Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Makaofox 2jz NA-T swap

2jz na-t 2jzge 350z trans

  • Please log in to reply
38 replies to this topic

#21 makaofox

makaofox

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 253 posts
  • LocationNew Jeresy

Posted 22 September 2016 - 04:06 PM

I did see the ones from the UK. Saw this old vintage way of defrosting CASCO VINTAGE WINDSHIELD DEFROSTER UNIT "SLUSHBUSTER" L726. pretty neat and its kind of cheap. Going to continue searching.

 

Thanks Grayson. Just did wrinkle coat on my intake manifold, came out shitty but overall im happy with it. Apparently wrinkle coat has heat dispersion capabilities that also looks nice! 



#22 makaofox

makaofox

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 253 posts
  • LocationNew Jeresy

Posted 13 October 2016 - 04:50 AM

Another update:

 

I made the down pipe and exhaust. Heat wrap sucks! But needed to be done. Working on throttle cable which isnt difficult but dont have the right style of fitting to fit on the throttle body. Wiring is hooked up. 

 

Anyone have experience with Boost controller Prosec? Curious the mac valve has 3 ports. I used 2 one for pressure ie turbo or manifold and one for wastegate. This leaves one port open and its a 1/8pt which isnt in stores. So do I leave that port open or block it off? The instructions dont clearify? Unless I missed it.

 

Also experiencing wiring issues in my 76 if anyone has any input. My issue is I have constant power with no key on. My gauges turn and stay on, but have no back light even with lights on, my car wants to crank over when the battery positive terminal is connected. Also not sure if its an issue yet but I didnt hear fuel pump prime and the ecu Aem v1 wont connect to laptop. Those issues may go away when the constant power is resolved but not sure where to start. 



#23 Ereschkigal

Ereschkigal

    Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 91 posts
  • LocationGermany

Posted 13 October 2016 - 07:17 AM

What sizes are your gauges?



#24 makaofox

makaofox

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 253 posts
  • LocationNew Jeresy

Posted 13 October 2016 - 01:13 PM

I think 4.5in and 2 1/16 from speed hut. Got the speedo gps thats how I figure they are all on btw.



#25 makaofox

makaofox

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 253 posts
  • LocationNew Jeresy

Posted 15 October 2016 - 05:38 PM

Created another topic to focus on my wiring woes. Another bad day fuel injectors leak! Seems like I ordered 11mm tops when I should have gotten 14mm so fuel ruined my nice valve cover paint, but it didnt ruin the wrinkle coat!  Atleast the motor doesnt want to crank over. Moved the wire to the correct spot and its good now. 

 

Worked on the throttle cable just have to get some brackets and bolt it in. I couldnt find a T style ferrule so I modded the bolt it came with and gorilla glued the wire to it. I think it should hold it said impact tough lol. We shall see.

 

Still waiting for my drive shaft from drive shaft shop, hopefully comes in this week. 

 

On the small list to do:

 

Bleed brakes

bleed clutch

add transmission oil

add coolant

wire vacuum lines to greedy profec, wastegate, and BOV

fix fuel leaks, saw one by fuel pump, crush washer probably isnt tight enough.



#26 seattlejester

seattlejester

    Totally Addicted

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1860 posts
  • LocationBellevue, WASHINGTON

Posted 17 October 2016 - 09:54 AM

Sounds like you are getting a constant power signal sent to the starter. It could be something as simple as a bad ignition switch or something more complicated like a short or a bad plug. 

 

I would really refrain from hooking up the ECU until you are sure your wiring is doing what you want it to do. I know someone cooked their ecu in this section from mixing up one wire.

 

Did you tap the stock rail for AN fittings? Or did you use an after market fuel rail?

 

Also I would use the zip tie separator method on the braided lines, it will keep them from rubbing together and fraying the braid. I would also advise to clamp it to the chassis every foot or so. I had a knocking noise that I finally traced to the fuel lines bouncing off the transmission in a part that they sagged.

 

Progress looks good!



#27 makaofox

makaofox

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 253 posts
  • LocationNew Jeresy

Posted 18 October 2016 - 06:18 AM

I figured out the wiring issues after really really REALLY looking at the wiring diagram. Black with white is the switched ignition power, while white with red is constant. So hooked everything up and seems to work. The gauges ill focus on later that shouldnt be hard. I was having issues connecting to my AEM V1 ecu. Turns out the cord i was using was a gigaware cord that was out of date to windows 10. Now its connected, it was interesting exploring the program.

 

You are right about the ECU I should have disconnected it while doing all this but I didnt, hopefully all is well, it still connected. Every time i did something I turned off the battery. 
 

Its a driftmotion fuel rail so it says 14mm but I was thinking it meant just the bottom of the injector its ok, I ordered new orings which should be here tomorrow. 

 

Good call on the zipties I have cushions on them every so often they seem tight but ill make sure they arent rubbing. 



#28 makaofox

makaofox

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 253 posts
  • LocationNew Jeresy

Posted 29 October 2016 - 12:58 PM

So everything is basically done. Waiting for a Tune to start it up, been waiting for over a week already. My only real issue is the clutch its way to low to the floor.

 

Anyone have experience with collins adapters? 

 

I have stock 76 280z master and stock 350z slave (new) with -3an line probably 3 feet long. I thought I bled it enough but not sure if its a bleeding issue, or something else. Im hoping its not a fork issue, throw out bearing or even a pivot ball issue. I really dont wanna drop that heavy trans. 

 

The slave seems to move about 1/4 of travel. The pedal goes down several inches and about 2in before the floor it engages. 



#29 Geno750

Geno750

    Regular

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 87 posts
  • LocationDestin, FL

Posted 30 October 2016 - 08:45 AM

Might just need more pedal adjustment. You're using the Collins kit with their flywheel correct? You should be able to see inside the clutch fork hole to check the engagement of the throwout bearing. It should be firmly against the splines of the pressure plate.

Edited by Geno750, 30 October 2016 - 08:50 AM.


#30 makaofox

makaofox

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 253 posts
  • LocationNew Jeresy

Posted 30 October 2016 - 02:35 PM

^ seems like it is an adjustment issue. I think I have the pedal as far as the stock master will let me go. If I get the car running ill use it that way but ordering a summit racing one which has a bit of a longer rod that ill trim down to what I need.

 

On a side note tried making a start up map and that didnt work. Car kept cranking and couldnt turn over. Hopefully with a real tune from a professional it turns over, other wise its an issue on my end. Sounded pretty good cranking though! :D

 

Another side note the gauges WERE wired correctly. I noticed a plug was loose when I was removing the whole dash to inspect my wiring. So I made things a bit better cleaned it up and during install ill make sure everything is connected nice and tight. Other wise if it still doesnt work ill have to break out the volt meter and see why its not getting power, mainly for the illumination aspect of the gauges. The gauges seem to work, not sure till im up and running. 



#31 seattlejester

seattlejester

    Totally Addicted

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1860 posts
  • LocationBellevue, WASHINGTON

Posted 30 October 2016 - 11:35 PM

Ooh exciting!

 

I imagine the AEM system has a test mode. Would be a matter of finding out if all the outputs are working, then it is a matter of finding out if all the outputs are working at the right time. Is the ECU on during cranking?

 

I know that the way I had my car wired when I bypassed the ballast resistor the first time I was basically spinning up the motor to speed and then the ignition would kick in after I was letting go of the cranking key. Took a while to figure that one out. 



#32 makaofox

makaofox

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 253 posts
  • LocationNew Jeresy

Posted 02 November 2016 - 06:46 PM

Some good news! All my cranking issues were due to the igniter not being ground to the chassis. I just had it velcroed on the trans tunnel, so when I bolted it down boom spark and she wanted to start! Tomorrow ill hopefully start it and it idles and maybe even drives. 

 

I will take pics!

Only real issue  left is after taking the dash off again, reinstalling making sure the wires were the correct ones connected the gauge lights still dont come on . Not sure where that issue is but def will have to volt test it, my assumption is since I took the gauges off and left the plugs hanging it may not get power. I may have to go straight to the big plugs with those  wires and see if it works. If not then could be something im missing for the gauges themselves. With it getting dark so much sooner this will forsure need to be fixed so I can do night time motor break ins!



#33 makaofox

makaofox

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 253 posts
  • LocationNew Jeresy

Posted 05 November 2016 - 10:07 AM

So got the motor running but had to deal with leaking oil filter, leaking fuel fittings and leaking coolant sensor. Coolant temp adapter was stripped but used some JB weld to rethread it and some RTV. Hopefully works out. Only going to use water till I know it doesnt leak. 

 

No Idle air control valve sucks. I dealt with it on the L28, it doesnt hold idle until it warms up. So im hoping, I havent gotten it to temp while dealing with leaks. Sure sounds good, also have to check and calibrate timing. 

 

Still dealing with no back light for the speedhut gauges. I wanna say at this point my high beam and hazards light up on the gauges and the needle pointer lights up BUT I think my stock dimmer is conflicting with the aftermarket dimmer switch. So since they both are on, the needle dims slightly but maybe the power of two dimmers isnt giving it the power needed to light up the gauges. Not too sure, I plan on removing the stock dimmer once I figure out how to remove it without taking the dash off again. 

 

Btw the Milwaukee is the way I plan on keeping warm lol!

 

Also brought a vented hood from a local to try and keep engine bay temps low. 

Attached Files



#34 Geno750

Geno750

    Regular

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 87 posts
  • LocationDestin, FL

Posted 05 November 2016 - 10:49 AM

Do you have plans to delete the distributor? It's fairly straight forward, especially since you're running a stand alone. http://www.supraforu...s/347719?page=1

#35 makaofox

makaofox

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 253 posts
  • LocationNew Jeresy

Posted 05 November 2016 - 11:53 AM

I do the main thing that stopped me was finding a decent 7m cps. the 7m makes it really easy to convert but with them being used not new anymore its tough finding them in nj atleast. I saw a few but people wanted to sell the whole motor. Eventually ill convert it though, possibly just do a crank pulley mod or something.



#36 Geno750

Geno750

    Regular

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 87 posts
  • LocationDestin, FL

Posted 05 November 2016 - 12:01 PM

I'll check and see if I've got one. My dad is a purist with an 87 turbo supra. He's got a second motor with a spun bearing, should have the cps still.

#37 makaofox

makaofox

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 253 posts
  • LocationNew Jeresy

Posted 05 November 2016 - 01:50 PM

Awesome that would be great. I would for sure start collecting parts after that. Thought about going with the mojo perf kit. I used it in my GTR and loved it. Just the cps would make life easier than the other options.

 

On a good note, finally got the gauges to light up. I hooked it up the the GREEN/WHITE wire from the side marker lights. The RED/BLUE wire for whatever reason was just not giving it the juice.  



#38 Geno750

Geno750

    Regular

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 87 posts
  • LocationDestin, FL

Posted 05 November 2016 - 02:00 PM

The mojo kit is nice, but I'm not a big fan of the lSX coils. There are kits that provide a bracket for IGN-1A coils, which are more reliable. Induction performance sells them. This is the same coil as the AEM "smart" coil.

#39 makaofox

makaofox

    Always Here

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 253 posts
  • LocationNew Jeresy

Posted 16 November 2016 - 06:58 PM

Good stuff to know.

 

Had to redo my exhaust to an oval system now I dont scrape...as much lol. I will still scrape on driveways and most likely hard highway dips. Not a big deal better than than the oil pan, gas tank or trans.

 

Question taking my car for a dyno tune/ break in on dyno.

 

Anyone ever broke in a motor on the dyno? I needed a tune and the dyno is going to help me get there but while im there might as well put some miles on the motor on the dyno in a controlled environment. Just wanted some input/ feedback on experiences. I broke in the L28 on the street but took forever to drive 2k miles since its just a weekend car.







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: 2jz, na-t, 2jzge, 350z trans

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users