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AC system copper flared lines


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#1 Samurai7one

Samurai7one
  • LocationPearl River, Louisiana

Posted 05 July 2016 - 07:30 PM

I couldn't find a forum for this exactly, so I'll try here.
Are the flared copper fittings on the 280z ac lines reusable? Will 134a leak through or should I use r12a (not r12) instead? They seem like they may not reseal well, anyone have any experience with this, and hopefully some tips?
Thank you!

#2 TimZ

TimZ
  • LocationDearborn, MI

Posted 06 July 2016 - 09:45 AM

I couldn't find a forum for this exactly, so I'll try here.
Are the flared copper fittings on the 280z ac lines reusable? Will 134a leak through or should I use r12a (not r12) instead? They seem like they may not reseal well, anyone have any experience with this, and hopefully some tips?
Thank you!

I converted my system to R134 several years ago and it's still going strong - the copper lines have not been a problem..  You will want to flush the entire system to get the old oil out (I used mineral oil as I recall), and replace the dryer and pressure switch with r134 compatible ones.  

 

Also use the ester compressor oil, not the PAG stuff - it's designed to be more compatible with r12 to r134 conversions.  If you decide to use any additives like "stop leak" or whatever, check to be sure that it does not contain PAG oil - it's not compatible with ester.


Edited by TimZ, 06 July 2016 - 09:48 AM.

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#3 cgsheen

cgsheen
  • LocationArizona

Posted 06 July 2016 - 11:47 AM

I couldn't find a forum for this exactly, so I'll try here.
Are the flared copper fittings on the 280z ac lines reusable? Will 134a leak through or should I use r12a (not r12) instead? They seem like they may not reseal well, anyone have any experience with this, and hopefully some tips?
Thank you!

 

I'm an old school plumber & HVAC tech so I actually prefer copper refer tubing with standard flare fittings to the o-ring stuff they use on newer cars.  Done properly, they hold tight and are easy to replace or repair.  Make sure both sides of the flare on the tube are clean and use a little or your refrigerant oil on both surfaces (interior and exterior of the tubing end).  Snug the flare nut up - always use two wrenches - and don't over-tighten.  The tubing and flare fittings will last nearly forever if they're not abused.

 

After you get some pressure in the system, you can check for leaks with soapy water in a spray bottle.  They make commercial products for gas leak detection too, but some "Dawn" (or other liquid dish soap) mixed with water works just as well.  Spray the joints and look for bubbles...


1974 "Early" 260Z: '83 L28ET - F31 ECU MAF Coil TPS - T04E - FMIC - 400cc Injectors - MTX-L wideband - NIStune enabled! - '83 5 speed - coilovers - Big Brakes up front - Sakura Garage, Tempe, AZ


#4 Samurai7one

Samurai7one
  • LocationPearl River, Louisiana

Posted 06 July 2016 - 05:23 PM

Thanks for the info. I thought this was going to be a disaster but now I feel better about it.

#5 Samurai7one

Samurai7one
  • LocationPearl River, Louisiana

Posted 06 July 2016 - 05:27 PM

I have the system in pieces right now, so flushing the individual components is easy but how can I effectively flush the compressor (to remove oil)?

#6 Sam280Z

Sam280Z
  • LocationBaton Rouge, La

Posted 07 July 2016 - 03:12 AM

Search for "flare fitting gasket".
They work.

#7 Samurai7one

Samurai7one
  • LocationPearl River, Louisiana

Posted 19 July 2016 - 06:29 PM

Everything worked out great! Just cleaned up the ends with scotchbrite then flushed everything out. I ended up using r12a Red Tek refrigerant, R12 & 134 compatible ester oil. Been blowing nice and cold for the last week. Fingers crossed that it stays that way. Thanks for the input guys!




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