endofzworld Posted July 9, 2016 Author Share Posted July 9, 2016 What am I measuring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 You don't seem to be measuring anything. There's no numbers. One thing that many people do when they swap parts is to compare the old to the new. You could have, and still could, compare(d) the old MC to the new one. Sometimes people have to swap the rods to get the new ones to work. Added a picture. With the pedal in the proper position, one way to get really close on the MC rod length is to adjust it until the clevis pin drops in to the hole easily. And a typical test for air in the system is to pump it up. If the system pumps up, in other words works better after pumping the pedal quickly, then there's air. The pumping compresses the bubble with new fluid. Anyway, good luck. Take some time and look at each piece and what it does. It really is a very simple system. A collection of simple concepts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 As well as comparing the push rods on your old M/Cylinder and the new one, check out the Slave cylinders Compare the two Slave cylinders side by side. There are two different types. Your car is a 1973. The Slave Cylinder changes to a self adjusting style ( 30620-U7000 ) from 07/72 on-wards. The self adjusting Slave cylinders have a non-threaded rod and are different from the earlier style ( 30620-28502 used up to 06/72) that have a threaded adjusting rod and a ball nut. The clutch forks are also different and have to be matched to the appropriate Slave cylinder. The early and late slave cylinders are not interchangeable... although you can bolt them on... the clutch throw will not be right. If memory serves me correct, the later style self adjusting slave cylinder bodies are physically longer. Take some pictures of the old Slave cylinder and the new Slave cylinder and post them up. I've seen this before when parts vendors have supplied the incorrect clutch hydraulic parts. You should check everything side by side to make sure they are exactly the same. Of course if you have changed Transmissions, you may have a different clutch fork on the Transmission. Early style clutch forks have a hole in them that the threaded adjusting rod fits through. The Ball nut seats in the fork. The later Clutch forks for the self adjusting style clutch do not have a hole in the end of the clutch fork. The clutch slave cylinder push-rod is non-threaded and seats directly into the closed end cup of the clutch fork. As previously mentioned, these are very simple systems. Not much can go wrong, but there are subtle changes in parts that can mess you up. And a proper bleeding procedure is all important. You either need two people, or a pressure bleeder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
endofzworld Posted July 11, 2016 Author Share Posted July 11, 2016 Thanks for the tip! I did swap to a 5 speed and I'll have to look at the rod lengths tonight. I also read something somwhere about when you bleed the system it will "zero" itself. Since I wasn't building pressure in the pedal until after I adjusted the rod all the way out, I wonder if I bleed it again and put the bump stop in it will fix it? Maybe...? Hopefully thank makes sense. Just to clarify I can get the car in to gear now and it's drivable but the pedal sticks out too far and engages the clutch too soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 (edited) Okay so today I replaced my brake booster and stupidly I disassembled the clutch pedal before I realised it was the wrong one. So I put it back together and finished the brake booster. Went to go for a test drive and it won't go inow to gear. Clutch ras I did swap to a 5 speed Did you do these two things at the same time? That would change everything. Edited July 11, 2016 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
endofzworld Posted July 11, 2016 Author Share Posted July 11, 2016 Did the swap first and everything worked well up until I changed the brake booster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 Well then, carry on with the clutch control system, from pedal to fork. If it worked before you should be able to make it work again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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