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To weld or to epoxy?


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#1 Perfect240z

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Posted 02 July 2016 - 02:31 PM

So I trimmed out the rust on my rear wheel arches, now I had to remove also parts of the rear wheel well area because the rust went through those as well. I was going to try and weld the rest before repairing the actual fender but found more rust higher up. Shop now that I found more I have to cut out would it possible to use some epoxy to reattach too close up the fender well or does it have to be welded?

#2 kyle319

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Posted 02 July 2016 - 09:14 PM

Kind of hard to envision exactly where you're talking about. When I did my flares I welding everything back up. I've read that the whole area is structural so based on that I would recommend welding. Thats the approach I took anyways. 



#3 Perfect240z

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Posted 02 July 2016 - 09:41 PM

Kind of hard to envision exactly where you're talking about. When I did my flares I welding everything back up. I've read that the whole area is structural so based on that I would recommend welding. Thats the approach I took anyways. 

I'll try and take a photo.  There is structural adhesive available, and it would only be just on the wheel well arch area, but I figured Id ask about it.  



#4 Perfect240z

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Posted 02 July 2016 - 10:33 PM

Here's a couple photos I could focus on the rust I'll have to cut more out. Since I will have to cut more I won't be able to fold it and weld it like it would normally be done.  Figured I could use the panel bonding method with structural adhesive then it would still be bonded and I wouldn't have to try and weld higher up.  Only in the rear wheel arch area is needed.

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#5 RebekahsZ

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Posted 03 July 2016 - 05:36 AM

Get some help from a hot rod shop and have that welded. Structural adhesive is good for binding panels that touch one another, not filling holes. My fab guy here in Florence could fix that no prob....when he got around to it. These guys tend to be "artists" and most of them work at an artist's pace. But I can't do what they do, so I'm used to long delays.

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#6 Perfect240z

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Posted 03 July 2016 - 09:53 AM

I wouldn't use it to fill that hole, I would use it with those panel bonding pieces from Eastwood to keep certain parts of the panel together.  That hole was a seam sealer that fell out from old age, that I will have to fill but I won't be using the structural adhesive. Just FYI to the big hole you see.



#7 seattlejester

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Posted 03 July 2016 - 11:47 PM

"Shop now that I found more I have to cut out would it possible to use some epoxy to reattach too close up the fender well or does it have to be welded?"

 

That was kind of difficult to read.

 

Do you mean you want to use epoxy to close up the fender well? Or do you mean you want to use a patch panel to span the gap and use epoxy to attach the patch panel?

 

If you are going to do flares, then it really doesn't matter, welded would be the best option to close it up. You can find the cheaper/shortcut answers on your own. 

 

If you want to keep the stock body lines, then you are going to cut out everything with rust, find a donor piece, transfer the cut line, then weld everything back in. Epoxy really doesn't come into the equation.



#8 Perfect240z

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Posted 04 July 2016 - 09:06 PM

"Shop now that I found more I have to cut out would it possible to use some epoxy to reattach too close up the fender well or does it have to be welded?"

That was kind of difficult to read.

Do you mean you want to use epoxy to close up the fender well? Or do you mean you want to use a patch panel to span the gap and use epoxy to attach the patch panel?

If you are going to do flares, then it really doesn't matter, welded would be the best option to close it up. You can find the cheaper/shortcut answers on your own.

If you want to keep the stock body lines, then you are going to cut out everything with rust, find a donor piece, transfer the cut line, then weld everything back in. Epoxy really doesn't come into the equation.


I meant "So now that I found more rust" don't know why auto correct decided to add extra letters haha. Anyways I was thinking of a quicker solution. Since the inner fender well is now shorter then the outer fender I can't do the slicing and folding like you would normally do. I'll have to find a way to weld in there all the way around. I was thinking of using the structural adhesive with those panel repair kits to reattach it that way. Just wanted to know what people thought of the adhesive idea since our cars or unibody.

#9 seattlejester

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Posted 05 July 2016 - 09:47 AM

Gotcha, so you were thinking of patching using new material from the outside in. I would say bridging the gap with a piece of metal welded in would be better. Trying to bond two non flat panels in awkward planes can be difficult since you can't use clamps to hold both planes. 



#10 rturbo 930

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Posted 05 July 2016 - 10:25 AM

So are you going to put flares on, or are you just repairing rust on stock fenders?


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#11 Perfect240z

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Posted 05 July 2016 - 02:43 PM

I'm almost 100% sure I'll be doing flares now.  I've cut so much that I would be doing a lot more repairs that will prolong my build.  I will have to repair some of the putter fender but not as much if I run flares. 



#12 RebekahsZ

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Posted 06 July 2016 - 04:14 AM

Sounds good!

1972 240z, purchased in 1991 for $900. Bone stock LS2/T56/DBW from 2006 GTO, swap completed in 2011. 400rwhp/435 rwtq. 2400# minus driver. JCI swap, Mantic ER2 clutch kit, JTR headers, single exhaust, Borla muffler, MGW shifter, M2 Differentials shortened Z31 CV axles, Z31 CLSD R200, Chequered Flag Racing billet stubs and companion flanges. MSD 2-step, Hurst roll control, both operated from switches on clutch pedal. 9" Hoosier drag slicks on Weld Draglites, 245/45/16 Hoosier A6/R6 on 16X8+10 Rota RBR. 225/250 sectioned coilovers, Koni 8610-1437RACE shocks, DP and EMI camber plates, MM shortened rear control arms, TTT front control arms, poly and aluminum bushings. Top speeds: Ohio Mile 174mph, C/GMS class record holder, best 1/8 mile 6.96 at 100mph, best 1/4-mile 11.0 at 126mph, best 60' 1.43, best 1/2-mile 148mph at GA 1/2-mile. Home Track-Jake's Dragway, Moulton, AL. SCCA autocross club - TVR, Huntsville, AL. Lets race!





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