranny mounts, 200 for a driveshaft (max). What else do I need?][/also, currently, the 240z has a great electric fuel pump along with a great fuel system. I dont know how a swap like this with an iron block 5.3 would come out to 7k? Maybe if youre buying everything brand new]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't read your posts.  You must be on a phone.  

 

You're stuck in the "I just can't believe it" loop.  If you want to know, you'll keep track of your costs as you actually do it, or put a plan together first.  If you don't, you'll probably get stuck halfway because you're out of money, or don't want to keep spending until it's done.  All I'm saying is that putting a detailed plan together will tell you what you're going to have to spend.  The fact the fuel pump is an important part of your budget, shows that you don't really have any idea of what it's gonging to take to get it done.  Plus the "what else do I need" questions.   No offense.  And spending the money is just part of it, you have to assemble the pieces or have it done.

 

Regardless, you'll still have fun even if you do run out of money.  Everybody has their "close enough" decision point.  You might be close enough to go for it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There was a thread that was something like "how much did your swap cost"   

 

Many pages of examples of how much people spend vs thought it would cost vs told their spouse it cost. Can any one post that or help me find it. Entertaining read. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But going off the top of my head.

 

Engine, LS probably $2k or more for engine, wiring, ECU, and harness prepped for swap. I spent more than that.

Transmission, T-56 or nothing IMO $2500 and I will consider that shipped, trying to imagine lowest cost here.

JCI mounts and driveshaft, IDK, $800 or so

Fuel pump, $100

Headers $300

Exhaust, $800

Shifter, pedals, clutch, flywheel, master cylinder some other hard parts. $1000

Radiator, $300

hoses $100

tools- god knows. 

radiator fans, $100

fuel lines and filters, $200

 

random stuff $$$$

Things that you didn't know needed replaced until you see it. $$$

 

 

Just stuff adds up. 

 

A cheap engine is cheap for a reason also. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But going off the top of my head.

 

Engine, LS probably $2k or more for engine, wiring, ECU, and harness prepped for swap. I spent more than that.

Transmission, T-56 or nothing IMO $2500 and I will consider that shipped, trying to imagine lowest cost here.

JCI mounts and driveshaft, IDK, $800 or so

Fuel pump, $100

Headers $300

Exhaust, $800

Shifter, pedals, clutch, flywheel, master cylinder some other hard parts. $1000

Radiator, $300

hoses $100

tools- god knows. 

radiator fans, $100

fuel lines and filters, $200

 

random stuff $$$$

Things that you didn't know needed replaced until you see it. $$$

 

 

Just stuff adds up. 

 

A cheap engine is cheap for a reason also.

[/this is starting to sound like a no go for me guys

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stick with what you have and enjoy it. You can't enjoy it if it is taken apart for the next 2-10 years.

 Wise words!  But often the itch to modify is irresistible.  Then comes the question of efficiency: what is the most efficient scheme, where one obtains maximum enjoyment, for minimum outlay (time, money, stress, frustration,...)?

 

The Small Block (or Big Block) Chevy is hardly dead.  Even today, in 2016, it probably still dominates the aftermarket. But the point isn't to debate relative merits of different engine-families.  Rather, I'd opine that if a 327 feels inadequate or weak in a Datsun, the likely culprit is a poor state of tune.  It could be worn out.... wiped cam, leaking valves, bad piston-rings, scored cylinders, parlously low compression.  The remedy is repair, not necessarily upgrade!  But if one desperately yearns for an upgrade, well, the block can accommodate a larger-stroke crank (3.75" stroke).  Get a new crank, rods and pistons.  The cylinder heads might be reused, if one's aim is low-end torque instead of high-rpm power.  But as others have explained, no replacement of isolated components is possible; there is a cascade, where swapping one part leads to swapping 5 more, and so forth.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm pretty sure that the fastest timeslip posted on hybridZ is from an old-school SBC. And an n/a SBC to boot! The SBC is far from dead. We think our LS is so great! Ever heard of a SB2? Now THAT is an engine. There are lots of ways to make hp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm pretty sure that the fastest timeslip posted on hybridZ is from an old-school SBC. And an n/a SBC to boot! The SBC is far from dead. We think our LS is so great! Ever heard of a SB2? Now THAT is an engine. There are lots of ways to make hp.

Yeah I remember the days when people were selling all the top shelf nascar used parts for sb2 for pennies, wish I had money back then to buy them, but I was like 15 lol. Cost of my swap:

 

$1500 -cx racing swap kit(full stainless exhaust, motor mounts and tranny mounts), they gave me a little discount.

-$1500 - sold old motor and trans

-$120 - sold old shifter and a relay

$2200 - Ly6 with 6l90e, all the wiring, pedal, etc

-$1300 - sold 6l90e

$2500 - TR6060 with driveshaft, clutch, flywheel, everything (wasnt able to use its driveshaft or master cylinder though)

$350 ls3 intake with injectors

-$140 sold truck intake with injectors

$400 - custom cam

$400 - new bearing, lifters, block cleaning, gaskets,etc (only if doing full rebuild)

$200 - new oil pan and pickup

$400 - hptuners (optional tuning software)

$125 - fuel sending unit

$30 - aluminum fuel line

$150 - hose fittings 

$275 -driveshaft (cheaper for non TR6060)

$130 - driveshaft adapter (only needed for tr6060)

$20 - 3 relays and some wire for the electrics (lots of spare wire comes from deleting stuff from original engine harness)

$450 - new speedhut speedo and tach (can make originals work but these are some very pretty gauges)

 

 

Total = $6070, and this is for a fresh rebuilt motor with 480hp, tuning software, and a top notch transmission. (Thought I was at $5k  :P before)

 

For my upcoming swap I'm using an auto, and like I mentioned before you can use your manual tranny still. I can reuse the extra fuel line and relays and tune it for free this time plus chop off about $2800 in tranny related costs, plus I'm not tearing the motor all the way down or using a custom cam (previous motor was built with the intention of turbocharging). Should be right at the $3k mark.

Edited by crapforum
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The cost will totally depend on how much time you want to spend finding the right deals on used parts, if you are in no rush a swap can be done fairly cheap if you're willing to wait for deals to pop up. when i did my swap i bought everything new except for the motor and transmission but i ended up rebuilding both. My swap was way more than $3500 but i have an ls2 with a strocker cam intake ported heads, fuel cell, aluminium radiator, custom tune, rebuilt t56, bought my mounts from jci, sanderson headers. My setup is made to handle more power than i have now so i have room to grow if ever i want to.

 

questions you need to ask yourself:

Do you want an aluminium block or iron block?

Do you want a 6 speed, 5 speed or automatic?

Do you want to upgrade you cooling system?

Are you going to tune the engine yourself or get a tuner?

is your fueling system good enough?

are you going to build your own mounts or get a kit?

are you going to rewire your harness yourself or get it done?

new driveshaft or shortened one?

drive by wire or drive by cable?

are you going to sell your old setup?

 

you have a running setup right now, if you wanna go ls i would suggest you get all the parts you need before taking your car apart over the course of a year i'm sure you could find good deals on any of those items. If you peace your swap together over the course of a year you might free more funds for the swap too. it's easier on the pocket book.

Edited by Datsun-EBZ
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, how much did your swap cost? That's the sub-topic, actually knowing the numbers.

ls2 with t56. $6500

stroker kit. $2600

cam, springs, chain, oil pump, lifter, trunion upgrade, gaskets. $2200

fast lsxr. $850

ported heads. $400

Tune $400

T56 rebuild. $1200

mcleod RXT $1200

master cylinder $80

Slave cylinder $80

Driveshaft $200

B&M shifter $200

corvette ls3 oil pan $300

wiring harness(done by me) $50

LS3 injectors $350

fuel cell with intank pump $900

fuel line $200

fuel filter $150

fuel regulator $200

fuel rails $200

Intake piping $160

Radiator with fans $300

Speedhut gauges with wideband $1200

Oil cooler $350

exhaust $400

 

I have around $20000 in mine could i have done it cheaper? yeah a lot cheaper, but i bought all new and didn't care much to wait for deals and i overkilled things but my setup is safe to handle a lot more power, you can boost a 5.3l truck engine a lot cheaper than what i have in mine but thats not what i wanted at the time. built it the way i wanted with the parts i wanted.

Edited by Datsun-EBZ
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The culture has changed.  20 years ago, when some of us were starting these swaps, the small-block (Chevy or Ford) was all that there was.  Fuel injection was a newfangled thing, that domestic OEMs had just recently figured out and made reliable, while the aftermarket was just starting to offer kludged "kits".  New it's LS-this and Coyote-that, with the classical blocks regarded as we once regarded Flatheads.

 

Still, when I go to my local car-show, the hotrods almost invariably have the classical engines.  The people building them are almost invariably more familiar with the classical engines.  If this is the community on which we draw, for advice, for parts, for camaraderie, then there's excellent reason to retain the classical engine, and to improve it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

small block chev engine is dead,avoid at all costs? what a statement.some one should let gm know that.from 1955 to 2011,they produced 100 million sbc engines and are still making them to this day.changing over to an ls motor and 6 speed for $3500 is a tall order.a freshened-up 327 with the right heads and cam in a 2400 pound car would work well.sounds like your car already has a lot of improvements done.build it safe and dependable and good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Refreshed 327:hone, rings, bearings,seals and gaskets, with edelbrock top-end kit. 4-speed is fine-I rarely use 5th on the track. 3.54 R200 diff until you stumble across a 3.36. Don't get crazy low profile tired but keep the diameter large to keep rpms down. Get one of those new helical LSDs out of the group buy or vendors forum, 39 spline stubs, Z31 CV kit or TTT 8.8 swap. Shitty paint cause nobody looks twice at a shiny car these days. You are golden.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm.... 240Z - 327 CID Chevy Small Block (SB) - 4 speed ... First I would check to make sure it's not a rare Scarab 240Z.  http://datsunforum.com/the-scarab-legend-the-original-hybrid-datsun-z/ 

 

If it is then you might want to consider not changing it.  If it is not a Scarab, was the motor installed using the preferred Jags That Run (JTR) method?  http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html 

 

Also, check the engine number to find out what 327 you have.  BTW, GM made 350 HP, 365 HP and 375 HP 327 motors.  http://www.gearheadgeek.com/ghgj/index.php/49-54-data/general-chevy-data/chevy-block-casting-s 

 

A Chevy 327 motor is very reliable and there are many parts available so you could get up to 400HP without going to crazy.  IMHO I think you should consider getting the motor rebuilt with a decent cam, aluminum heads and intake/carb setup.  If you don't want to, or for some reason can't rebuild the 327, another possible option is to buy a crate engine from GM, Jeg's or Summit. 

 

FYI, I have an old Vette 327 in my car and love it!  The whole thing only weighs about 2,500 lbs. and has close to 50 - 50 weight distribution.  It's plenty quick!

 

Small Block Chevy with Tri-Power

Photo8

 
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Nothing wrong with the worthless old school small block Chevy.  My race 240Z went 8.46 in the quarter  with one carb and gas, no turbos, nitrous , blower ect. Normaly asperated. My street Z, a 71 with the Scarab kit runs plenty strong with a 327 and 4 speed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was going to LS swap my car until I made a concrete list of what everything would cost, then leaving $750 for all the random nickle and dime stuff you invariably need to buy.  It was just more than I could swing with all the other stuff I was doing as well(wiring, flares, front suspension/brakes, wfritts 8.8 rear setup, fuel cell, etc).

 

Instead I spent $1500 on making the 350 that was already in it a much better motor(it was fresh from the 70's with an era performance cam and edelbrock intake).  I only have like 500 miles on it, but, Im overall happy with my choice.

 

The way I look at it is that I bought myself a few years to acquire all the parts to make the boosted LS setup I really want.

Edited by bramagedained
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...