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makaofox

Makaofox 2jz NA-T swap

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Sounds like you are getting a constant power signal sent to the starter. It could be something as simple as a bad ignition switch or something more complicated like a short or a bad plug. 

 

I would really refrain from hooking up the ECU until you are sure your wiring is doing what you want it to do. I know someone cooked their ecu in this section from mixing up one wire.

 

Did you tap the stock rail for AN fittings? Or did you use an after market fuel rail?

 

Also I would use the zip tie separator method on the braided lines, it will keep them from rubbing together and fraying the braid. I would also advise to clamp it to the chassis every foot or so. I had a knocking noise that I finally traced to the fuel lines bouncing off the transmission in a part that they sagged.

 

Progress looks good!

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makaofox    2

I figured out the wiring issues after really really REALLY looking at the wiring diagram. Black with white is the switched ignition power, while white with red is constant. So hooked everything up and seems to work. The gauges ill focus on later that shouldnt be hard. I was having issues connecting to my AEM V1 ecu. Turns out the cord i was using was a gigaware cord that was out of date to windows 10. Now its connected, it was interesting exploring the program.

 

You are right about the ECU I should have disconnected it while doing all this but I didnt, hopefully all is well, it still connected. Every time i did something I turned off the battery. 
 

Its a driftmotion fuel rail so it says 14mm but I was thinking it meant just the bottom of the injector its ok, I ordered new orings which should be here tomorrow. 

 

Good call on the zipties I have cushions on them every so often they seem tight but ill make sure they arent rubbing. 

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makaofox    2

So everything is basically done. Waiting for a Tune to start it up, been waiting for over a week already. My only real issue is the clutch its way to low to the floor.

 

Anyone have experience with collins adapters? 

 

I have stock 76 280z master and stock 350z slave (new) with -3an line probably 3 feet long. I thought I bled it enough but not sure if its a bleeding issue, or something else. Im hoping its not a fork issue, throw out bearing or even a pivot ball issue. I really dont wanna drop that heavy trans. 

 

The slave seems to move about 1/4 of travel. The pedal goes down several inches and about 2in before the floor it engages. 

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Geno750    0

Might just need more pedal adjustment. You're using the Collins kit with their flywheel correct? You should be able to see inside the clutch fork hole to check the engagement of the throwout bearing. It should be firmly against the splines of the pressure plate.

Edited by Geno750

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makaofox    2

^ seems like it is an adjustment issue. I think I have the pedal as far as the stock master will let me go. If I get the car running ill use it that way but ordering a summit racing one which has a bit of a longer rod that ill trim down to what I need.

 

On a side note tried making a start up map and that didnt work. Car kept cranking and couldnt turn over. Hopefully with a real tune from a professional it turns over, other wise its an issue on my end. Sounded pretty good cranking though! :D

 

Another side note the gauges WERE wired correctly. I noticed a plug was loose when I was removing the whole dash to inspect my wiring. So I made things a bit better cleaned it up and during install ill make sure everything is connected nice and tight. Other wise if it still doesnt work ill have to break out the volt meter and see why its not getting power, mainly for the illumination aspect of the gauges. The gauges seem to work, not sure till im up and running. 

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Ooh exciting!

 

I imagine the AEM system has a test mode. Would be a matter of finding out if all the outputs are working, then it is a matter of finding out if all the outputs are working at the right time. Is the ECU on during cranking?

 

I know that the way I had my car wired when I bypassed the ballast resistor the first time I was basically spinning up the motor to speed and then the ignition would kick in after I was letting go of the cranking key. Took a while to figure that one out. 

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makaofox    2

Some good news! All my cranking issues were due to the igniter not being ground to the chassis. I just had it velcroed on the trans tunnel, so when I bolted it down boom spark and she wanted to start! Tomorrow ill hopefully start it and it idles and maybe even drives. 

 

I will take pics!

Only real issue  left is after taking the dash off again, reinstalling making sure the wires were the correct ones connected the gauge lights still dont come on . Not sure where that issue is but def will have to volt test it, my assumption is since I took the gauges off and left the plugs hanging it may not get power. I may have to go straight to the big plugs with those  wires and see if it works. If not then could be something im missing for the gauges themselves. With it getting dark so much sooner this will forsure need to be fixed so I can do night time motor break ins!

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makaofox    2

So got the motor running but had to deal with leaking oil filter, leaking fuel fittings and leaking coolant sensor. Coolant temp adapter was stripped but used some JB weld to rethread it and some RTV. Hopefully works out. Only going to use water till I know it doesnt leak. 

 

No Idle air control valve sucks. I dealt with it on the L28, it doesnt hold idle until it warms up. So im hoping, I havent gotten it to temp while dealing with leaks. Sure sounds good, also have to check and calibrate timing. 

 

Still dealing with no back light for the speedhut gauges. I wanna say at this point my high beam and hazards light up on the gauges and the needle pointer lights up BUT I think my stock dimmer is conflicting with the aftermarket dimmer switch. So since they both are on, the needle dims slightly but maybe the power of two dimmers isnt giving it the power needed to light up the gauges. Not too sure, I plan on removing the stock dimmer once I figure out how to remove it without taking the dash off again. 

 

Btw the Milwaukee is the way I plan on keeping warm lol!

 

Also brought a vented hood from a local to try and keep engine bay temps low. 

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makaofox    2

I do the main thing that stopped me was finding a decent 7m cps. the 7m makes it really easy to convert but with them being used not new anymore its tough finding them in nj atleast. I saw a few but people wanted to sell the whole motor. Eventually ill convert it though, possibly just do a crank pulley mod or something.

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makaofox    2

Awesome that would be great. I would for sure start collecting parts after that. Thought about going with the mojo perf kit. I used it in my GTR and loved it. Just the cps would make life easier than the other options.

 

On a good note, finally got the gauges to light up. I hooked it up the the GREEN/WHITE wire from the side marker lights. The RED/BLUE wire for whatever reason was just not giving it the juice.  

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makaofox    2

Good stuff to know.

 

Had to redo my exhaust to an oval system now I dont scrape...as much lol. I will still scrape on driveways and most likely hard highway dips. Not a big deal better than than the oil pan, gas tank or trans.

 

Question taking my car for a dyno tune/ break in on dyno.

 

Anyone ever broke in a motor on the dyno? I needed a tune and the dyno is going to help me get there but while im there might as well put some miles on the motor on the dyno in a controlled environment. Just wanted some input/ feedback on experiences. I broke in the L28 on the street but took forever to drive 2k miles since its just a weekend car.

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makaofox    2

Finally took the car to Evans Tuning in Mt. Bethel PA. He is a very good tuner im happy with him. However, I do have to retune it. We had to deal with lots of trouble shooting and the car would break up after about 7psi. So I ordered MSD ss blaster coil and the 6a ignition box with tach adapter. That should solve my spark issues and my goal of 15psi. I also needed a spring for my Tial BOV as the one thats in it is too stiff. I need the black spring which is the softest they have. I also needed the o-ring for the Tial. So far the car is driveable and its amazing. Way faster than the L28 of course. Still scared to really get into boost. The 6sp is great but not loving the short throw shifter I brought, im sure I just need to get used to it. 

 

Hopefully once the parts come in I can get it retuned asap.

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makaofox    2

I honestly cant remember but ill dig around my files and see if I can find the company. It was a OEM shifter modified to shorter throw. 

 

Mini update:

Drove it around runs a smidge lean off idle but out of idle and actual driving its not bad. Noticed oil pressure was alarmingly low (2js tend to run at about 5psi or so t idle) So decided to do an oil change. Went from 5w30 to 10w40 and it improved oil pressure. Since it was broken in there were plenty of metallic flakes, hopefully improves now. Did find a rubber piece in the oil, not sure if the oil pan was entirely clean or a piece from the head maybe dip stick grommet. I do have a vac leak of some sort as it stalls the car at a light or a stop. I think from the Tial BOV. I ordered the softer spring and O-ring, so I will monitor that once the parts come in.

 

Other wise the car runs but still needs refining. 

 

Any ideas on improving fuel tank sloosh? I stuffed it with the foam but left the center open because of the float level for the gauge. So the gauge goes all over the place. Are there better systems or foam that wont interfere with the float.

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I'm assuming you are using a fuel cell?

 

You just kind of get used to it. Really you only need to know when you start the car or are cruising. When you are on the throttle all the fuel goes to the back if you have a bottom sump so not a problem when you are breaking hard it might be bad if you are really low on fuel.

 

If it is bothersome you can add a baffled box to keep the fuel level more consistent around the sender, but performance wise that won't help in any way and would require quite a bit of fabrication.

 

Wouldn't you want a stronger spring for a loose BOV?

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makaofox    2

I was searching and found a tube style fuel sender which is great, but expensive $100. Compared to a float style its a tube and wont jump around as much.

 

I was talking with the company that sold the fuel cell and to modify it/ install baffles its $450 for a new tank which isnt terrible as the tank alone is $250 without options. I have the foam in there but ive heard some stories how it will soon break apart with regular fuel.

 

Well according to the tuner he wants to tune it with a softer spring and have it open. Right now it barely opens even under wot. 

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Posted (edited)

I have the tube style, it has a float in it as well and will still fluctuate quite a bit.

Center gauge in the group of 3 is the fuel.

 

Have the blow off valve open? That would be a massive boost leak in the system. Do you mean the wastegate? 

 

Pretty confused lol, when I had a vacuum leak the engine would rev up as it was getting more air. So the car stalling would kind of point towards a bad IACV or if you are not running an IACV then  the throttle body stop. When my car without the IACV was stalling I just turned the idle stop 1/2 a turn out and raised my idle from 600-900 or so and that solved the problem.

Edited by seattlejester

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makaofox    2

Nice cruising! Well yours does fluctuate but mine goes from full to empty to 1/4 and stops at the last point so its really hard to tell whats in the tank. I figure a tube style would also allow me to put more foam inside the tank since the middle is exposed due to the float arm being in the way.

 

No I dont mean WG I was told bov. I really didnt understand why he wanted it that way also but who am I to argue a professional tuner lol. I purchased the spring he preferred and I will install it and he will  have to re-tune it the way he wants it to act. The bov didnt have an o-ring on the vband so that did have a leak but im not sure for his reasoning on the spring, maybe he means open with some throttle as opposed to not opening at all. 

 

I suspect the no iac is doing something but when I ran the car at his shop it was fine. When i blip the throttle it wants to stall out but it idles perfectly at 850 so cant go to high on idle.  Im waiting for the parts to really see what happens afterwards.

 

BTW your AFR's are perfect! mine is a bit lean idling and off throttle but on throttle its solid.

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After reading about the foam deterioration wasn't too happy with it. People talking about it gumming up prepump filters and leaving them stranded and such, but if your sender is a float type then indeed a tube type would let you cram a lot more foam into it. Although mine will read 0 when I still have 3 gallons or so in it.

 

That is odd, never heard of that before. Usually the BOV are pretty easy to overcome and the boost keeps them shut when you are on power, and the vacuum helps pull them open when you are off. If it is too light then it would be a boost leak, if it is too heavy then you it might not open and you could get compressor stall at most. Would be unfortunate if he meant a smaller wastegate spring and just got confused. 

 

I mean even professionals get confused. I work with doctors and they make silly mistakes just like the rest of us. Keep us updated, curious to see what happens.

 

Regardless, glad to see you got a tuner working on the car! Oh and managed to fit the treadstone manifold with the turbo.

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makaofox    2

I ordered a 6in tube when my tank is 7in deep. So that 1 inch will leave 2 gallons of fuel so when it reads empty ill really still have 2 gallons which is good. So that must be what you are dealing with. I did the math with some formula. I am scared for the foam but for this year ill go with the foam and then over the winter modify the tank with baffles.

 

He did clarify bov not wg because i did ask. But the smaller spring I dont think will be a big deal but once installed ill start the car and see how it acts before I install the MSD coil and ignition 6a box.

 

Nice! Good job, i really liked that manifold but running a T3 turbo just wasnt going to work with it. 

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makaofox    2

Hey guys any input would be appreciated.

 Im trying to install MSD 6a with the tach adapter and SS blaster coil anyone have experience with MSD install? All the threads I searched are from 2004-2006 so all the pics are broken.

It seemed straight forward and potentially may have fried the msd unit but this is what I have going on.

here are some of the diagrams 
http://documents.msdperformance.com/6201.pdf PAGE 10 the first diagram 
http://documents.msdperformance.com/8910eis.pdf NEW DIAGRAM FOR TACH ADAPTER

Following the tach adapter I accidentally had the tach wire on the positive and potentially could have fried the unit since the lines were crossed. BUT The unit has power and when it cranks the power goes out. Potentially also had to crimp the distributor wire might have crushed it or did a poor job not too sure, im more concerned with the wiring.

My confusion is (following tach diagram) I have BOTH reds hooked up to where the ignition coil harness positive which for me is black with red stripe. The black line hooked to the "negative" of the coil for me is purple. My confusion is should I leave the black hooked up and the red lines hooked up to a switch and leave the coil harness as is with just the negative hooked up. Any help would be appreciated.

I need to get this sorted out so I can go back to Evans Tuning. He said this was preventing my car from full potential, Spark blow out after 10psi.

 

Thanks guys! What I plan to do is take everything off and just have the SS coil and go from there.

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